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2G Power Steering not working after repairs

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TheDude236

5+ Year Contributor
304
227
Mar 15, 2021
Huntsville, Alabama
So, the one thing holding me back from my DSM being on the road is the PS system not working.
I've replaced mostly everything associated with it: Rebuilt PS Pump and rebuilt rack and pinion, tie rod ends, other linkage, and a singular PS line (since the others were fairly inaccessible)
And even after replacing all of those components, it still does not function.
Here is what happens:
After bleeding the system, the power steering works for about 15-30 seconds. In fact, there is so much pressure in the system that one of the power steering lines torques under the pressure and my RPM's drop by about 1-300 when the wheel is maxed out in either direction. After cycling the wheel some, the system stops making pressure and the line stops torqueing. On test drives, the PS sometimes starts working again, but very intermittently and only for 1-2 seconds.

Here is the post my dad made on facebook asking for advice:
My son and I replaced a leaky rack & pinion. Power steering worked for about a minute, then stopped working. We then replaced the power steering pump and the high pressure hose. Again, it worked for about a minute then stopped. Here is what we did - replaced rack - with the front lifted on jacks, and the motor off, we turned the wheels lock to lock to bleed all bubbles out - when the reservoir stopped bubbling, we cranked the engine and bled again - power steering worked but then stopped - removed the return line and ran it into a bucket and flushed the entire system into a bucket - started over by rebleeding the system with engine off and then running - power steering worked and then stopped after about a minute. At this point we are stuck. Any constructive input would be greatly appreciated.

Some of the comments from facebook said we might have gotten a bad rack, or maybe the bypass valve for the system was stuck open. Personally, I have no clue. I figured tuners answers would probably be better than facebook so I'm posting it here as well.
 

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This happened when I didn’t assemble the pump correctly. It would feel like it’s bumping every time I turned the wheel. Pretty sure I had this part backwards. Idk if the 2g pump is similar


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I didnt assemble the pump myself since i bought it rebuilt off of rock auto, but I'll probably end up tearing it open anyways. we shall see...
 
Are you following the proper bleeding procedure? At least for 1g you put the front on stands, temporarily disable the fuel pump, and turn the wheel from lock to opposite lock while cranking the starter.
I did this after replacing both the rack and pump. Trapped air might explain your symptoms, but I’m not really that knowledgeable about how the system really works. It does sound like something may be wrong with the pressure bypass in the pump. I think that might also be the part that TK was referring to.
 
Are you following the proper bleeding procedure? At least for 1g you put the front on stands, temporarily disable the fuel pump, and turn the wheel from lock to opposite lock while cranking the starter.
I did this after replacing both the rack and pump. Trapped air might explain your symptoms, but I’m not really that knowledgeable about how the system really works. It does sound like something may be wrong with the pressure bypass in the pump. I think that might also be the part that TK was referring to.
I did follow the procedure for the most part but didn't do the whole "cranking the car and turning the wheel" for too long. Might want to try that bit again when i try to re-bleed the system soon
 
Why did you replace the original PS components? What was wrong to start with?
They were over 200k old and the power steering wasn't working after I put my engine back in my car.
I believe the pump stopped working since it was sandblasted and got some of the sand inside the pump that shredded the internals and stopped making pressure. And it was also leaking from the top.
The pictures attached are also of my rack, which was leaking all over the floor of my garage.

To me, I figured I should replace both since both components were leaking and just old. Now there are no leaks at least ROFL

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I replaced both for the same reason, though my odometer reads under 100k on my 90 gsx. (something I've questioned now that I know how easily the entire guage cluster can be swapped). What are you using for ps fluid. 1g is supposed to be Dexron II (good luck, I found some Dexron IV). I don't suspect fluid type would explain your trouble; more likely something that would show up down the road. Any chance you didn't get all the sand out of somewhere (reservoir, lines)? From your description your belt is properly tensioned, because it causes rpm to drop. Is there foaminess in the fluid when you open the ps reservoir cap? That would indicate poor bleeding.
 
What are you using for ps fluid. 1g is supposed to be Dexron II (good luck, I found some Dexron IV). Any chance you didn't get all the sand out of somewhere (reservoir, lines)? From your description your belt is properly tensioned, because it causes rpm to drop. Is there foaminess in the fluid when you open the ps reservoir cap? That would indicate poor bleeding.
I was using dexron 4 at first then was told that ATF might be good as well. So I ended up using that on the second bleed. Could be sand in the lines, Im going to crack the pump open at some point to confirm something isnt blocking the veins in the pump. I believe there was some foaminess so I suppose a re-bleed is probably in order
 
When I rebuilt my rack it took numerous lock to lock turning to bleed & get all the air out. Had it on jack stands, engine off, & 30 plus lock to lock turns to get all the air out. This was like 5 minutes of left to right back to left, lock to lock turning.
 
When I rebuilt my rack it took numerous lock to lock turning to bleed & get all the air out. Had it on jack stands, engine off, & 30 plus lock to lock turns to get all the air out. This was like 5 minutes of left to right back to left, lock to lock turning.
Yeah I did do that, then did the crank method, then put the car on the ground with it running to bleed further
 
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