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overpaying for head rebuild?

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95burgundyesi

15+ Year Contributor
816
9
Feb 8, 2006
Rockford, Illinois
I am bringing my head to the show with half the valves already out,maybe all of them if I an muster up some elbow grease and get the bent ones out. I called around locally and was told 200+ to install valves,guides, and springs.

If you have the tool, I don't see why it is so expensive to put them in. Is it due to the guides being replaced? And if I broke down and bought the right compressor would I be able to install guides myself?

I think I remember some shop saying they clean the seats up when they redo the guides, because of fitment changes?
 
They will have to lap the valves or whatever its called and that is why it will cost so much. Thats when they make sure the valves seat in good and seal completely.
 
You have to aleast lap the valves, you can do it at home, all you need is some lapping compound and suction tool available at(autozone/pepboys/ect). Put some on the valve and lap them in, if you need to see it done you tube it. its reading the lap on the valves and seat thats the tricky part. If not even you need to cut the seat or valve. For a stock rebuild, just lapping should be fine, If you have a air hammer, you can do guides yourself.
 
Yeah I just want a good seal, this is my final head with ss valves and bronze guides, and I am thinking to be safe, have the angles cleaned up since almost all the valves got smacked.
 
Check with BogusSVO or with your machine shop but I believe that when replacing the valve guides they need to cut the valve seats so that they are concentric and then the valves get lapped to mate then to the seats. They should also be sizing the guides to the new valves which may involve additional honeing.

Considering there are 16 valves I'm thinking $200 to replace the guides, install the valves, springs, seals, etc and do the job correctly is perhaps too cheap and wonder what's not getting done. Are they going to check the installed height for each?
 
Your not going to learn much from this post.

I don't know who you were going to have do the work but I suspect they may actually know what they are doing and the best way to learn is to pick their brain about what they are going to do for your money.

Then ask them what's not included but is important from their perspective. Ask them if they are going to check your springs for squareness and spring pressure. Ask them if they are going to cut the seats and how many angles. Ask them how much to touch up the bowls on the head and remove the lip. Ask them if they are going to resurface the head and if so how.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/303225-engine-machine-work-explained.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/100337-cylinder-head-component-description.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341636-how-lap-valve.html
 
$200 is a deal if they are going to do a valve job(tear down head, clean, cut the seats and install the new guides and seals and reassemble the head) but the price can vary depending in what equipment is used.

normally around here a 16v DOHC valve job runs about $160 then to R&R the guides ia about $4.00 each

tearing the head apart is not hard and will save you little to no money to do iy your self, some shops chatge more if you do tear the head apart.

you bent valves so this is what your looking to have done...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341218-how-change-valve-guides-4g63t-head.html

what HG do you plan on using? DO NOT let them belt surface your head!!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html
your surface finish should look about like this , no matter if you use a MLS or a composite gasket..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

the thickness of the head needs to be measured before and after being milled.
New thickness is 5.200 AREA says .015 can be milled from the head. So min thickness would be 5.185, any thinner than this and you should run a thicker HG to restore height.

for every .007 milled from the head closes the combustion chamber by 1cc

also you should have the springs checked( I would bet they are weak and need replaced if they are still the stock Valve sparings)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html

here is some spring info (if you can not find the mitsu stock spring specs use the SBI they are OE replacemnt springs)
I like the BC1100 springs for a drop in replacement with the stock retainers.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

also you will want to do this oil port mod before the head is milled.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html
 
Bringing back from the dead. cause I just had mine done at a price of 115 for Guide removal, Bronze guid install. Install oversized valves, cut seats ect. Lap them in, & Mill the head took off .005 shines like new money.

I went in before he installed the springs and he showed me the seal on the valve where it was lapped. solid seal. And installed the springs retainers and keepers in a matter of 5 min. And the kicker to the whole deal he had to buy a new pilot for his valve seat cutter. which cost him 180! for a carbide tapered shaft thing that just holds a cutting blade. wtf... well anyhow I about shit when he gave the total. So if anyone in NC needs a good machinist they should hit him up in jonesville, Durhams machine shop.

ps. If you take your head into the shop, and they don't know wtf it is after you say mitsu leave..
 
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