2G Over heating the rear brakes.

[gsxitement]

So, last time I was at the track in August, I put some brake rotor temp paint on to measure temps. According to the paint, the rears are running MUCH hotter than the fronts. I thought maybe a proportioning valve issue, but these valves supply pressure left and right, not front and rear. Anyone have any experience with this issue?

 

[spyderdrifter]

Maybe a stuck caliper piston or a bad wheel bearing heating up the rotor? I've also watched a video where the brake fluid boiled inside the caliper and super heated the rotor and bearing.
Here's the video from Jafro

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[gsxitement]

Maybe a stuck caliper piston or a bad wheel bearing heating up the rotor? I've also watched a video where the brake fluid boiled inside the caliper and super heated the rotor and bearing.
Here's the video from Jafro

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I thought that, but BOTH rear rotors are cooking. I've heard since the rears are smaller, they hold more heat. And I'm running Evo brembos, so it's not like a pin freezing up or something.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Damn, that shouldn't happen with those brakes. Have you replaced any part of the rear brake system recently? Is it both sides getting this hot, or only one side? If it's nothing like the video I posted, the only other things I can think of is either the parking brake is dragging, or a caliper is sticking.

 

[gsxitement]

Damn, that shouldn't happen with those brakes. Have you replaced any part of the rear brake system recently? Is it both sides getting this hot, or only one side? If it's nothing like the video I posted, the only other things I can think of is either the parking brake is dragging, or a caliper is sticking.

Both sides. Parking brake is eliminated. It's worth mentioning that this is the track car. It's not like this is happening on the street. I was considering brake pad composition as well? I don't think it's a prop valve issue since that would be left and right. Not front and rear. Got 16 days before the last race of the season to really figure it out.

 

[spyderdrifter]

It may be a track car, but you're going to fast to want this to happen no matter the conditions. I did read something about pad material being a potential cause, so you may be on the right track there. If no parking brake is there, the only other major possibility is a caliper issue, unless there's something physically in the way. But since you're asking here, I'm assuming you've already covered that much, so that's not likely to be a thing.

 

[gsxitement]

It may be a track car, but you're going to fast to want this to happen no matter the conditions. I did read something about pad material being a potential cause, so you may be on the right track there. If no parking brake is there, the only other major possibility is a caliper issue, unless there's something physically in the way. But since you're asking here, I'm assuming you've already covered that much, so that's not likely to be a thing.

Yeah. I was just mentioning the track car thing giving a better idea of it's usage. I've seen street cars with frozen pins that smoke the rear brakes. But the fact that it's both sides generating the same heat issue is driving me crazy

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

but prop valves do limit front to rear though. i have said this already, they split the pressures front and rear like most oem prop valves do, they dont however limit side to side essentially, what they do is feed a certain pressure to the rear but its a split system, so each feed in feeds opposing calipers but at different pressures, look at this http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/proportioning-vlave-brake-upgrade.487800/

that link also means you can buy different valves to gain different effects, heck perhaps the evo prop valve might even be better or get the evo RS MC as im sure they have built in valves to do a better job

 

[lasthope05]

Ever though about running some ducting back there like the fronts?

You could easily mount a simple deflector plate to the rear trailing arm and cut a hole into backing plate.

 

[Drop Top Road Trip]

There might be something wrong in the front brakes, making the rears do more work than they should.

 

[gsxitement]

So I called RRE and talked to them. Chances are it's a combination of the pad compounds being different front and rear. Not sure what pads are in the rear brakes cause the pads came with the calipers. I'm gonna change the pads to a matching set and see how that works.

 

[spyderdrifter]

There might be something wrong in the front brakes, making the rears do more work than they should.

That's an idea I didn't even think of The rears could just be overworking.

 

[Murdertalon]

I'm sure you have looked over the regular maintenance issues probably, but when you change those rear pads wire brush the slides / slide bolts and grease the piss out of them. I had locking up / freezing rears on my car when I got it and it was because the prior owners neglected the brakes / looked like that last time someone did a brake job they didn't bother greasing anything and then drove around in the winter causing water to fill everything up then rust. So much rust. It took me two days to change the brakes. Why you ask? I didnt want to break any of the bolts! and it was quite touch and go with PB Blaster, heat and WD40. I used liberal amounts of grease putting my calipers back together and used anti seize on every bolt!

I generally use anti seize on everything, yes even wheel studs. There are camps of people against that because if you go into a shop that uses improper torquing equipment they could over torque your wheel studs. The solution I found to this is I do all my own work. Anti seize everything. Wire brush everything. I literally bought a dremel just for this car, so wire brush on a drill and for small bs bolts dremel.

 

[gsxitement]

I'm sure you have looked over the regular maintenance issues probably, but when you change those rear pads wire brush the slides / slide bolts and grease the piss out of them. I had locking up / freezing rears on my car when I got it and it was because the prior owners neglected the brakes / looked like that last time someone did a brake job they didn't bother greasing anything and then drove around in the winter causing water to fill everything up then rust. So much rust. It took me two days to change the brakes. Why you ask? I didnt want to break any of the bolts! and it was quite touch and go with PB Blaster, heat and WD40. I used liberal amounts of grease putting my calipers back together and used anti seize on every bolt!

I generally use anti seize on everything, yes even wheel studs. There are camps of people against that because if you go into a shop that uses improper torquing equipment they could over torque your wheel studs. The solution I found to this is I do all my own work. Anti seize everything. Wire brush everything. I literally bought a dremel just for this car, so wire brush on a drill and for small bs bolts dremel.

Evo brembos. No pins to lube .

 

[Brembo]

I generally use anti seize on everything, yes even wheel studs. There are camps of people against that because if you go into a shop that uses improper torquing equipment they could over torque your wheel studs. The solution I found to this is I do all my own work. Anti seize everything. Wire brush everything. I literally bought a dremel just for this car, so wire brush on a drill and for small bs bolts dremel.

I understood everything and agree with most but how does anti seize help torquing the wheels correctly? Its either you torque it or you dont. Studs is something that you should never grease up and caliper mounting bolts. I would not like if my lugs to get loose or the bolts that hold the calipers. Clean the tread with a chaser, clean or replace lugs and torque the wheels. Done

 

[Brembo]

And about some shops comment..........really? How many torque wrenches you own?

 

[Mello]

@Brembo I completely disagree with your suggest of not lubing your lug nuts or caliper, or for that matter any fastener. I lube all of mine before torquing for the same reason you have to do it for the head fasteners. Here's a video regarding proper lug nut torquing, which I completely agree with.

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[Brembo]

@Brembo I completely disagree with your suggest of not lubing your lug nuts or caliper, or for that matter any fastener. I lube all of mine before torquing for the same reason you have to do it for the head fasteners. Here's a video regarding proper lug nut torquing, which I completely agree with.

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Thank you so much for going out of your way to find a video but I am not convinced. Rotate your tire often and you won't have a problem. Plus on that euro crap you won't get the wheel off that easy. Half of them have so much corrosion that you need a hammer to bang of the wheel. That's where you apply grease on the hub ring that holds the wheel. Plus it's not mention anywhere where I have looked at. Anyways just an opinion. By the way I own 2 torque wrenches and 5 torque sticks and never use a straight gun and if have to use straight gun then I you can use 3 inch extensions. What I am getting at is that most folks don't own any tools but act like they have everything yet they will critize shops when they are too cheap to spend any money so they find something to complain about. Mean while they use a chisel to remove things.

I am done. I sorry for the negative comment. Please continue on with the brake issues. Curies to see the result if it will ever get solved. Thanks

 

[gsxitement]

I'm gonna chime in on this. I've been a mechanic for 29 years, and the most I'll do for lug nuts is a little WD-40 or PB to help protect the threads from binding on the way in. I can almost guarantee the only shops that use a torque wrench or torque stick is an up scale shop. The Infiniti dealership I worked at in '98 used torque sticks. Any other shops, including the NYC fleet service shop I work at now puts the gun on em. When you've been doing this as long as I have, you learn the sound of a tight wheel. And that's all I'm gonna say about that. I will post my results from Lime Rock and hopefully come up with an answer.

 

[Murdertalon]

I own 4 torque wrenches, one of each size mechanical and one digital 1/2" that gets used on motorcycle axles and engine heads. I don't use my impact gun on my wheel studs for final tighten anymore because I think it over torqued and warped the rotors on my lancer. (I still don't know if it was that for sure, but one of my friends mentioned it could have caused it)

So the anti seize theory goes.. I live in a state that sees a LOT of snow. I changed over to only using full cover lug nuts (gorilla currently) on all my cars because the rust gets so bad on them. I clean the studs and put anti seize on and my wheel studs no longer rust. I also lightly cover the top hat in anti seize in the winter (while switching over to winter rims) I had a rim that seized so badly on my lancer because I didn't get to clean it up that I had to loosen all lugs and drive it 10 feet and slam on the brakes to break the rim loose from rusting on. (after a severe beating with rubber mallet didn't produce results.)

Where this comes into play is that if your over torque wheel lugs it could warp your rotors and if you put it on your wheel lugs it could change the torque properties acting as lube.. or so I have been told which is an issue if your going nuts with a impact driver. I have a pretty good feel for final tightening my wheel studs with a socket wrench by hand, but never hurts to know what your looking for by using a torque wrench. After I mentioned anti seize and full covering lugs to some of my friends especially the guys I know that deliver pizza they all started doing it too. If you live in a warmer climate you probably don't see some of the horrors that we do here?

 

[gsxitement]

The only time I torque wheels is at the track. I live in NYC, and work on plows and salt/calcium chloride trucks. No anti seize on their lugs. We were expressly forbidden from putting anti-seize on anything wheel related. I tightened tens of thousands of wheels in my career with an impact gun. Never warped a rotor from it. But this is going away from the post. Do as you feel Necessary.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I worked at a Honda dealership back in 2014. They insisted using a torque wrench on lugs since they didn't want to supply torque sticks. Everyone still ran them down with a gun. Gun works just fine in the hands of a seasoned professional, not the hands of a new recruit.

We get a lot of snow here too, but thankfully the city uses sand instead of salt.