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Oil in the coolant. Help. NOT HEADGASKET

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Nick2gGST

10+ Year Contributor
518
0
Jun 29, 2009
Punta Gorda, Florida
So I had my headgasket done by a "reputable" (crappy shop). So everything was done right. I looked at it and the radiator cap has oil on top of it and on the elbow above the thermostat circled in picture below. The oil in my coolant is brand new oil i know, its not a milky color its not burnt its fresh oil. Also this happened right around the time I had my heater core bypassed, which was done by a REAL shop. I'm going to fix this car, EVERYTHING will be fixed then I'm going to sell it so if anyone wants it PM me. It's not overheating or anything its running perfect other then the oil thing.
 
I looked all night I can't find an oil cooler (unless it's under a different name) and mitsubishi is closed today. Damnit.

You aren't going to find one at a parts store. Dealership, salvage yard, or another owner.

PS Did you ever resolve this oil leak? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/343143-oil-taking-leak.html

Because I could have sworn I mentioned something about not tightening down that bolt in the center too tight or you will have OIL IN YOUR COOLANT. Post #15 of that thread btw.
 
Can't I pretty much lossen the oil filter until it starts to drip and see if there's oil and water mixxed in what comes out? I'm not sure how I would inspect it without taking off the cooler, is it possible?
 
yes pressurize the cooling system with a pressure tester and that will tell you where its leaking from.
 
It's not leaking................It's internal.

If its leaking... its external. Otherwise you wouldn't SEE it leaking. Why do you have that cap anyway? OEM radiator cap sir, you already said that thing doesn't hold pressure.... so why do you still have it? Take that thing back to the shop and show them what they broke. Bring a brick with you though, they tend to act like there is no possible way in the world they could break something.

Replace the thermostat seal, rtv or whatever you need to to get it sealed correctly. Change the Cap. Check the oil housing, pressure the cooling system. Then you should be closer to the fix. You are posting wayyyyyyy too much to be actually doing all of the suggestions in this thread. Take your time.
 
Well appearently you are NOT reading thoroughly. It IS leaking internally, i CAN'T see anything leaking out because there is nothing coming out of the car it is oil going into my cooling system, not onto the ground....and I don't still have the cap, once I found out it was leaking I stopped driving the car (last night) I'm bringing the cap back to the store and getting another one for free. The thermostat gasket is leaking OIL only, and most likely because them mixing has made it very thin. Again it's leaking internally via most likely a crushed oil cooler. I unscrewed the oil filter a little just to get a small drop of oil to inspect it, it does seem like there is some coolant mixed in it. Hard to tell how to inspect the cooler...That's my only questions, How do I inspect it? And where can i get another one besides the dealer? Also a replacement guide would be helpful I can't find one in the search anywhere.
 
I'm new to dsm and its poor designs.
ok. Why dont you loop the lines going to the cooler so its bypassed and if thats the problem get a 90 oil cooler setup or a forward facing filter bracket for like 25 bucks. Im done here im getting a headache
 
poor designs or the person working on it?

I concur.

There's oil on the OUTSIDE of the cap, yet your saying it's internal? Apparently you don't know the definition of some words. I have read this entire thread. There are PLENTY of oil cooler's for sale in the classifieds. If that is your only question, then buy a new one and call it a day. It's not hard to inspect it at all. Lay a piece of cardboard or a piece of paper or your undirty shirt (just guessing) on the ground overnight and see if it leaks. What else do you want us to tell you with your lack of knowledge, experience, pictures, and info. It's difficult for you, yes. But far more difficult for us to diagnose the problem with lack of... I guess I will say EVERYTHING.

Buy a manual, or buy a honda. Crying is not reputable around here. We gave you suggestions. Can you honestly say YOU read them all and have TRIED them all?
 
frankenstein...yes poor design...other then r-sport working on my car everyone else was professional. Who designs a oil cooler you have to worry about over tightening your filter on? Who else has crankwalk on there cars? I'm not saying it's a bad car...but yes poor design.

rEclipse your an asshole for trying to piss me off when it was very unnecessary, I work on my own cars when I can most of the time it's too damn hot i live in Florida and have no garage. PLUS I like to get my work done professionally so that I can have a warranty on labor, makes life easier. I'm never buying a honda I'm quite all set with that...and you saying buy a honda, basically accusing me of being some ricey loser? I ain't crying ...just trying to ask you "professionals" the technical terms of a oil filter bracket...which nobody still knows...seriously I'm not in a great mood if you can't be cool about this then take a ####ing hike.
 
I have read this entire thread. There are PLENTY of oil cooler's for sale in the classifieds. If that is your only question, then buy a new one and call it a day. It's not hard to inspect it at all. Lay a piece of cardboard or a piece of paper or your undirty shirt (just guessing) on the ground overnight and see if it leaks. What else do you want us to tell you with your lack of knowledge, experience, pictures, and info. It's difficult for you, yes. But far more difficult for us to diagnose the problem with lack of... I guess I will say EVERYTHING.

First Time ever quoting myself. Learn to read and learn to fix cars buddy. Good luck
 
I know how to read and what I'm saying is your pissing me off and trying to sit here and tell me I don't know shit about cars because I don't want to work on cars myself on 120 degree f pavement? That'll be all you don't need to say anymore, go post elsewhere.
 
well you have hi pressure oil going into the low pressure coolent.
There is only a few ways this can be done, 1 the bad oil cooler you have been told about, 2 poristity leak through the block/head oil gally ports into the coolent, or 3 when the one shop had your head surfaced it was not done correctly and where the oil passes from the block to the head a scratch in the surface from the oil trough to a coolent passage, 4 if you have a water cooled turbo, a oil pasage from the oil to water is cracked.
 
well all the work done was professionally, the machine shop that did my head is a great shop, that work was done a month ago. If it was anything to do with the head wouldn't it have showed a while back rather then just the past few days? I have the t25 turbo but I'm not losing any boost, if that was busted would I lose boost at all?
 
well all the work done was professionally, the machine shop that did my head is a great shop, that work was done a month ago. If it was anything to do with the head wouldn't it have showed a while back rather then just the past few days? I have the t25 turbo but I'm not losing any boost, if that was busted would I lose boost at all?

a month, then this starts? well if they have copper coated the gasket, then the coat could have been pushed out of the scratch,

during driving the head , block and HG expand and contract with the heat cycling so there is movement between the parts.

How was the head surfaced?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

YouTube - Resurfacing an Aluminum Cylinder Head
 
Change your oil cooler out or loop your coolant lines where they meet to your oil cooler. I had the same problem as you a while back, i was getting oil in my coolant but no coolant in my oil. Is the car smoking? If not please just do what i said and you will be happy with the results. I have went over this thread and i am 99% sure that is your problem. When you said someone had tightened your bolt on the housing that threw flags right there. That bolt has to be torqued down to i believe 20lbs or so any over that and you will crush it. Also make sure to use loctite RED on the bolt and you will be good to go.
 
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