No matter what I do, my oil pan is always leaking!

[KianaLynn]

Alright so here’s a back story. Before the motor rebuild, I never had a problem with my oil pan leaking. After the motor rebuild, it would leak constantly. I’ve tried using a gasket with sealant, and just sealant. But it still continues to leak. Before the motor rebuild I’ve used a gasket with the sealant and never had a problem. So after trying it both ways, I decided to order a new oil pan. Just to eliminate the oil pan being a problem. I always made sure that my oil pans were flat before putting it back on. But now, I can’t seem to stop it from leaking no matter what I do. And it’s onlt leaking on the timing belt side. So I investigated that area a little more and discovered that my valve cover was leaking right behind the cam gears so I took care of that. I also noticed that the oil pressure unit was leaking so I got that replaced as well. It’s getting pretty close to the next oil change and I wanted to see if anyone has suggestions on what else I could do and if there’s any preferences on what should be used.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Just pokin fun my friend! Glad to have your advice, it doesn't matter where it comes from!
M

 

[ricktb]

Yes both surfaces must be flat (a bent oilpan replaced), and clean(scrape off old gasket), and then no gasket only rtv 1/4" bead on the oilpan side with a loop around each bolt hole, then using studs in 2 places as a guide to place the oil pan perfectly in place. Finger tight the bolts for 24 hours, then torque the next day. If the holes are stripped they may need to be retapped or heli-coiled

 

[LindsayVR4]

It sounds like you’re doing everything right on the sump itself tbh. I think there’s a leak from further up, might even be cam seals installed wrong, or oil pump bolts or something. Doesn’t seem like the sump is the issue unless it’s cracked and you’ve put a new one in. Could be a hairline crack in the lower section of the block, but unlikely. Testing it with a die sounds like a good move at this point.

 

[lelt2jv]

Everything everyone else said - but I did an actual circle of sealant around the bolt holes for good measure

I hate leaks

 

[KianaLynn]

Just to confirm, this is a 4g63 platform and not a 420a you're working on correct? I ask because I have a 99 GS in addition to my GSX, and the 420a blocks have a bed plate design. Upon rebuilding my 420a several years ago (broken timing belt) upon first assembly and startup in the car I had a pretty bad leak between the block and bed plate. This may not pertain to you at all, but throwing it out there just in case...

yes its a 4g63

 

[KianaLynn]

I did a little bit of inspection today because my dsm has been bellowing white smoke for the last couple of weeks (its been confirmed its a bad pcv valve) but my question is: could a plugged pcv valve cause enough pressure to push oil out of the pan?

 

[dustyboner]

you want to always have a slightly negative pressure in the crankcase. any positive pressure will try and equalize with atmospheric pressure. This will cause flow from the region of high pressure toward the lower pressure region (aka wind).

Basically,

- a vacuum in crankcase (inward flow) will help keep seals and gaskets from leaking​

- pressure in the crankcase (outward flow) will increase the chances gaskets/seals leaking and can also cause the turbo seals to leak because the turbo oil return to not flow properly.​

 

[SamuelValentine]

If it’s always leaking make sure it’s not bent anywhere around the bolts or the part of the pan that touches the engine at all, but if it has been bent I’d suggest using a cork gasket installation since they tend to be thicker. I have a YouTube video on how to prep the gasket so it won’t pinch and will make replacement a breeze!

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[bastarddsm]

Lot of posts I'm not gonna read, but did anyone mention the bolt in the oil pump for the balancer shaft tensioner. Leaks if you don't silicone that one. Deleted or not.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

Lot of posts I'm not gonna read, but did anyone mention the bolt in the oil pump for the balancer shaft tensioner. Leaks if you don't silicone that one. Deleted or not.

This guy right here your talking about correct? I think it was mentioned but heres a visual of mine . Never anything wrong with to much info !

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[bastarddsm]

Yep that one there. I dunno why it leaks, the bolts in a blind hole, and gasket around it, but it does.

 

[fredom dsm]

I’ve been working on this since Saturdayas well, im leting the oil drain until I see no more, (it will probably take a whole week) I was cleaning my bolts today and I got to thinking, what if you use studs?? Would this overkill since the original bolts don’t see any stress? I just thought about that. Im tired of this danm leak my self.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

I’ve been working on this since Saturdayas well, im leting the oil drain until I see no more, (it will probably take a whole week) I was cleaning my bolts today and I got to thinking, what if you use studs?? Would this overkill since the original bolts don’t see any stress? I just thought about that. Im tired of this danm leak my self.

Seems like overkill imo, a couple studs to help align it wouldn't hurt but I feel like it would be harder to line up with all the bolts turned into studs.

Dont forget about the smaller bolt under the timing belt .

Maybe take a straight edge to the flange and see how big a feeler gauge you can get between the flange and straight edge .

Might be good to get some dye and a uv light to see where its coming from.