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Oil pump timing is off?

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Calan

DSM Wiseman
7,250
398
Jan 16, 2007
OKC, Oklahoma
I started tearing into the front end of my motor for a t-belt replacement, and found this:

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Aside from the obvious oil leak problems, notice the timing mark on the oil pump (I rotated the crank through several revolutions, and this is as close as it gets at TDC). Apparently the previous owner or engine shop didn't set this correctly (not surprising given the other issues).

What kind of problems could this cause? Could it have led to the oil leak, which I think is around the main seal? Probably accounts for some of my vibration I had?

My B/S are removed BTW

EDIT:

While I'm on the subject, my tensioner and tensioner pulleys "seemed" fine... almost new. No visible wear and as tight as the new ones I just got. I'm guessing they were replaced by the PO when the engine was rebuilt 10-15k ago and this ^^ fine job was done. :)

Should I replace them with the new parts anyway, or return the new ones and save the $150?
 

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If the balance shafts are removed, timing of the oil pump sprocket shouldn't matter since it just a stub shaft. If the shafts are in, timing it properly keeps the front bs ans rear bs in time to reduce vibration.

When i removed my balance shafts, I didnt notice any more vibration than normal.

As far as the tensioner and pulleys......don't risk it. Put the new ones on, and donate the old ones to your neighborhood garbage man.
 
If your balance shafts have been properly removed, the oil pump sprocket does not need to be timed. All your doing is timing the balance shaft if its there, if there is no shaft, it no longer needs to be timed. The oil pump pumps no matter what.

Get new timing components.
 
Ok.. I broke down in SC on my way to FL from NJ..

I needed a new waterpump and I had a guy do it.
The test drive didn't go well. I said the balance shaft had to be wrong. The motor didn't sound right at all.

So now I have driven the car about 500miles like the picture above. I know they set the timing off on the sproket a bit cause they marked it.

SOOO NOW... my issues is when it comes to tuning. I can get the tune nice, except my timing its not smooth at all. And I have a problem getting the car past 4500k no matter how much I change the fuel. Its either a 02 of .94 or more around that time, but I get my nice .89 before 4000k
Could this be my problem.??? I dont think I can fix the oil/bs timing myself I'm not to sure of myself getting all that done with or without a lift.

Someone ideas please!!
 
I do not have a b/s in my 6 bolt.I do not have to time my oil pump at all then. I have to loosen up my t belt to put a plug in. And i do not want to do a timming belt. To much work in that if i can get the plug in with out doing a t belt would be a lot better.
 
no, your problems are not bs related, though you should fix it

your problem is "tuning" with a stock O2.

All .94 is telling you is you are somewhere less than 14.7 AFR. It could be 14.6 or 2.5
 
From the picture you gave us, it looks like the balance shaft has been removed, due to the lack of a belt and just a bolt in where the other balance shaft sproket should be. So having th pump out of phase doesn't matter.
 
With no balance shafts all you need to do is time the crank with the cams. Oil pump timing does not matter. As for the tensioner that is the most likely cause of a timing belt to slip. If the tensioner looses tension from being old or whatever the case, the belt will become loose then could slip and you could bend valves, damage pistons, etc. It's a personal choice, if you want to reuse the old one it could be good for 1000's of miles, or it could go bad tomorrow, you don't know. If I was changing my timing belt I would just use the new tensioner. But it's your choice.
 
With no balance shafts all you need to do is time the crank with the cams. Oil pump timing does not matter. As for the tensioner that is the most likely cause of a timing belt to slip. If the tensioner looses tension from being old or whatever the case, the belt will become loose then could slip and you could bend valves, damage pistons, etc. It's a personal choice, if you want to reuse the old one it could be good for 1000's of miles, or it could go bad tomorrow, you don't know. If I was changing my timing belt I would just use the new tensioner. But it's your choice.

i have new belt.. bought a rebuilt motor with the timing set wrong.. woudnt even run for more that a second..

i set the crank pulley to the T marking on the cover.. is this right?
 
i have new belt.. bought a rebuilt motor with the timing set wrong.. woudnt even run for more that a second..

i set the crank pulley to the T marking on the cover.. is this right?

You don't use the crank pulley and timing cover to set the timing. There is a mark on the plate that separates the crank and balance shaft sprocket that lines up with a mark on the oil pump/front cover.
 
i have new belt.. bought a rebuilt motor with the timing set wrong.. woudnt even run for more that a second..

i set the crank pulley to the T marking on the cover.. is this right?

Start by making sure the dowel pins and timing marks line up on the cams, then there is a mark on the crankshaft sprocket that should line up with a mark on the block so it is at TDC. Use this link for a reference if you need it. :thumb: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/214625-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html
 
Holy thread revival!

This brings back memories... and makes me wonder again what ever happened to Bruce (Oldman).

GoldÐiamond;153057635 said:
Oh, the thread looked weird like he was posting for someone else.

Nope. That was me posting a newb question right after I started working on the bottom end of the Talon for the first time! :)
 
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