2G Oil feed leaking off the head then bolt snaps.

[kthackst]

Ok so I'll start from the beginning.

I reinstalled my oil feed line off the head just like a 1g. But it kept leaking like crazy at boost. So tonight I decided it was the crush washers. I replaced them and still leaking like crazy at boost. So I decide to tighten the banjo bolt to 20ft lb thinking I didn't crush the copper washers properly. Well I snapped 2 oil feed banjo bolts!!! WTF is 20 ftlb too much. I can't imagine a crush washer working below that. It never felt like it was getting tight. It would just snap. I was using a craftsman torque wrench to check torque. I just ordered an extremepsi off the oil filter housing feed kit so I hope that works.

Does any one know what I did wrong. Or does anyone have that little block off plug I could use since I lost mine after i installed the 1g oil feed kit.

 

[mcneilmg]

Ok so I'll start from the beginning.

I reinstalled my oil feed line off the head just like a 1g. But it kept leaking like crazy at boost. So tonight I decided it was the crush washers. I replaced them and still leaking like crazy at boost. So I decide to tighten the banjo bolt to 20ft lb thinking I didn't crush the copper washers properly. Well I snapped 2 oil feed banjo bolts!!! WTF is 20 ftlb too much. I can't imagine a crush washer working below that. It never felt like it was getting tight. It would just snap. I was using a craftsman torque wrench to check torque. I just ordered an extremepsi off the oil filter housing feed kit so I hope that works.

Does any one know what I did wrong. Or does anyone have that little block off plug I could use since I lost mine after i installed the 1g oil feed kit.

Did you over tighten the fitting harming the taper so that it now leaks? Maybe pipe dope can help seal the leak? I just made a new stainless steal oil feed line going from the top of the turbo down to the oil sending unit and I accidentally used a double bubble instead of an ISO at the oil sending unit. Tommorow it will be dealt with and I will be able to test drive the car with the header and o2 housing on it. Im sure youll be riding along in no time. good luck---Mike

Im curious did this new oil line come with kit off the internet. I had bad experiance with the pil line a company gave me which is based out of California. I purcahse the head and o2 housing kit from them and some things I could not use.

 

[RamenPride]

I'm surprised you didn't mess up the threads in the head first before the bolt snapped. You could always try to helicoil it. Are you using a stock 1G oil feed line? That's what I'm using and I don't remember having to tighten it that much. I don't even think I used a torque wrench.

 

[johnmarines]

I don't even think I used a torque wrench.

I didnt have to either.

 

[kthackst]

@mcneilmg. it is a metric thread since its a banjo bolt. Its an M10x1.25. The issue is not proper thread its why does the bolt keep snapping.

@RamenPride. It did not mess up the threads at all in the head. Just kept tightening the oil feed bolt and it would snap before it even got tight.

I didnt have to either.

After the first one snapped I used a torque wrench to make sure I wasnt accidentally over torqueing and found it wasnt even hitting 20ftlb...

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Where did you get your oil feed line? Was it OEM or was it an ebay kit?

I was just looking at the Factory service manual and I couldn't find the torque specs for where it bolts to the head but I found the torque specs for where the other end of the line blots to the turbo, and all the other banjo bolts on the turbo, which is 25-30 ft. lbs.

I can't imagine the head bolt being much (if any) less since they are all banjo bolts with the same crush washers. Therefore you aren't over torquing it so my conclusion is that it is a very cheap bolt.

 

[kthackst]

one was an aftermarket and the one was a reused OEM. My guess is the OEM was stretched and the aftermarket was cheap.

Yeah the chilton didnt have a torque value either...

 

[19Eclipse90]

You are over torquing the bolt. Correct torque for the oil line to the head banjo bolt is 14-19 Nm or 10-14 ft.lbs. Being a banjo bolt (hole through the bolt shank), the maximum torque of the bolt is dramatically reduced. It does not take much after 14 ft.lbs. to snap the bolt.

My oil line to head bolt was leaking over the summer and I thought it was the OEM line being bent. After failing to stop the leak by bending it, I purchased a SS line with new bolts and installed it. That didn't stop the leak. So I put thread sealer on the bolt. That didn't stop the leak. What ended up happening, at least I think, was the vibrations from the engine (Prothane motor mounts) were loosening the bolt; the bolt was loose(r) and the line was rotated more and more each time I opened the hood. I put some thread locker on the bolt and have not had a problem since.

 

[Indian]

If you need to get new banjo bolts, Forced performance is where I got mine.

 

[dsmgreddy]

+1 to FP, the dealer charges $26 for that bolt.

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