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1G OFH oil feed location?

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CrawlinZX14

10+ Year Contributor
502
4
Sep 7, 2011
Carpentersville, Illinois
Which port is it for the filtered oil off the OFH to feed the journal bearing turbo?
I searched yesterday and this morning and can't seem to find the thread that had the picture in it. I thought it was the middle one between the low pressure light sensor and the bottom one but I want to be sure.

Or would feeding from the head be enough for a PTE SCM 50trim?
I am running a -10 an return tube, as well, so my question is, will the head be enough, or do I need to use the OFH. And if so, which port should I use?

Its a 91 TSi AWD with coolant lines going into the OFH as well. IDK if that will help.

Thanks
J
Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk
 
Mine look so much cleaner than those do. LOL.

Now that looks like the restrictor is inside the housing before the fitting was installed, would that be better than putting the restrictor inline with the filter?

I honestly think my oil pressure is lower to begin with, but I have yet to install my oil pressure gauge to verify. I have been holding out to get an electrical one as opposed to the mechanical one I have sitting on a shelf since I would rather not have oil plumbed into the passenger compartment.
 
So I finally got it all put together today. Took a little time to remember that my eprom was programmed to accept the 2g maf and I kept the maft on 1g. So after fixing that and a leaking trans line, she is runnin nicely. Now just to bead roll my pipes so they stay where they should. Hahaha. Blow a pipe off 3 times already. There is a fair turbo lag right now, but it was to be expected with this 50 trim. Def a huge power increase and performance increase. Next weekend is to notch out the sub bumper and get it ready to go back on.


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So I finally got it all put together today. Took a little time to remember that my eprom was programmed to accept the 2g maf and I kept the maft on 1g. So after fixing that and a leaking trans line, she is runnin nicely. Now just to bead roll my pipes so they stay where they should. Hahaha. Blow a pipe off 3 times already. There is a fair turbo lag right now, but it was to be expected with this 50 trim. Def a huge power increase and performance increase. Next weekend is to notch out the sub bumper and get it ready to go back on.


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Gratz man, tie up the loose ends you will love that turbo.:hellyeah:
 
im diggin the turbo already. No so much my SSQ bov, but it was a freebie, so it will work until I can get my synapse one in. Im not fond of the flutter the SSQ gives. I always worry about boost surge with that. Once I get the pipes bead rolled this weekend, I should be able to figure out why im spiking a bit still too I hope. I will hopefully get the sub bumper notched and rewelded all back up no problem this weekend tho. I plan to make an A duct to feed the upper part of the intercooler clean air in it, but I want to add some reinforcement because of removing material to notch it.
 
Mine look so much cleaner than those do. LOL.
2g that sat for three years salt-covered in a leaky garage. Pretty much every bolt on the body has broken off thus far...but whatcha gonna do. :ohdamn:

Now that looks like the restrictor is inside the housing before the fitting was installed, would that be better than putting the restrictor inline with the filter?
In my example the restrictor is in the base of the fitting itself. If your filter has a restrictor (like the one that Forced Performance markets) then you wouldn't need any additional restriction.
I honestly think my oil pressure is lower to begin with, but I have yet to install my oil pressure gauge to verify. I have been holding out to get an electrical one as opposed to the mechanical one I have sitting on a shelf since I would rather not have oil plumbed into the passenger compartment.
You may be fine as-is. Our cars just have such a pressure difference between the filter housing and the head it's not even funny; one can fatally drown the cartridge, the other can be fatal by not giving it enough pressure.

Every thread I see where someone's installing an aftermarket turbo which never came on a DSM- I try to stress that they need to check pressure and match it to the pressure required by the turbo's manufacturer. If you just throw the turbo on and don't monitor pressure, it may be fine...it may not. You're better to be on the winning end. ;)

Make sure your oil drain is ample-sized and doesn't have any kinks as well. :thumb:
 
Well my drain is a -10an. I have a 45* fitting off the turbo to clear the lower motor mount, then it has a soft loop to a strait fitting into the pan. If weather permits I will grab some pix tomorrow when I get home, it will be to late tonight. I think I'm going to buy an inline fitting so I can monitor the oil pressure going into the turbo. Similar to an in line fuel pressure fitting. Just need to get some copper tubing as the nylon will not handle the heat that close to the mani. I have a few 1inch gauges I'm installing above the radio to help with monitoring.

On another note, can anyone tell me the purpose of the bi metallic valve on the T stat housing. Its the one with 2 vac lines coming off it. Mine is broke off has been since I bought the car. Want to mount my temp sending unit there ideally, but wanna make sure its only evap or something before I remove it.


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Well my drain is a -10an. I have a 45* fitting off the turbo to clear the lower motor mount, then it has a soft loop to a strait fitting into the pan. If weather permits I will grab some pix tomorrow when I get home, it will be to late tonight.
Sounds fine as long as it's not able to kink there in that loop entering the pan.
I think I'm going to buy an inline fitting so I can monitor the oil pressure going into the turbo. Similar to an in line fuel pressure fitting. Just need to get some copper tubing as the nylon will not handle the heat that close to the mani. I have a few 1inch gauges I'm installing above the radio to help with monitoring.
You can make it temporary for sure- once the pressure is logged, it doesn't ever change. It will give you a firm idea as to whether any restriction is needed for sure, which is a huge step in the right direction.
On another note, can anyone tell me the purpose of the bi metallic valve on the T stat housing. Its the one with 2 vac lines coming off it. Mine is broke off has been since I bought the car. Want to mount my temp sending unit there ideally, but wanna make sure its only evap or something before I remove it.
EGR function. If you've done the EGR block-off, you can absolutely remove that valve from the housing and replace it with a 3/8" pipe plug for a much cleaner appearance. If you haven't done the EGR block-off, you should do the EGR block-off. LOL
 
EGR has not been hooked up since I bought the car. So thats no biggie. I was thinking about installing a temp gauge in the spot the valve was. I have some 1.25" gauges I want to install over the radio, so better to monitor everything. We all know the stock gauges are crap. So time to work on monitoring everything before any more add ons. I am going to get some pix up today ideally of the new setup installed.

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Some basic pix
 

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Had to pull my MBC, and since then she is boosting great to about 15psi. I want to replace my BOV tho. I am getting far to much surge with this one unless im hard into the boost. And its the "new" HKS SSQ design so there is no adjustment screws, so I think its time to order my Synapse BOV.
 
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