1G Pop up headlights won't go down! (a bit long)

[96bmwm3]

On my 1990 Talon AWD, it looks like the previous owner did the sleepy eye mod. That was all well and good until the other day when I tried to lower the headlights and nothing happened. Then a couple of minutes later the headlights lowered. Hmmm, bad connection somewhere?

This happened a few times prior, but now I can't get the things to go down at all. If I lower them manually I can get them to pop back up by hitting the button, but when I hit the button again, nothing.

The chicklet is installed and I've checked the voltage to the headlight pop up button. The #1 pin always has 12 volts. I've checked the switch itself and it alternates continuity from pin #1 to pin #2 when the buttons in and between pin #1 and #3 when it's out. (I'm not sure if the pins are labeled #2 and #3, but the switch functions as my manual says).

I've measure 12v on one of the pins at the headlight motor when the button is pushed in and 10V on the same pin when the button is up (should lower the lights).

It seems to me that the 2 different states of the button should send 12v to different pins at the headlight motor?? Is this correct? What should the connection at the headlight motor "see"?

I don't know if the previous owner made any other modifications to this circuit that may have had an effect.

Help!

 

[19Eclipse90]

After studying the diagrams a little more thoroughly, I'd imagine the most likely culprit is the pop-up motor relay and, yes, its terminals would need to be tested since it has a separate coil for each motor.

For good measure, here's what the FSM has to say:
1. Headlights do not rise

(1) They rise only when the column switch is operated - check the pop-up switch.
(2) They rise only when the pop-up switch is operated - check the column switch.​

2. Headlights do not retract

(1) Check the pop-up switch.
(2) Check the passing control relay.​

3. One headlight does not move

(1) Check the pop-up motor relay.
(2) Check the pop-up motor.​

 

[Daniel Skelton]

What happens if the button isn't pushed, the column switch is off, you manually drive the motors up, and then you:

-push the button?
-turn the column switch on?​

If nothing happens in either scenario, that's fine, I simply want to understand what you're dealing with here.

To test / inspect, disconnect the harness from the pop-up motor connector and probe the shown pins as instructed below. The idea is that between pins 1 and 2 you should have continuity of some consistent value (B) between 1 o'clock and clockwise to 12 o'clock. Then moving the probe from pin to pin 5, you should have continuity of some consistent value (A) between 7 o'clock and clockwise to 6 o'clock.

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If the probes maintain good contact throughout this inspection and the resistance value does not stay approximately the same in either of the described windows, the motor is "bad".


Assuming all the wiring is good. Either the passing control relay or the pop-up motor relay could be suspect. Have you verified the wiring is good?
Checks for either of these components are here: 1ga headlight problem

Hey thanks for that advice when i next go to my freinds house ill check to see if the current is consistent according to your instructions what tools will i need for this?

My headlights go neither up nor down unless manually cranked

 

[19Eclipse90]

You will need a multimeter: ohmmeter for checking resistance or continuity and voltmeter for measuring voltage if you intend to check the passing control relay or want to double check power at the motor connector.

 

[Daniel Skelton]

Ok thanks bro for all the help ill update you on how it all goes im excited to tackle this problem. By the way i havent found anyone else that owns a 90 mitsubishi eclipse in this state yet at least not in driveable condition this is also my first car i got a few complements on it already i spoke to a mechanic yesterday to see if i could just bring it in for a tune up and he was kinda hesitant them he offered to buy it off me nah he must be crazy