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possible wiring problem??

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Project Draven

15+ Year Contributor
293
1
Mar 6, 2004
Mount Pleasant, Pennsylvania
well all i still havn't figured out whats going on with my 90 tsi and apparently noone else is writing back to me in my previous thread so here it goes......i am having a spark issue and i have tried to replace everything now all i am getting from the coils is a clicking sound.......we tried all my old components....power transister.....cas...ecu....in my buddys car and everything works fine......spark and all.....so this leads me to believe i have a wiring problem somewhere but i don't know where to go from here can someone please point me in the right direction i mean this is straight up frustrating me or could someone tell me where to look and to get this problem of mine finally solved....i mean please everyone i am going crazy here and i know someone out there knows whats possibly messed up here


any help will be greatly appreciated

thanks in advance

brandon
 
well pin 1 is the only one showing power....(yellow/green) i am buying new coil packs in the morning and see if thats the problem....i measured the resistance on the secondary and i got close to 15.2 on both of them
 
well pin 1 is the only one showing power....(yellow/green) i am buying new coil packs in the morning and see if thats the problem....i measured the resistance on the secondary and i got close to 15.2 on both of them
With the PT disconnected you should have power on both pin 1 and pin 6 (key ON and coil connected). Sounds like coil B's primary is shot (or it's wire to the PT is broken but you said you tested that - right?).

Measure coil B's primary resistance (should be in range 0.77-0.95 ohms across it's pins 1 & 4 - yellow/black & black/white are the connector wire colors but measure on the coil side) with it disconnected. I bet you'll see high or infinite resistance.
 
I assume we are talking about the coils? They need a common ground between the two spark plugs. The magnetic field is coupled between the primary and secondary but there isn't any electrical connection between the primary and secondary.
But does the coil and bracket have to be mounted (bolted) to the manifold like originally from the factory or can it be mounted anywhere and work just as well? (I hear different stories)
 
well i replaced the coils....now i have power pin 1 and pin 6....but i am still just getting a clicking sound from the coils?? i have the injectors unplugged so i don't flood the motor so whats goin on here
 
Well now that you have power on PT pin 6 that proves that that coil's primary was bad as I said (open circuit inside).

Clicking from the coils? They don't click. You must mean from something else. Did you get oem or aftermarket (from where?) coils. Try doing my coil spark test now with your new coils.
 
i got them aftermarket from my work.....advance auto parts.....when i am spinning the cas with everything hooked up i get no spark from the coils only this slight clicking sound and i kno its not the injectors because they are unplugged it sounds like maybe a weak spark would sound
 
Do you have all the spark cables connected to the coil and plugs (with plugs installed or casings grounded)? If not, spark will jump to ground whereever it can on the unconnected items (even along the sides of the coil if spark cable is not connected properly).
 
how can i test the signal for the cas for the coils?.... ikno the sensor is good but maybe the wiring itself after the cas plug could have a problem??
 
nope havn't got to test it like that yet......coils are already installed ......shouldn't i be able to see the arcs between the coils with the plug wires off or not if not then maybe thats the problem
 
Do not run or power test the coils with the spark cables off. You can damage the coil by the high voltage generated and giving no place for the current to go (so it will find a place on or within the coil and can damage itself). And seeing arcing between the coils is not good - again damage to the coils can result. Keep all plugs (casings grounded) and spark cables connected - then you should not see any arcing anywhere or you have a problem. All spark cables and coils must be kept clean of mud, dirt, oil, water, etc so wipe them off. If you hear arcing but can't find it, try doing it in the dark. You need to do the coil test (post 2) with the new coils to make sure they work before going on to other possibles.

[Note: So they don't have to remove plugs, some people disconnect one at a time each spark cable from the plug end, insert a long screwdriver, and hold the shank 1/4" from engine metal to see if spark jumps the gap (notice even they keep the cable on the coil end to prevent coil damage). To do this you must be wearing thick dry gloves (rubber preferred), insulated boots, etc. so you don't get electrocuted. Use common sense like don't stand on wet floor, don't do it around gas vapors, etc. It can be dangerous if you don't take precautions and use common sense. It's not bad to test just 1 cable. But if your having trouble getting any spark or you want to see how strong the spark is, I prefer to remove all plugs and do the way I described. That way you're using the actual load (the plug) and can see how strong the spark is on each.]

For the CAS test see: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=238267#post50470620. Black (pin 1) is ground, red is +12V. White goes to ECU pin 22. Black (pin 4) goes to ECU pin 21.

Another thing to try is disconnect the noise filter (tach adapter) on the coil to see if it makes a difference (to see if it is defective).
 
alright thanks rallye i will go and test it like that first thing this morning and post back my results
 
i got spark to all four cylinders now.....thanks everyone for all your help especially you rallye and steve.........now i just need to figure out whats wrong with my starter because its just grinding and not spinning the motor
 
ok lets add another problem to the list i tried to catch it in gear and i have no gears feels like i am in neutral in all gears? i just can't win with my car
 
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