Pozobyt
10+ Year Contributor
- 177
- 0
- Jun 22, 2010
-
lucedale,
Mississippi
So, here's what my car is doing.
A few weeks ago, while driving, all of my gauges dropped, and returned to normal. it did this twice, then not ever again after that. so I come to find out my positive battery terminal was broken and so I figured that was the problem, I put a new one on.
then, about a week later, it started stalling when I would come to a stop, I'd put it in park, and start it back up just fine.
then, it started bucking on acceleration really bad, and would stop when I would get to around 60 mph.
then, it started dying when I put the car form park to drive or reverse, or if it doesn't die, it will bog down, then catch itself.
so after cleaning my throttle body, IAC, and EGR, and having the codes read.
which there was only a misfire code, I decide to take it to a shop today.
first of all, it took forever to get the car to even move, I had to hold the brake and gas down at the same time and shift into drive, it almost stalled out, but I saved it.
Halfway to the shop, I stop at a stop sign, and my car stalls out, but when I try to start it again, my battery is dead. luckily my mom was following me, so I push it into a parking lot and she tries to jump me off. We sat there for about 20 minutes trying to jump my car off, and the battery would not seem to charge, so we took it out and took it to autozone to charge it, then brought it back and put it in the car.
I figured my alternater was bad, so I start the car, and disconnect the battery to see, and the car stayed running. I drove it all the way back home, and still let the car run for awhile, and disconnect the battery, and it was still running so I figured my alternater was okay.
So, could my ecu maybe be fried?
I don't have a voltmeter to check the voltage from my battery while the car is running. but would the ecu cause these problems?
I was thinking maybe when that battery terminal was broken, it was touching the battery post , and sendng a surge that fried the ecu.
Also, I forgot to add that if It's idling in park or neutral, it idles fine, and will rev fine. but if It stalls out, and when I restart it, when the car cranks, it kind of bogs down for a second before returning to a smooth idle.
or what else might it be?
Okay so today I went and got a multimeter,
the battery is reading 12 volts when the car is off. and 13.7 volts when the car is running.
the thing is, when I try to start the car, the battery drops to 4 volts and wont turn the car over. The only way to get it to start is to jump the car off.
Voltage regulator maybe?
I also tested the voltage to starter and it's getting 12 volts with the car off. It's not the starter solenoid because when I try to turn the car over, all the lights dim like the battery is dead, but when I turn the key off, the battery has 12 volts.
A few weeks ago, while driving, all of my gauges dropped, and returned to normal. it did this twice, then not ever again after that. so I come to find out my positive battery terminal was broken and so I figured that was the problem, I put a new one on.
then, about a week later, it started stalling when I would come to a stop, I'd put it in park, and start it back up just fine.
then, it started bucking on acceleration really bad, and would stop when I would get to around 60 mph.
then, it started dying when I put the car form park to drive or reverse, or if it doesn't die, it will bog down, then catch itself.
so after cleaning my throttle body, IAC, and EGR, and having the codes read.
which there was only a misfire code, I decide to take it to a shop today.
first of all, it took forever to get the car to even move, I had to hold the brake and gas down at the same time and shift into drive, it almost stalled out, but I saved it.
Halfway to the shop, I stop at a stop sign, and my car stalls out, but when I try to start it again, my battery is dead. luckily my mom was following me, so I push it into a parking lot and she tries to jump me off. We sat there for about 20 minutes trying to jump my car off, and the battery would not seem to charge, so we took it out and took it to autozone to charge it, then brought it back and put it in the car.
I figured my alternater was bad, so I start the car, and disconnect the battery to see, and the car stayed running. I drove it all the way back home, and still let the car run for awhile, and disconnect the battery, and it was still running so I figured my alternater was okay.
So, could my ecu maybe be fried?
I don't have a voltmeter to check the voltage from my battery while the car is running. but would the ecu cause these problems?
I was thinking maybe when that battery terminal was broken, it was touching the battery post , and sendng a surge that fried the ecu.
Also, I forgot to add that if It's idling in park or neutral, it idles fine, and will rev fine. but if It stalls out, and when I restart it, when the car cranks, it kind of bogs down for a second before returning to a smooth idle.
or what else might it be?
Okay so today I went and got a multimeter,
the battery is reading 12 volts when the car is off. and 13.7 volts when the car is running.
the thing is, when I try to start the car, the battery drops to 4 volts and wont turn the car over. The only way to get it to start is to jump the car off.
Voltage regulator maybe?
I also tested the voltage to starter and it's getting 12 volts with the car off. It's not the starter solenoid because when I try to turn the car over, all the lights dim like the battery is dead, but when I turn the key off, the battery has 12 volts.
