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pretty sure i blew my transmission

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casperfast

15+ Year Contributor
793
10
Sep 25, 2006
Salem, Oregon
so on Sunday i took the talon to woodburn dragstrip for my first time. i am NOT happy with my times or the failure on my third pass. i just recently (less than 50 miles before) changed my trans fluid and filter. then before i hit the track i installed my blue wire mod ( with relay and resistors, done correctly) . the car was shifting very quickly and smooth with the mod enabled. but at the end of the track on my third pass i heard what i can best describe as my cooling fan rubbing on something. and i make the turn at the end of the track hearing this noise i thought something was just rubbing, until i get back on the throttle to return to staging and the engine just revs up. i pull over and i have no forward or reverse motion. poped the hood and hear a loud clacking from the bellhousing area. so i thought i might have damaged the flex plate. except for an odd smell (like clutches almost). got the car towed home and pulled the inspection cover. engine starts fine, runs fine, no visible damage to flexplate. tc moving. so i pulled the passenger front suspension off, out comes the axle, no spline damage, inside diff looks all good. drained fluid, not chuncks, drained t-case, nothing irregular there. any ideas?
 

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Did you spin the tc all the way around and look at each bolt? I broke 3 flexplates in 3 months due to a missing bolt at the back of the trans that bolts thru the block to the transmission. What transmission fluid did you use? Did your shifter lever come loose? Perhaps the hard shifts loosened some plugs on the trans.
If it was in limp mode, you would have 3rd gear, that's why I say check your linkage.
 
Trans is out. Converter looks fine. But the pump splines wont turn by hand so it appears i found the failure. Now i just need to decide id i want to rebuild this or do a 5spd conversion.
 
so i believe i was mistaken. the splines i was attempting to turn are the stationary shaft (i think) when the tc is in i can spin it freely. the flexplate looks fine. if it was the end clutches i dont think it would have been making that noise. im trying to figure out what failed and if i can repair it or i should just look for a used replacement. does anyone know what i should inspect to find the failure?
 
Sounds like a pump failure. I had that happen in 2005 or 2006 on a friends 2G GST. He bolted the converter to the engine and installed the engine. Then we put the tranny in afterwards by itself. In doing so we had a hard time lining it up and finally got it to seat. But we did force it on and in turn completely demolished the pump gears. IPT was the big dogs at the time so we called them and they told us to pull the tranny cooler lines and see if either would pump fluid. Niether line did, thus proving we damaged the pump.

Once we got the tranny back out pulled the pump cover and there was the gears in nearly a dozen pieces. When it went back together we put the converter in the transmission before the install. Then once in the car we bolted the converter to the flexplate. Worked like a champ until he sold the car.
 
you ALWAYS put the converter in the trans prior to installing the trans. this is not my problem since the car rean great before the failure. i am thinking more twards the converter being my failure. but im unsure how to check it.
 
you ALWAYS put the converter in the trans prior to installing the trans. this is not my problem since the car rean great before the failure. i am thinking more twards the converter being my failure. but im unsure how to check it.

Did you spin and push in the converter till both gears mesh when installing ?..Two clicks is the norm..Always put a quart in too.
 
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Sounds like the kickdown band may be fried. These transmissions are easy to work on. Once it is apart and the convertor is out you will be able to look inside the pump and see if the gears are broke or if there is any wear on the pump bearings or bushing. If you can see no visible wear or damage I would take the pump out and pull the clutch basket and check the band. And go from there. As for seating the pump I stand the Trans on end, put in two flex plate bolts, flip it and quickly and carefully put the convertor in. Spin the convertor back and forth with downward pressure until you hear three clicks. I can always tell when it is seated fully by listening and feeling the convertor riding on the ball bearings in the pump.
If the pump is damaged I can help you with replacement parts to get it going unless the bottom where the convertor rides is damaged then you will need to replace the whole pump which I have but is my spare, but will sell it for the right price. IPT claims to have a modified "high flow" pump but upon tare down and inspection seems to be completely stock unmodified, these sell for $400!

If you need any help at any point in time PM me and I will give you my number and try to help!
 
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Not trying to thread jack but you guys are making me doubt if i installed my converter properly. I just installed my sinister speed 8" core 2 and got it to go the three steps into the tranny. But when I went to bolt it to the engine I didn't have to pull the converter out 1/8" to get it close enough to the flexplate to start the converter bolts like i did the stock converter...

Is it seated all the way?? From the Way I understand, the converter should be pulled out slightly when trying to bolt it to the flexplate and I jus had to start my bolts. No Pulling it out a bit to get it close enough to start the 4 bolts, jus bolted it right up
 
As long as the convertor can spin freely BEFORE you bolt it to the flex plate, if you can't spin it by hand then it might not be seated all the way. Did you install the Trans with the motor in the car? Sometimes they can slide out some when lifting them in.
 
Not trying to thread jack but you guys are making me doubt if i installed my converter properly. I just installed my sinister speed 8" core 2 and got it to go the three steps into the tranny. But when I went to bolt it to the engine I didn't have to pull the converter out 1/8" to get it close enough to the flexplate to start the converter bolts like i did the stock converter...

Is it seated all the way?? From the Way I understand, the converter should be pulled out slightly when trying to bolt it to the flexplate and I jus had to start my bolts. No Pulling it out a bit to get it close enough to start the 4 bolts, jus bolted it right up

I'm sure its fine..You seated it correctly..The one Sinister converter I had was noticeably taller than my stock one and stuck out farther when seated..

THE SILVER ONE IS THE SINISTER,THE RED IS A STOCK DIAMETER, RE-STALLED HUGHES
 

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Thanks guys!! You got to me before Mike at sinister speed did, I just didn't have time to get on here till now so I read What he told me before getting on LOL. But yeah, Mike said the same thing GDNF2ET. He said it was just a difference in cores :hellyeah: :thumb:
 
wow, for some reason i couldn't find this thread i made, must have been overlooking it. i still haven't figured out the issue, but i have verified that my tc is good. i posted a video in another thread, but after that i used a pick to reach in and hold the hub and a flathead to spin the spline. it does in fact only spin clockwise so i know the tc is ok. im about to tear down the trans. it has still been sitting in my garage since i removed and pressure washed it. ill look at the pump and band as you suggested 94allwheeldsm. thanks for the input.
 
so i found the problem LOL. first thing i did was remove the pump because i saw a small something that looked out of place through the input hole. after i removed the pump i split the halves and what do i find to my surprise? the fluid drive gear.... in 4 pieces!!!. i am fairly certain this is because i was running the blue wire mod and had max line pressure durring a tune session and all 3 passes at the track. now to find a pump. best i can find so far is a rman for $206 here F4A32-1, A4AF-1, W4A32 Pumps Transmission Parts
 

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