possible wiring/sensor issue

[dwdsm]

Well, I have a unique issue that I just need to bounce off a few of you. I just got finished with my wire tuck and relay box relocation. So obviously I did alot of trimming and lengthing. I switched to dsmlink v3 and loaded my v2.5 map and what wouldn't load I copied to the new version. The car Idles perfectly and drives smoothly until under boost 10-18psi. At no specific rpm or boost range the car will break up and adding fuel doesn't change anything. Then after driving for a while the car will show a misfire on cyclinder 3 and run on 3 cyclinders. My wideband goes to 19:1, all at the same event. 1,2,4 showed that they truly were running super lean and cyc 3 was pig rich. The wierd part is the last time I took it out after changing my wideband sensor it repeated the same process but I noticed if I just shut the car down and started it right back up it was fine. So I think something electrical is "loading up". Is this possible? Another question I have is the ground to the resistor pack through it's frame that bolts to the firewall? The mitsu book doesn't indicate this. I just painted it and could easily have a bad ground there if that's the case. Any thoughts on where to start would be helpful. Tomorrow I'm going to switch my injectors around to make sure it's not one of them.
Thanks,
Dave

 

[dented_coffee]

Look arround for broken and curroded plugs and connectors when your swapping the injectors arround. It could be a loose wire rattling arround.

 

[dwdsm]

Good thought thanks. Sometimes I forget to look for the simple soloution.

 

[dwdsm]

nope that's not it.. any other ideas?

 

[dented_coffee]

Could be the ECU its self, bad or going bad EPROM chip, bad connection with the USB cable to OBD2 port, the computer might have a virus, or there is a glitch in the software. My USB port was damaged and that caused connection and all sorts of funny stuff to happen. The worst mine caused was miss calculation and 42LB's of boost killed my engine in a big old hurry from a bad signal that was sent accidentally.

Save all of your ECU tuning maps and uninstall the software and reinstall it. Reload all of your tuning maps and give her a try.

Make sure your USB port on the computer is not broken or loose. Allot of USB ports get worn out and the little black part of plastic that keeps the connectors touching flops down loosing connection with the slightest movement at random.

Inspect your ECU for damage from age, leaking caps, broken connectors, frayed in board copper ribbons, half azz installed socket or EPROM chip. The damage might not be intentional but might be present or its just age damages like most ECU's see in the DSM's. Also make sure the big black square's on the board do not have lumps. Lumps are bad and means its a bad ECU as well. I use rubber gloves to touch the board to eliminate the possibility of oils or anything that can harm or contaminate the circuitry. Inspect all the soldered connections on the board for any shabby, broken, sketchy, corroded, blackened, or unsoldered connections.

If you can post a high detailed picture of the bottom of the board and top of the board I can inspect it for bad connections or weak connections for you to look into getting tested or fixed. Use a tri-pod and take it in the highest pixel count as possible with mo flash. I have found that using the settings for nature or flowers brings the little details out allot better that sharp or standard. The tri-pod is for stability because when using no flash for nature pictures some cameras tend to blur or distort the quality.

 

[turboglenn]

here's an easy set of tests.. pull the plug off the # 3 injector with the ECU powered up (key in run position), use a volt/Ohm meter and test for continuity from the4 ground pin on the #3 injector plug... if there's a conection to ground while the engine is off, then the ECU either burn the injector driver or the wire is shorted some where in the loom to the ECU

Next test if the #3 inj pin is an "open circuit" when tested.... Take that injector and put it in another cylinder and see if that cylinder is flooding out or going super rich... if the richness folows the injector then you have a bad injector that's either really dirty and needs cleaned or has gone bad and is stuck open.

If it's dirty and you need them cleaned I"ll do it for 35 bucks for the entire set, but i'll test the "bad one " first and if cleaning wont' fix it i wont' charge anything but shipping.

I have an unltra sonic cleaner and some good chem dip from a parts washer and i clean a lot of injectors this way, i even wired a rig to open the injector while being sonicly cleaned anda fuel pump in a gallon of chem dip so i can test each injectors flow.

35 is what i use to get charged locally and they didn't even power the injectors open and flow through them to get the gunk out so i bought the stuff so i could do customer's cars for around the same price with better and faster restults.. LEt me know how test 2 turns out and PM me if you want them cleaned.. would be shipping time, then one day's service and shipping back to you ( i ship everything priority mail, so it would be fast, if you can take 4 - 5 days without the injectors it would be worth a shot and like i said< If i can't fix it , i won't charge you a single cent, just pay to ship them back to you and that's all

this should be easy to sort so test the 2 things i listed and get back to us/me

 

[dwdsm]

here's an easy set of tests.. pull the plug off the # 3 injector with the ECU powered up (key in run position), use a volt/Ohm meter and test for continuity from the4 ground pin on the #3 injector plug... if there's a conection to ground while the engine is off, then the ECU either burn the injector driver or the wire is shorted some where in the loom to the ECU

Next test if the #3 inj pin is an "open circuit" when tested.... Take that injector and put it in another cylinder and see if that cylinder is flooding out or going super rich... if the richness folows the injector then you have a bad injector that's either really dirty and needs cleaned or has gone bad and is stuck open.

If it's dirty and you need them cleaned I"ll do it for 35 bucks for the entire set, but i'll test the "bad one " first and if cleaning wont' fix it i wont' charge anything but shipping.

I have an unltra sonic cleaner and some good chem dip from a parts washer and i clean a lot of injectors this way, i even wired a rig to open the injector while being sonicly cleaned anda fuel pump in a gallon of chem dip so i can test each injectors flow.

35 is what i use to get charged locally and they didn't even power the injectors open and flow through them to get the gunk out so i bought the stuff so i could do customer's cars for around the same price with better and faster restults.. LEt me know how test 2 turns out and PM me if you want them cleaned.. would be shipping time, then one day's service and shipping back to you ( i ship everything priority mail, so it would be fast, if you can take 4 - 5 days without the injectors it would be worth a shot and like i said< If i can't fix it , i won't charge you a single cent, just pay to ship them back to you and that's all

this should be easy to sort so test the 2 things i listed and get back to us/me

Well the ground is good with the car on and is open with the car off. So that's good. I didn't really understand the pin 3 open test. However I tested and get voltage at the injector when the car is turned on. I had already swapped injectors last night and took it for a drive. The car now doesn't drop a cyclinder but still runs like crap in boost. I added a ton of fuel and it still runs the same. I am starting to wonder if it's an injector or... my manifold could have not sealed well.. blowoff valve leaks a bit too.. it never did before.. I did a boost leak test and didn't hear anything but that damn blowoff valve... what to do what to do.