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1G VRSF FMIC Install

Posted by 9!'clipseDOHC, Dec 6, 2010

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  1. 9!'clipseDOHC

    9!'clipseDOHC Moderator

    3,456
    206
    Joined Aug 24, 2003
    El Paso, Texas
    Here is a thorough critique on the 1G VRSF FMIC and a step by step write up on everything that is involved to install it. My DSM is a 1991 GST with a stock 14b so I ordered both the 1G FMIC kit as well as their j-pipe. It can be confusing deciding which intercooler kit to go with so this should help provide information on at least the VRSF kit.

    The shipping took longer then I hoped but it was around Thanksgiving weekend and I believe that it was FedEx's fault, not VRSF's. When the package arrived it was packaged very well and nothing was damaged.

    Here is the packaging:
    PC043066.jpg
    PC043067.jpg
    PC043068.jpg
    PC043070.jpg
    PC043071.jpg
    One nice feature is the removable flange for the BOV. VRSF also sells a Tial flange so when I am ready to upgrade to one I can just screw this one off and the new one on. Pretty neat! I used Permatex thread sealant in addition to the O-ring to make sure it won't leak.

    The first thing you have to do is remove your front bumper and crash bar. I am not going to cover this step by step but its pretty straight forward. Here is my before picture with the stock SMIC:

    [​IMG]

    Before you can even begin to mount your core you will need to enlarge the opening on both sides of your radiator. You also need to either reroute or bypass your power steering cooler, I chose to bypass it by looping the lines. Lastly you will need to reposition your coolant overflow tank, I ended up switching to a gatorade bottle for the time being so it would still fit in the stock location. You also need to remove the metal bracket that the overflow tank mounts onto.

    PC043073.jpg
    This is the coolant overflow tank bracket which needs to be removed to allow room for the piping. I used a combination of a hammer and chisel and a cut-off wheel.

    PC043075.jpg
    PC043077.jpg
    Minor cutting and grinding is required.

    PC043080.jpg
    No more overflow tank bracket.

    PC043078.jpg
    Here is the opening by the radiator enlarged. This has to be done on both ends. I made the large cuts with a 4.5" cut off wheel and the rest with a little Drimel cut-off wheel.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 3K  33

    1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    13.102 @ 111.220 · 1G DSM
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  2. 9!'clipseDOHC

    9!'clipseDOHC Moderator

    3,456
    206
    Joined Aug 24, 2003
    El Paso, Texas
    Now that you have made room, you can begin mounting the core. The brackets come without the holes drilled so that is your first step. Hold the core up to the and mark where the holes should be drilled. The brackets are aluminum so they are very easy to drill through. There are two brackets, one on each side, which attach to the inside bolt for the crash bar. There is a third bracket in the center that mounts onto the center support for the hood release.
    PC043082.jpg

    Once you core is mounted you can run your piping. The piping is very straight forward. On the cold side, the throttle body elbow bolts in place of the stock unit and the upper intercooler pipe connects it to the intercooler core. On the hot side, the j-pipe connects to a horizontal pipe with a 90 degree which connects to the intercooler core with another 90 degree coupler.
    PC063095.jpg

    All of the piping is lightweight aluminum except for the j-pipe which is thick stainless steel. It is a very solid piece. The couplers are 4 ply silicone and all of the clamps are t-bolt clamps. One nice thing about the clamps is that they tighten with a 10mm, so they are DSM friendly. Everything needed was included.

    Now that the piping is run you will need to cut the crash bar. I made some quick eyeball measurements and it turned out perfect. You will have to cut the crash bar and the corners of both brackets. I used a 4.5" cut-off wheel on a electric grinder. It took 2 or 3 blades for everything and maybe 30 minutes, including measuring. Once you figure out exactly where you need to cut, cut a straight line along the bottom and another along the inside. Once you get the outer layer off you will also have to trim 5 support members on the inside.
    PC053085.jpg
    Measure and mark.

    PC053089.jpg
    Cut.

    PC053090.jpg
    Mount.

    Now you just have to reattach you bumper and you are done.
    PC063094.jpg
    PC063096.jpg

    Overall this kit is very easy to install and only requires minimal modifications to your car. I took it for a test drive and noticed that it is boosting stronger (by way of even less traction, FWD). It is also seems to be creeping a little more, but that is mostly due to the 3" exhaust piping. I am very happy that I decided to go with kit and would purchase it again and definitely recommend it.

    I hope you found this tech article helpful! Feedback/ratings are appreciated!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014

    Street Build 3K  33

    1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    13.102 @ 111.220 · 1G DSM
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    19gsx91, STGIIITsi, Calan and 4 others like this.

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