Piston, rod, and crank options

[quirozgsx]

I am gonna be building a 6 bolt to put into my 2g gsx and i am wondering what is a good combo of rod, piston, and crank. i want to get new everything but i am limited on money i just want options. it is my daily driver, want to put a 16g big turbo and i want to push about 350-400hp.

 

[swifteagle]

A good stock 6 bolt bottom end is good for that hp range. I would probably just do a good rebuild maybe do the 2g piston upgrade and arp rod bolts and have them resized. and do a bs delete.

 

[quirozgsx]

whats a bs delete

 

[Kapok6]

whats a bs delete

balance shaft elimination.

evo pistons/rods can be had for cheap.

 

[swifteagle]

Balance shafts delete. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PA2CQDivys]DSM Graveyard - Balance Shaft Eliminator "How To" 1 of 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[pokemon]

whats a bs delete

i think he means balance shaft delete

 

[My1GLaser]

For those HP goals; Stock crank, 6 bolt rods, NPR pistons will work fine. (The 2g piston/1g rod combo requires machine work. The machine work is half the price of forged rods especially if you are getting ARP rod bolts and getting the big end resized.) 400hp is kind of a stretch for a 16g, but can be done with high boost and E85. I would expect closer to 350 on pump for the average Joe. Its all in the tune! I suggest getting the EvoIII16g if you haven't bought the turbo yet.

The question you have to answer is how long will that HP be enough before you want to upgrade. And how long will that be enough until you need to upgrade again? If you need to upgrade turbos and increase 50-100 HP every year or two then you might want to build a forged motor from the start. That's what I did, but everyone's goals are different and its not my DD. I have 20k miles and 5 years on the same built motor. I started with 18ish psi on a 16g and now I'm running 36-38 psi on an HX35.

 

[gst96spyderman]

get the Wiseco's and eagle's. Let the rest come in time. You'll grow out of that 350 hp and want to go bigger, and these will hold the 400+ range you'll want in future.

 

[quirozgsx]

what is the purpose of the balance shaft and deleting it does what??
but i dont want to really go over that because i am going to college soon so i need a reliable car but fun you know? and if i wanna build a stronger engine i would just build another one while i am still driving this one but i just dont want it to break down on me internally.

 

[gs59_20]

I think the biggest suggestion you can get,that no one has offered, is before you start thinking about upgrading as well as HP and such, get yourself some knowledge on these vehicles. BSE is one of the most common "upgrades" people do to these cars but you have no knowledge of it or why it's done. You don't wanna jump in the deep end of a pool and hope you can swim. You wanna make your way from the 3ft end over to the diving board. Baby steps bro.

 

[ALynch]

While I don't have a whole lot of time under the hood of a DSM, just bought my first one in may 2012, I've been modding cars for awhile and I have to agree with gs59. Start with the little things, the reliability mods. Then work on HP. Especially since you're going to college and need a reliable car. But to answer your original question... a stock 6 bolt will handle what you're looking for. But if you've got the money, build it for the future. You'll want more eventually.

 

[elocneas]

building a 6 bolt myself and when I started I went the rout thinking I was going to do the 90 big rods I have two sets. But when I factored in the cost to get the 2g or evo pistons machining and rod bolts I just figured to go with after market.

 

[gst96spyderman]

Here's the thing. Building from the block up... Take your time and buy/install the right parts over a month or so. If you're going to put forged internals in there, that means the head has to come off. Upgrade the head w/ some nice extremepsi stuff, do some port and polishing. Clean the engine bay. Replace HG and supporting mdods there. You've gone this far... drop the tranny and see what needs to be done there. I know time and money are always a factor, but... here look


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...g-what-did-i-miss-my-build.html#post153188804

This is how you do a build for a goal minded person who is dedicated. There is around 12k in there, and I'm sure this surpasses 400hp, but its a good checklist most of us will have to complete over the course of months...

 

[WES_393]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...g-what-did-i-miss-my-build.html#post153188804

This is how you do a build for a goal minded person who is dedicated. There is around 12k in there, and I'm sure this surpasses 400hp, but its a good checklist most of us will have to complete over the course of months...

A good build no doubt, but way overkill for a 350-400hp daily driver IMO. From a glance that looks like a solid 600hp+ setup.

For a reliable and durable 400hp with room to grow, I'd suggest the following:

-Stock crank inspected, balanced, and thoroughly cleaned inside and out. Be sure to have the shop pull the ball plugs and scrub the galleys.
-Stock 6-bolt rods with ARP bolts and 2g pistons. (FYI all 6-bolt rods are "big" rods)
-OR forged rods/pistons of your choice. Eagle/Manley combo is a good choice. But you may want to look into 4032 alloy pistons for longer life.
-Regular OEM equivalent bearings, rather than "race" bearings. Stock bearings are typically more forgiving against contamination and damage.

I would also suggest having a shop assemble the block. Most shops will do it for a reasonable price and have the experience and tools needed. And remember that a poor tune or lack of supporting mods can destroy even the toughest engines. Some guys have pushed the stock 6-bolt well over 600hp reliably. Others have busted a $3k engine in a few short miles. It's all about the tune.