Oil overfull...Where did it come from? Help Fast please!

[EagleTalonTim]

I just recently rebuilt the head on my 93 turbo and put everything back together according to the book. Other than the posts I have already done on here, I found yet another problem. I changed the oil with 5 quarts Castrol GTX 10x30 and a Fram oil filter. After 4 quarts, i run the engine for about a minute and shut it off. Then i checked the dipstick and it was exactly 1 quart low. After putting about 30 miles on the rebuilt head, I checked the dipstick again and it is 1 quart over. I pulled the drain plug out and caught a little oil in my hand to see if there was any water in it. What came out looked like the old oil that I originally drained from it. I am not sure if it was just oil or if there was water in it. It did not look like water to me. Just black oil. I torqued the head to 68ft pounds which is right in the middle of what the book says...64 to 72 foot pounds. The car is not smoking. Any ideas?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Ok, no one even viewed this thread. that is ok. after taking samples of the oil, I found there is gas in it. Not sure where it is coming from now. got to do a compression test and see what all may be going wrong. That would probably explain the boost leak, slight overheating, low oil pressure, and bad lifter tap. Getting ready to drop alot more money into it.....yay. One question though....will a N/T head fit the same and work as a turbo head? As far as i know everything looks the same.

 

[jking29]

Yes, they are the same head. Why did you pull the head off originally? What were the symptoms to make you pull the head? What did you do to the head while you had it off? You need to find out where the gas is coming from before you do any unneccessary work.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

I originally pulled the head because it had 2 bent intake valves when i bought it. I took it to a head shop to put the valve springs back in and get the head milled. I was trying to save money and that is all i did. I should have gotten a pressure test on the head.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

will a N/T head fit on a Turbo motor with no changes? Of course, i am going to change the cams and lifters.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

You probably have coolant in your oil. Drain your oil and look at if. If it's milky then, that sucks.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

no, there is no coolant. the oil smells like gas and is really runny like old oil that lost it's texture. It is fresh oil with a little over 30 miles on it. I am not sure if it is a problem with the rings or a cracked head. still waiting on the money to get a compression tester.

 

[jking29]

You really need to diagnose this a little more before pulling the head again. How was the car running for the 30 miles you put on it? Autozone has compression testers as part of their loan-a-tool program. Leave a deposit and get it back when you return it. Also Harbor Freight has them for about $10. Do a compression test before going any further. Also, the only thing different between the N/A head and the turbo head is the cams.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

ok...i will post back when i do a compression test.

 

[MyÜberFastGSX]

Yea, if your rings aren't seated right you can get gas in your oil. No good, don't run the car.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

would the car still run good if the rings are not seated right? Never had this problem before.

 

[PSITSI]

Running your car like that is probably washing down the cylinders if you are just running super rich, and having an oil pan full of gas certainly isn't doing your bearings any favors.

 

[spitfireskatr7]

I just recently rebuilt the head on my 93 turbo and put everything back together according to the book. Other than the posts I have already done on here, I found yet another problem. I changed the oil with 5 quarts Castrol GTX 10x30 and a Fram oil filter. After 4 quarts, i run the engine for about a minute and shut it off. Then i checked the dipstick and it was exactly 1 quart low. After putting about 30 miles on the rebuilt head, I checked the dipstick again and it is 1 quart over. I pulled the drain plug out and caught a little oil in my hand to see if there was any water in it. What came out looked like the old oil that I originally drained from it. I am not sure if it was just oil or if there was water in it. It did not look like water to me. Just black oil. I torqued the head to 68ft pounds which is right in the middle of what the book says...64 to 72 foot pounds. The car is not smoking. Any ideas?

yea i would def. do a compression test and go from there...i wouldn't run the car until you figure it out,sounds like the rings, and also 64/72 ft lbs is lubricated and not lubricated spec, not a range

 

[EagleTalonTim]

then what is should the head be torqued to? I have torqued my other motors to that and it worked fine till i eventually drove the motors to the ground If it is the rings, should i go with stock rings or are there better ones out there?

 

[jking29]

Don't get too far ahead of yourself. Do a compression test and also a wet test with a capfull of oil in each cylinder to see if compression improves. When you torqued the head, did you install the bolts dry or lubricated?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

Lubricated. I have never heard of a cap full of oil in each cylinder, but i will try that today

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

no, there is no coolant. the oil smells like gas and is really runny like old oil that lost it's texture. It is fresh oil with a little over 30 miles on it. I am not sure if it is a problem with the rings or a cracked head. still waiting on the money to get a compression tester.

That right there should tell you something. If your oil smells like gas it is because combustion gas and/or raw fuel is getting by the rings and into the oil. You can address the head problem but once you get that fixed your rings are still going to be leaking. I would address it all at once. As far as rings go stock works great but if you wanna go aftermarket I recommend Total Seal.

 

[Splitpi]

Did you replace the OE head bolts with new ones or use ARP studs when you replaced the head?

 

[EagleTalonTim]

no, i used the stock head bolts like i have done with the other motors i have rebuilt.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

HIGHLY recommended to change the stock bolts as well. They are very prone to stretching especially on turbocharged DSM's. Not saying that's the problem but for $100 ARP's are cheap insurance.

 

[Splitpi]

no, i used the stock head bolts like i have done with the other motors i have rebuilt.

By used the stock head bolts, do you mean new stock head bolts or re-used the old stock head bolts? If reused, that is a no no as they are prone to stretch and should be considered one time use only items once torqued. But that may or may not be the problem you are having.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

i used the one's i pulled out. They were actually different than the ones i have pulled out of other 4G63 motors. they were 8 point 12mm bolts instead of the 10mm allen. First for me.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Then they were replaced with hardware store bolts which is a huge no no. Hardware bolts aren't made to stretch so they just break. Now you NEED to replace them.

 

[EagleTalonTim]

When i pulled the head off of the car, it still had the stock head gasket on it. I don't think the head was ever pulled off the car. Where is a good place to get head bolts?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=17027&cat=553&page=1

Select that headgasket and then get a set of ARP head studs on the bottom. Someone probably changed them out because they figured that since they are grade 12 bolts or whatever they are stronger. Which has nothing to do with it. Stronger also means more brittle and less likely to stretch and more likely to just break under heat and pressure.