1G OFH oil feed location?

[CrawlinZX14]

Which port is it for the filtered oil off the OFH to feed the journal bearing turbo?
I searched yesterday and this morning and can't seem to find the thread that had the picture in it. I thought it was the middle one between the low pressure light sensor and the bottom one but I want to be sure.

Or would feeding from the head be enough for a PTE SCM 50trim?
I am running a -10 an return tube, as well, so my question is, will the head be enough, or do I need to use the OFH. And if so, which port should I use?

Its a 91 TSi AWD with coolant lines going into the OFH as well. IDK if that will help.

Thanks
J
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[clipto]

I would feed from the oil filter housing, that's my opinion.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

I would feed from the oil filter housing, that's my opinion.

Ok, but which port to tap into? There is the idot light location. one directly below it, and one between the two slightly offset to the right if looking strait at the OFH..

 

[clipto]

Ok, but which port to tap into? There is the idot light location. one directly below it, and one between the two slightly offset to the right if looking strait at the OFH..

If your looking striaght in front the the car its the one right there dead center kind of pointing downwards.Not the best description, here is the pic I found.

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[CrawlinZX14]

Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for. I knew the top was the idiot light, and I thought the middle one was the clean from filter, and the bottom was pre filter. Just wanted to verify. Thank you...

Do you think a heat gun (non flame) will supply enough heat to break the sealant down enough to break it lose without stripping out the threads? I know many people say torch. But I have way to much oil in the area to risk that right now. So im hoping my heat gun will do the trick or will I need a mini/pencil torch?

 

[clipto]

Well I can't say mine came off with rather ease,try greese em up or maybe a little heat just be careful it should come of rather easy, but then again it's a dsm.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Thanks

Tomorrow I have to pick up the strait NPT to -10an for the return line and a 90* and I should be set.

 

[clipto]

You might be able to find vender that sells the oil line kit.Like RRE or some place for a good price.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

I already have it all, just ordered the wrong 2 pieces for the oil pan flange. I ordered a 90* NPT to -10an and a strait -10an. I got it backwards. Needed the strait off the flange then the 90* for the turn toward the turbo. I have the -4 line and the adapter that I ordered online. Had most everything I needed to do my turbo swap, just forgot a few minor things. a couple clamps for the new larger diameter inlet on the turbo, and the wrong fittings cause I was dumb. ###### going to pick up a few other things to in order to install my AFPR too while im at it. Thinking I will pick up a tube sleeve so i can AN the return line off the FPR to the hard line. Just flare it with a slip sleeve so I can attach the AN right up without much modification.

 

[clipto]

I already have it all, just ordered the wrong 2 pieces for the oil pan flange. I ordered a 90* NPT to -10an and a strait -10an. I got it backwards. Needed the strait off the flange then the 90* for the turn toward the turbo. I have the -4 line and the adapter that I ordered online. Had most everything I needed to do my turbo swap, just forgot a few minor things. a couple clamps for the new larger diameter inlet on the turbo, and the wrong fittings cause I was dumb. ###### going to pick up a few other things to in order to install my AFPR too while im at it. Thinking I will pick up a tube sleeve so i can AN the return line off the FPR to the hard line. Just flare it with a slip sleeve so I can attach the AN right up without much modification.

Oh haha, yea one vender sent me the wrong stuff so I had to wait to get my oil feed line on so much easier now that I know what to get for the future if ever need to do it agian.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Im excited to have her all together soon. She has a 13b and kept over boosting before with a stock side mount. Now im using a much larger turbo, and a FMIC. So it should be interesting once I have her running again.

 

[clipto]

Is it a automatic trans?If it has a 13b it also has smaller injectors so you will want to upgrade those too.Are you getting or have a 16g turbo your putting on there?

 

[CrawlinZX14]

I have 680 injectors in there already. It is an auto as well. The new turbo is a PTE SCM 50trim. Much larger than the 13b. Had a great deal on it I could not pass up. I was actually looking for a 20g when I came across the 50trim. I know these can make decent numbers. A buddy of mine made 717RWHP in a stock bottom end supra MK3 with a 50trim non BB. So i am only looking to get about 300awhp out of it as its a daily driver and maybe a weekend warrior for now. I plan to pick up another engine and do a full build on it while I am still able to drive with the OEM one. Im planning to go really wild on the new motor tho. full ARP hardware. MLS HG, full port and polish head job with 1mm oversized valves. Looking into cam size right now, but leaning toward 272's so far. It may become a drag only car with the new motor however, so I may just do a full fill on it and do away with a radiator and cooling system. But I just dont know if i want to go quite that purpose built yet.

 

[clipto]

I have 680 injectors in there already. It is an auto as well. The new turbo is a PTE SCM 50trim. Much larger than the 13b. Had a great deal on it I could not pass up. I was actually looking for a 20g when I came across the 50trim. I know these can make decent numbers. A buddy of mine made 717RWHP in a stock bottom end supra MK3 with a 50trim non BB. So i am only looking to get about 300awhp out of it as its a daily driver and maybe a weekend warrior for now. I plan to pick up another engine and do a full build on it while I am still able to drive with the OEM one. Im planning to go really wild on the new motor tho. full ARP hardware. MLS HG, full port and polish head job with 1mm oversized valves. Looking into cam size right now, but leaning toward 272's so far. It may become a drag only car with the new motor however, so I may just do a full fill on it and do away with a radiator and cooling system. But I just dont know if i want to go quite that purpose built yet.

Sweet but not sure you will make that much power on a 50trim, you got to remeber his motor is a beastly v6.I made 4xx on a 50 trim before.But um ya did you get a bigger fuel pump too.Hope it works out for you I hate oil leaks when I did my turbo lines, keep me updated on how your car is going.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

I have an Aeromotive A1000 pump that will be going in eventually. I think for now im going to run a stealth series intank pump tho

 

[clipto]

I have an Aeromotive A1000 pump that will be going in eventually. I think for now im going to run a stealth series intank pump tho

Sounds good, what hotside is on that 50 trim you got?

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Honestly im not 100% sure, I would have to go look. I think the AR on it is .58 or something like that tho. it has a a/r .60 cold side i believe too

 

[clipto]

Sounds good if you dyno let me know what kind of numbers you make, I always liked the 50trim as a fun street turbo.

 

[Bud92gsx]

I don't want to read the whole thread but 1g's are fed from the head....If feeding off the ofh you will need a restictor....

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Bud, I will have one in the inline filter off the OFH.

I am sure I will be taking it to the dyno next year at some point. More to get the tune better, but when I do, I will def post some numbers. I want to get some dyno time after each major mod I do to see the significance of each upgrade. With this engine, I dont plan to pull the head until I have to, which means im ###### not going to do much more after this turbo. If I do a cam set on here it will be the 272's, and I will have to do the upgraded springs and retainers for the higher RPM's it would likely turn so I dont float a valve and damage a piston. I have done springs and retainers without pulling the head, but not a big fan of it.

 

[JusMX141]

Filter housing feed for PTE journal bearing turbos- restrict as needed to keep oil pressure below 70psi at the inlet. For most guys this means a restrictor of around .080-.100" will be necessary.

Good luck getting the plug out of the filter housing to install the oil supply fitting- they're a bi***. Lots of heat is often needed to break loose the steel fitting from the aluminum housing. I'm sure you're aware, but heat the housing around the plug and not the plug itself.

 

[clipto]

Filter housing feed for PTE journal bearing turbos- restrict as needed to keep oil pressure below 70psi at the inlet. For most guys this means a restrictor of around .080-.100" will be necessary.

Good luck getting the plug out of the filter housing to install the oil supply fitting- they're a bi***. Lots of heat is often needed to break loose the steel fitting from the aluminum housing. I'm sure you're aware, but heat the housing around the plug and not the plug itself.

Lucky me I think mine came off rather easy.Agian it was a long day due to rre sending me wrong parts but I sware it wasn't a hastle for me.+1 on heating it up.

 

[CrawlinZX14]

Im going to try and use a heat gun as opposed to a torch at first. I would rather not have an open flame near there personally. But trying to heat the plug itself is just counter productive. Why expand the plug when its the plug im trying to remove? If I could freeze the plug it would be even better, but not really gunna happen for me like that.

And 70psi is at WOT or Idle? I have not removed the balance shaft or anything like that so far, so would that likely be a big issue of over pressuring?

 

[clipto]

Well im not sure about this high oil pressure issue, but one of my dsm's has a 62/62 turbo with b/s removed and I am feeding from the oil filter housing with out any restrictors been runing that for like 7 years.The only thing I know of is porting the ofh is what I have heard from some people.

 

[JusMX141]

Im going to try and use a heat gun as opposed to a torch at first. I would rather not have an open flame near there personally. But trying to heat the plug itself is just counter productive. Why expand the plug when its the plug im trying to remove? If I could freeze the plug it would be even better, but not really gunna happen for me like that.

There's no negative effect on directly heating the housing itself around the area of the plug as long as it's not already saturated in oil from a leak above the housing or anything like that.

And 70psi is at WOT or Idle? I have not removed the balance shaft or anything like that so far, so would that likely be a big issue of over pressuring?

Peak pressure, or wide-open throttle. If you have 70psi at a warm idle, your full-throttle pressure will be like 700psi.

If you have balance shafts, you're much better-off than someone who doesn't when choosing to feed without a restrictor....but keep in mind even the T25's that come from the factory fed from the filter housing on 2G's have a restrictor in the fitting at the housing:

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