The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

  • Update Your Password Today!

    We have implemented tools to identify member accounts using insecure passwords and will be locking those accounts until their passwords are updated. Don't get locked out of your account - update your password today, and ensure your account has a valid email address on file. Read more here...
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Rix Racing

2G Oil Pan leaking after numerous attempts


Proven Member
Apr 27, 2014
Honolulu, Hawaii
Alright I recently rebuilt a 97 Gst (7 bolt) and have installed the Oil Pan at least 4 times.. at first it was leaking near the oil pump then, it leaked on the pump (fixed that with OEM mitsubishi pump gasket from STM) now it leaks by the Flywheel.. I am fallowing it to spec I think.. I am using Permatex "the good stuff" is there any tricks or Ideas with the install that I may not see according the haynes manual? thanks
I highly advise torquing the pan right after installation and not let the rtv harden at all before tightening the pan. You are not using it as a gasket, you are just using it to fill in any imperfections. When you torque it immediately you squeeze out all the excess than what remains seals. Most all service manuals, including mitsubishi, honda, and so on recommend doing it this way. If you let it skin over like some like to do than you are not getting full adhesion to both sides. The most important thing here is to clean both surfaces well. A little left over rtv isn't a real big deal, but oil on the surface will totally kill the seal. What i do is drop the pan and let it sit for a day or 2 for all oil to drip out. Than i will take a...


10+ Year Contributor
Sep 7, 2008
Edmonton, AB_Canada
you must properly clean off the block flange and oil pan flange of any grease/oil with varsol or toluene or other type of "thinner" BEFORE you apply the RTV. failure to do this will result in a leak.
even if it looks like bare metal, just wipe it with the "thinner" and the RTV will have a much better chance of sticking and sealing.


DSM Wiseman
Mar 23, 2008
Surprise, Arizona
I always use a new oil pan, clean the block flange with a wire brush and brake cleaner, and use the right stuff. No leaks. Also, there is no oem oil pan gasket, it's sealed from the factory with rtv.


Proven Member
Mar 1, 2014
Warwick, Rhode_Island
Also for what it's worth 3m's three bond is cheaper and I believe they make mitsu bond, Honda bond etc.


Supporting Member
Apr 7, 2011
Overland Park, Kansas
One thing that may help is to run the rtv on the inside of the bolt holes (motor side) this will help it from leaking at the bolt holes. But like others have said, make sure the pan is flat and that both surfaces are clean of oil. I always torque mine down in a pattern like you would torquing down a head so that the pan is sitting even all the way around. Then I let it sit for at least 24 hours before start up and driving. Good luck man!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds