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Oops - Axles-splines under subframe after engine install. Simplest fix?

Posted by High PSI, Nov 17, 2019

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  1. High PSI

    High PSI Proven Member

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    Ok, just swapped a new longblock into my car. When I was pulling the motor/trans I was able to get the axles out of the way just by disconneting knuckle from the UCA and then pulling outwards.

    Unfortunately in my rush to get the motor/trans back in I left the axles hanging under the subframe. What is the best/simplest way to get the axle-splines up and around the subframe so I can get them into the trans? I see a few options, just looking for an opinion on whatver might be simplest. Keep in mind it's a New England car so every nut/bolt is a potential PITA to remove, hence why I'm asking before I just go to town with the impact.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Vdubzr32

    Vdubzr32 Proven Member

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    Either knock out the axle or take out the entire knuckle with the axle still attached.
     

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  3. tk106

    tk106 Supporting Member

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    You’ll need an impact to remove the axle but that might not even work. So you might have to remove the knuckle.
     

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  4. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    Remove the shock mounting and you may just be able to twist the compresssion arm around and get it over the mounting point
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2019

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  5. High PSI

    High PSI Proven Member

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    My concern as well. I'm thinking if I pull the axle I won't be able to pull the knuckle out/rotate it back enough to get both splines in.

    Shick mounting?
     
  6. ec17pse

    ec17pse Freelancer

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    bad spelling on my phone LOL. Shock. i edited it to be correct now
     

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  7. High PSI

    High PSI Proven Member

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    Thanks Bobby - I'll give that a go and update the thread with how I make out.
     
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  8. EVLGSX

    EVLGSX Proven Member

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    I wont do suspension work without a torch. Everyone who wants to work on cars should get themselves a small oxy/acetylene setup at least.
     

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  9. luv2rallye

    luv2rallye DSM Wiseman

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    Unbolt both the curved lower compression arm and the straight lateral arm from the chassis (leave both attached to knuckle). Also unbolt the strut fork from the straight lateral arm. This will allow you to swing the axle out far enough to put in.
     

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  10. High PSI

    High PSI Proven Member

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    OK, I got the driver side in...but I cheated a bit. I was installing a Moroso 6-bolt pan anyway, so when I had the OEM pan off I was able to squeeze the axle between the subframe and oil-pickup. No cheats for the passenger side, however - and the axle needs to come out waaayy further to swing into the trans.

    I think this is what I will end up trying. By leaving the lower arms connected to the knuckle I won't have to deal with the ball joints (and risk tearing the boots with a pickle fork).
     
  11. High PSI

    High PSI Proven Member

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    I don't trust myself with fire, especially as much of the bottom of the car is still coated with oil from the cause of the engine failure in the first place (corroded oil-cooler line cracking/splitting off OFH at full song, which then shot a hard stream of oil out the side of the engine). And I've nicely POR-15d all of my suspension components and don't think they would take the heat.

    If worse comes to worst, I'm more of a cut-off-wheel and replace it kind of guy.
     
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  12. nite owl

    nite owl Probationary Member

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    Look at it this way; with all that oil on the underside, you have a nice undercoating for those New England winters...
     
  13. High PSI

    High PSI Proven Member

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    OK, I got it in. For anyone stuck in the same situation that I was, this is what worked for me on the passenger side:

    Almost had to unbolt the tie-rod end from the knuckle, but with the wheel turned full lock and enough muscle I was able to get it up and around the subframe.

    Thanks again Gary.
     

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