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PR FMIC install and battery relocate

Posted by spic21, Nov 22, 2010

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  1. spic21

    spic21 Proven Member

    238
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    Joined May 14, 2010
    albany, Louisiana
    Ok bare with me on this. This is the first time I’ve ever tried to make a thread for educational info. I am very dyslexic and have horrible grammar and spelling skills. I believe you’ll all get the point. Also if anyone would like to edit or change anything that I’m not explaining well, spelled incorrect or just bad grammar. Please do so or tell me and I will change it. Because of the amount of pics I have and text I will be writing, I will be doing this over next few day/weeks. Please be patient.


    1990 EAGLE TALON TSI
    I have just recently installed a PR FMIC and relocated my battery with disconnect switch. during this process I also installed ecmlink V3, LC-1 wideband, a new TB, 2 oil catch cans, distribution block for (MPI, fan, and ign. these are the fuse connected to the positive side of battery), install a IAT and 4-bar map sensor for SD, replace all vacuum lines and made a new vacuum point at the egr block off plate. I also painted the fire wall and valve cover so there will be a lot of changes in pics but these are all of same car. I am very close to completion so I wanted to start posting some pics. Maybe this will help other that want to do this as well. Before I start id like to thank everyone that has help me and there are a lot of you. Also before I start id like to thank a few places that I bought parts from. Nothing I order took over a week to get in. Also most of the vendors were very helpful on any problems I had.

    here a list of some of the vendors I used:
    punishment racing- FMIC
    thorrlebody.com- 63mm bore TB and sensors
    ecmlink - V3, speed density, cables
    jegs- battery relocate and disconnect switch
    siliconeintake.com- vacuum hose
    fuel injector clinic- seals and o-rings
    I also bought a lot of parts on ebay.com- LC-1, oil catch cans, distribution block and fuses

    I will add to this list as I go because I’m sure I’m forgetting some.

    Ill start the pics with what I started with and go from there. Due to have 3 comps I have different pics on different comps so I may have to go in and add one here or there. Also I few pics were lost between all the comps.

    Also you may notice that I label pretty much everything that I take apart. Even if I know what it is and where it goes. This is for many reasons. one being that u never know what’s going to happen and u may run into a problem that make the process take longer than what you planned and you would be surprised how fast you can forget where that plug or hose went. I also put something in any holes that could get metal shaving or dirt or anything nasty in them. I completely degreased the whole engine bay.

    So let’s start with some pics. here is what start with and what it looked like after removing battery, radiator, a/c in front of radiator, upper IC pipe, front bumper cover and bumper, hood, side mount, intake and unplugged most connector and vacuum line. Also the over flow was removed and you will see pics later of how I relocated it where old side mount was.

    Note: always at least disconnect battery before performing any major work to your car.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 24, 2010
  2. spic21

    spic21 Proven Member

    238
    0
    Joined May 14, 2010
    albany, Louisiana
    In these pics you will see the power steering line that you will have to remove. Also pay attention to the small holes that the line goes through. You will be opening these holes up soon. You will also have to cut away at the middle radiator support bracket.
    Other pic is of over flow removed, it just slides right out no bolts. you will also see the a/c line in this pic. I removed all my a/c hard ware and cut lines back to where i can run new ones in the future.
    Last two pics are of cut a/c line and the other line was just taped off where it unscrewed. I ended up removing the line on the driver side all the way to a/c compressor and taping off holes. i do plan on having my a/c by next summer.

    The next thing I did was install all the pipes. This was to just see what I had to cut. You will notice that there are no clamps because this will all have to be removed again.

    Once I seen how it all hooked up I started enlarging holes and cutting radiator bracket. There are many ways to do this, I used a saw saw, grinder with grinding and cutting wheels , and a dye grinder. First pics u will see are rough cuts. Be very careful cutting, there are a few wiring harness near holes.

    I came back and made it pretty with grinder and black paint, I also bought some Door edge guards( there really cheap at O'reillys) and cut pieces to size to make it not so sharp, and so pipes wouldn't rub against the metal. I also put a piece of door guard of driver side of radiator because the pipe was very close to it.

    So now let get that front mount up there. Remember you will have to cut radiator bracket for the front mount(FM) to sit in correctly. I used large a/c zip ties to hold mine up, you can also use wire. If you look at your FM you will notice at bottom there are to flat bars bent to look like hooks. These will sit against the bottom of frame to space it correctly so you don't mess up any fins on FM. In this pic i have not cut the radiator bracket yet and it needs to be higher up, but like i said this was just a mock up for me.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 5, 2014
  3. spic21

    spic21 Proven Member

    238
    0
    Joined May 14, 2010
    albany, Louisiana
    After you see where the FM needs to sit and you have cut everything that needs be (radiator support and enlarged holes), put the FM back up where it’s going to sit. Now the fun part, you’ll need to cut your bumper so it fits back into place. I started with a hand held grinder with cutting blade and a saw saw. What you can’t see is on the inside of bumper there or 4 or 5 piece of metal that run through it for more support. What I did was use my cutting torch and cut them out one at a time. This would have been much more difficult without the torch. Once you have cut bumper stick it up there and see if it going to fit.
    Once I knew all the parts were now going to fit I started to assumable all the piping on passenger side to the front mount. My FM is being held up by stainless steel wire (or mechanics wire) now not zip ties (that is what recommend by PR was, but feel free to make your own brackets). It’s not the best looking way to have it mounted but you can’t see it when it all done anyway and it was pretty strong. I put all the piping in place with the clamps, but don’t tighten the clamps up just yet. Before you can put the driver side together you must reinstall radiator without the a/c fan. I also used a piece of that door guard on driver side of radiator because the pipe that goes to j-pipe to FM rubbed it a little.
    Now that the Radiator is in you can put the pipe to FM on driver side and the J-pipe on. The J-pipe was a mega bi***. I also used the gasket that came with the kit and ended up with a leak there so I recommend using copper gasket maker. These couple pipes were the hardest for me to get into place.
    Once all the pipes and FM are all hooked together go ahead and tighten the clamps up. Don’t over tighten them because the can pop. I had this problem not when tighten but later on when car was just sitting there. When I asked people about it they said user error but I’ve never had one pop before this. Also when I went to buy more at the industrial store near by they told me they have never seen one break. I don’t know if these are just cheap or if I really just over tighten them.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. spic21

    spic21 Proven Member

    238
    0
    Joined May 14, 2010
    albany, Louisiana
    I’ve got some more pics her for ya’ll. The first couple pics are of the completed install and with the bumper back on. Sorry the bumper pic is from side but it the only one I can find. I can’t find a pic of how I relocated the over flow but it was very easy. All I did was cut out the hole where the side mount came up a little bigger. You have to do this to get it to fit in there correctly. Then mount it to the side, I did this with a bracket I made out of sheet metal and some metal strapping. Then get a little long hose to go to radiator and extend the wiring to plug it up. Another thing you most do is loop your power steering hose that went to the front. This is also very easy; just take the small piece of hose that is already on there a hook it to the metal hose that’s coming from steering rack. All you’re doing here is removing the metal u-shaped line that was in the front. Believe it’s to help cool PS, but I’ve been told buy many people that this is not necessary to have.
    I’m going to post a bunch of random pics that I have of the install, maybe they will help ya’ll as well. If I missed anything here please let me know and I will edit. Tomorrow I will start with pics of battery relocate and cutoff switch. Thanks for viewing.

    I found some more bumper pics as well as some pics of PS looped.

    more pics
     

    Attached Files:

  5. spic21

    spic21 Proven Member

    238
    0
    Joined May 14, 2010
    albany, Louisiana
    Well now for the battery relocate. This was a pretty easy thing to do. The hardest part was finding a spot it comes through on the passenger side fire wall. Basically take out batt, batt tray (couple bolts on bottom of tray), and then your ground will go from motor to fire wire. For the positive side I bought a maxi fuse distribution block with 3 4gauge ins and 4 8gauge outs. You will have your main power wire from battery in the back to one 4gauge in, and the other two in spots will be for other two power wire that go straight to battery (sorry cant think of what they go to off the top of my head, think one is starter but cant remember) then the three outs of distribution block will be your MPI,RAD FAN, and again don't remember other one off top off head. But I cut my stock fuse block off and just rewired them to maxi fuse block, then labeled them and put correct amp fuses in. Like I said early the hole in the firewall was hardest part. I found on my car best place was right next to wiring harness under the glove box. Only down side was it came out in a bracket in engine bay. Don't know what it was originally for but I know its not being used now so I cut it off. This is the same hole I use to run my wideband wiring as well. Once you have a hole drilled just run your wires through it under the carpet next to passenger seat. It best to have a rubber gasket to run wires through so they don't get cut up on fire wall and cause a short. I did use rubber o rings but my hole was still a little big so a caulk the crap out of it. Then come out carpet at back seat go under back of seat to the trunk. This is where I have my battery box. I put a disconnect switch because it is required by NHRA rule. To install the switch I took out all the plastic in back part of trunk. Then find a place where you would like your switch to be. You will see where I chose in pics, reason for that spot for how easy it was to get to. I had to cut a hole in back metal piece of the trunk to fit the switch. Then I marked where I wanted it on the middle plastic reflector piece that has the talon or misti symbol. I drilled hole in plastic for the switch then installed switch. Next you will need to run that power wire to one side of the switch and a power wire from other side switch to battery. Then run a ground wire to one of the bolts on floor of truck. I used the biggest one I could find. Make sure to get all the paint off around the bolt to get a good ground. I use a jegs battery relocate kit and switch for this, because it came with almost everything I need. Also kit came with a 2 gauge wire, it will fix prefect in a 4 gauge distributions block. Remember to solder all the connections you make, this was easy just stripe wire back, put a bunch of pieces of solder in connector (connector needs to be in a vise), and then heat with a torch till solder melts down and stick bare wire in it. I also used heat shrink on mine, it just looks nicer.

    I forgot to say u need to mount fuse block some where i chose the stock tower but you can put it where ever you like. You also need to mount the battery box where you would like.
    here some pics no order here.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 5, 2014

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