EclipticalGS
10+ Year Contributor
- 1,449
- 19
- Aug 25, 2008
-
walker,
Michigan
Well, I just got my OEM bare oil pump and used the drive and driven gears from my old pump. The gear cuts all look good, there is no excessive wear on them so im not too worried.
I took off the oil pump cover and bolts, set them aside.
I took my BSEK stub shaft and bolted it to the driven gear, torqued to 29 ft. lbs and it gave out. So I used another bolt (same size) with some RED loctite and torqued to 29 ft. lbs. It sat overnight, went back to torquematch it and see what torque it was, I went up to like 33 ft lbs and it was still there so I guess that loctite is sufficient.
Anyways, I Then put the gears all together with some 10w30 and then dropped the oil pump case back on, Then torqued the 5 surrounding bolts to 15 ft' lbs also with red loctite.
Next, I put my oil pickup on with oem gasket @ 13 ft lbs.
Then came the Castle plug, I tried to use this stupid Gezon motors tool to get it on and it slipped off with any torque applied so I took that piece of shit back, and just used a new O-ring, Hammer, flathead and loctite. Got it on as good as i could.
Lastly came the Oil pump sprocket. I set the end of the protruding stub shaft in a vice, Coated the pump shaft threads in red loctite, and then slid the nut down and torqued that to 45 ft lbs.
Keep in mind that I did all these torques based on what I thought judging thread size, tensile strength, I later found the specs and was very close if not dead on.
Anyways, With a little oil squirted in the pickup everything spins nice and freely with no binding or locking up. Other than the obvious gear notchy noise because theres not much oil.
Anyways, Did I do this process right?? Is there anything Im forgetting, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!
PS. I did use 2 1970's penny's to wedge in the gears to get everything off of the old pump, they are a very good thing to use, as they squish instead of hurting the gear teeth. (stole this method from my uncle who does tranny rebuilds for a living.)
I took off the oil pump cover and bolts, set them aside.
I took my BSEK stub shaft and bolted it to the driven gear, torqued to 29 ft. lbs and it gave out. So I used another bolt (same size) with some RED loctite and torqued to 29 ft. lbs. It sat overnight, went back to torquematch it and see what torque it was, I went up to like 33 ft lbs and it was still there so I guess that loctite is sufficient.
Anyways, I Then put the gears all together with some 10w30 and then dropped the oil pump case back on, Then torqued the 5 surrounding bolts to 15 ft' lbs also with red loctite.
Next, I put my oil pickup on with oem gasket @ 13 ft lbs.
Then came the Castle plug, I tried to use this stupid Gezon motors tool to get it on and it slipped off with any torque applied so I took that piece of shit back, and just used a new O-ring, Hammer, flathead and loctite. Got it on as good as i could.
Lastly came the Oil pump sprocket. I set the end of the protruding stub shaft in a vice, Coated the pump shaft threads in red loctite, and then slid the nut down and torqued that to 45 ft lbs.
Keep in mind that I did all these torques based on what I thought judging thread size, tensile strength, I later found the specs and was very close if not dead on.
Anyways, With a little oil squirted in the pickup everything spins nice and freely with no binding or locking up. Other than the obvious gear notchy noise because theres not much oil.
Anyways, Did I do this process right?? Is there anything Im forgetting, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!
PS. I did use 2 1970's penny's to wedge in the gears to get everything off of the old pump, they are a very good thing to use, as they squish instead of hurting the gear teeth. (stole this method from my uncle who does tranny rebuilds for a living.)
