98spydert
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,916
- 8
- Jan 16, 2004
-
Phoenix,
Arizona
<---Fed up with Tunerstein
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. Some basic info as to what each one means and what approximately they should be while idling (on a stock healthy car) would be greatly helpful. CyberEye said:O2v: front O2 or rear O2? what should the voltage be?
Timing: again, seeing numbers, not sure what it should be at any given time.
Short Trim: again no units, just numbers,
Long Trim: sam as above
some simple explanations of what each of these mean and possibly what they should be at would be extremely helpfull. Thanks alot.
turbolarry said:I use palm'n'stein and it does take a little while to figure it out. These are the most important ones you want to log at WOT;
O2v is the voltage from the front sensor (O2v(2) is the rear). It will fluxuate between .10 to.80 at idle and part throttle cruising. At near and full throttle it will hold at.88 (lean) to.98 (pig rich)
Timing will also fluxuate. At WOT you want to see a dip where full boost hits, then an steady advance to peak RPMS.
Short trim is the ECU adding or removing fuel based on the front O2 sensor. The long trim is based on the short trim. It's like short term and long term memory and ideally they should be at +/-3.
The rest of the stuff, airflow, what's normal, etc., I can't say for certain so I'll leave it for someone who knows more than me. I hope this helps.
miden said:Has anyone else had problems clearing codes? When I try to clear them I get a popup window that says something like "DTC error" and has a lot of hex numbers that mean nothing to me. Do I need to put the palm in a certian mode? Does the car need to be running?
Little help?
-M
turbolarry said:When that window pops up hit O.K. (I don't know what it mean either). It will then take you to trouble codes and give you the option to clear them.

