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OBX Intake Manifold for 420A any good?

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Gorkoracing said:
Like someone said above if you are turbo or going turbo it MIGHT be worth it. From what ive read of others experiences with it, it didnt help any unless they were HIGHLY modded(300-400). Porting and polishing or having the stock one extrude honed is the way to go if you dont plan on ever modding your car that much. And as for the fuel rail :thumbdown your stock fuel rail will flow just as good as any aftermarket fuel rail you'll be tricked into buying. if your staying NA go intake, header, exhaust, maybe highflow cat, 55-57mm tb, pp intake mani, udp, etc...
but the fuelrail and that obx mani would be a waste for you

And that is the correct answer all the way around. P + P your stock. Check your exhaust size to get some back pressure. Unless you are just looking at a chrome intake. Maybe you just want to clean your stock intake and paint it. It will be a lot cheaper and look almost as pretty :p Oh yeah, paint retains heat but I don't know if that is a big issue to you.
MB
 
Who puts a bigger Intake Manifold on a old Throttle body which is 52m???? what an id.....
If yoiu geting a bigger IM you must get a bigger TB, then you will get some gain.
 
porting and polishing a stock manifold SUCKS!! how in the hell are u going to port let alone polish the runners further than an inch, since the runners curve to form a letter 'C'.

The obx manifold hasnt been dyno test, the last time i checked. So it might be some good.
 
TalonSpeed said:
porting and polishing a stock manifold SUCKS!! how in the hell are u going to port let alone polish the runners further than an inch, since the runners curve to form a letter 'C'.

First, you have no idea what your talking about. When I P&P my intake I got such an awesome boost. If I had to guess, I would say about 10-15 hp. I got a 60mm TB and P&P at the same time. It was the best N/A mod I ever did.

Second, I have a stock intake manifold that is P&P that I might sell for the right price. Since I'm using the OBX manifold now, I don't need that one. Any of you who is interested in it, just PM me. Please don't email me... I get enought junk in there.
 
SnoopySLR said:
First, you have no idea what your talking about. When I P&P my intake I got such an awesome boost. If I had to guess, I would say about 10-15 hp. I got a 60mm TB and P&P at the same time. It was the best N/A mod I ever did.

Oh did u dyno the car before and after?? Oh where are the charts then. So tell me how far could u get in the runners?? I think your butt dyno is off.
 
TalonSpeed said:
porting and polishing a stock manifold SUCKS!! how in the hell are u going to port let alone polish the runners further than an inch, since the runners curve to form a letter 'C'.

The obx manifold hasnt been dyno test, the last time i checked. So it might be some good.

Wow! I wonder what makes you so angry? :rolleyes: Hmm... I believe that lilbayz311's question was how much it would cost to have the TB side of the intake ported and polished to accept a 60mm TB. If you are just porting for the TB (and you don't want to attempt it yourself) a local machine shop should be able to do that for no MORE than $50 (provided you bring in the TB "half" of your intake and the TB). I would suggest that if you go that far you may want to gasket match your head side of the intake and port and polish. This has been talked about extensively on other recent posts so I don't want to go there (to try to keep this short). You may even want to PM SnoopySLR for his.

As for TalonSpeed statement that P+P sucks, well to each his own. I have no problem with P+P. It is really rather simple. The polishing may require a little patience but what doesn't when working on a car. SnoopySLR, I gotta back you up on this one. P+P is by far the most cost effective mod to your car! By far! You are gaining horsepower but paying nothing (but labor with your basic shop tools). And to say prove it on a dyno, is like saying prove that bigger displacement will give you more ponies. It is something that has been proven repeatedly. I'll tell you what I'll do, you pay for the dyno and I'll go there with my stock intake and my P+P intake so that you will believe the horsepower improvement. Imagine free horsepower and you want to take a pass? Hmm?
Oh and by the way TalonSpeed, I looked at your mod list and I see that you are using the Jeep TB and you have ported your head with bigger valves but you don't show any improvements to the intake. Did just not list them? Or have you decided that this is a better set-up? Take a look at... eh you know what? I'm done. I got more to say but this is the kid's thread. So I'll leave it alone.

Oh yeah, I polished all the way into the runners. If you weren't acting like such a big, angry, meanie I would tell you how. :D
MB
 
bullettdsm said:
Oh and by the way TalonSpeed, I looked at your mod list and I see that you are using the Jeep TB and you have ported your head with bigger valves but you don't show any improvements to the intake. Did just not list them? Or have you decided that this is a better set-up? Take a look at... eh you know what? I'm done. I got more to say but this is the kid's thread. So I'll leave it alone.

oh god if he hasnt touched the intake mani, he has a lot of bottled up ponies...

bullettdsm said:
Oh yeah, I polished all the way into the runners. If you weren't acting like such a big, angry, meanie I would tell you how. :D
MB

Tell me! Tell me! well im sure i will figure it out, but just incase theres some secret to it, so when i take it out in a couple weeks i dont just sit there staring at it think "now what in the hell..." LOL
 
TalonSpeed said:
Oh did u dyno the car before and after?? Oh where are the charts then. So tell me how far could u get in the runners?? I think your butt dyno is off.

I don't know, my "butt dyno" is actually pretty accurate. I hope you realize your the ONLY person here who thinks P&P sucks.... I think your the only person in the automotive world who thinks that too.....

BTW... your mod list says you got the AFX ECU... that only works on 97's bro..
 
GSGoinFast said:
Tell me! Tell me! well im sure i will figure it out, but just incase theres some secret to it, so when i take it out in a couple weeks i dont just sit there staring at it think "now what in the hell..." LOL
Yeah, Chris I'll tell ya but SSSSHHHH! this just between you and I. ;) Don't tell anyone else! I used a drill bit extender (the kind that an electrician might use to drill through a sill plate to run wires from floor to floor). I think it was a 1 1/2 foot extender. I then took a flapper (it looks like a round head that has a bunch of sandpaper ears that come off of it. You can find these at welding places) and ran the flapper through the ports. I know that you know that the "C" shape of the intake comes apart in two pieces right? :rolleyes: I am guessing that some people aren't aware of this. Anyway, I don't remember the grade of sandpaper that I used but you want to use something around 150ish or maybe lower.

You need to know though that this does not give you that baby smooth finish. But it will polish it up nicely. Also, while your in there, you want to check for possible casting irregularities. Sometimes there is a piece of crap that got stuck in there during casting. Try your best to get that off. It will cause unneeded turbulence. I think you are aware of our previous posts and where to port out. Just follow what dr1665 or I directed you and I guarantee you will be happy with the results (of course now I probably raised your expectations up to 200 extra HP :D yeah wouldn't that be nice. Let me check my Butt dyno. Hey I wonder if TalonSped has one I can use....).
MB
 
Porting and polishing in general doesnt suck. Olds school V8s with their 2 piece intake manifold can be ported easily. Old school V8s had wide tolerances and many of the manifolds had imperfect cast. So yes gasket matching them will give gains. Alot of intake manifolds are cut in half, ported polished, then welded back together. Why? because u cant it up in the runners.

I have a dremel tool made for porting. The intake runners are 18 inches long, curved, and made using a not so fine grain of sand casting. The furthest a flexible shaft can go is about 2 inches, if you are lucky. Then if you do port the runners, i doubt anybody has a flow bench, one port may flow less than originally did, another may flow better.

The TB mod is worth it, if the opening is enlarged to go with it.
 
SnoopySLR said:
BTW... your mod list says you got the AFX ECU... that only works on 97's bro..

Another thing you are wrong about. A ran a stock 97 ecu on my car for 6 months, sent it off to howell got the afx program and ran that for another 6 months. Did u really think the ecus were that different. Look at the pin diagram, it works.
 
TalonSpeed said:
Porting and polishing in general doesnt suck. Olds school V8s with their 2 piece intake manifold can be ported easily. Old school V8s had wide tolerances and many of the manifolds had imperfect cast. So yes gasket matching them will give gains. Alot of intake manifolds are cut in half, ported polished, then welded back together. Why? because u cant it up in the runners.

I have a dremel tool made for porting. The intake runners are 18 inches long, curved, and made using a not so fine grain of sand casting. The furthest a flexible shaft can go is about 2 inches, if you are lucky. Then if you do port the runners, i doubt anybody has a flow bench, one port may flow less than originally did, another may flow better.

The TB mod is worth it, if the opening is enlarged to go with it.
Hey TalonSpeed, all kidding aside, do you really have a stock intake without port match, gasket (head side) or polish on your engine? Man, if you do, you are honestly leaving some ponies aside. And as far as the flow bench is concerned we addressed that in a previous post. Ah what the hell was it? I think it was titled up as Port and Polish? Anyway, you are right about differences in flow from head to head. Without a flow bench we are all just guessing. But for this head I believe that, as in most cases, a match port with a polish is better than no port at all. Also, I do know the dremel flexi. In this case I did not use because the length was short enough that I could use a straight extender with a flapper to reach. This way I could get a little more leverage.
MB
 
No i didnt have a ported runners. Just a bigger opening for the larger tb. I sold my 2gnt some time ago. It was just too slow. Yours might not be slow, but mine was. I have raced plenty of 2gnts and beat them all, but my car was still slow. I took it to the track but it kept on snapping axles. I figure with the wind to its back it might have ran a 14.9 on a good day. I sold it and bought a SR20VE, which i am swapping into another car.


too make good power with the 420a u need cams, and 16s are too small in my book.
 
TalonSpeed said:
No i didnt have a ported runners. Just a bigger opening for the larger tb. I sold my 2gnt some time ago. It was just too slow. Yours might not be slow, but mine was. I have raced plenty of 2gnts and beat them all, but my car was still slow. I took it to the track but it kept on snapping axles. I figure with the wind to its back it might have ran a 14.9 on a good day. I sold it and bought a SR20VE, which i am swapping into another car.


too make good power with the 420a u need cams, and 16s are too small in my book.
Yeah, I know we are digressing on this kids thread but I'll go a little more. You were snapping axles?! Without a turbo kit or nitrous? I am a bit taken aback by that. I could see if you were pushin' 300whp or more but I can not imagine these axles not putting up with a 420a. Was there some wheel hop going on? Did you get some kind of load up? I am counting on these axles to put up with the launch. The shaft appears to be the same as a VW GTI. They (did. I'm showing my age) put 160+ through these all the time. Maybe a mount problem? Maybe a geometry problem? Hmm.
As far as these cars being slow in general; isn't that the challenge? :laugh:
MB
 
My car had terriblewheel hop. I tried ES inserts, didnt work. I tried afx solid mounts, didnt work. I tried to fill the mounts with poly, didnt work. These mounts cut down on some of the hop but not enough. The FWD eclipse front suspension setup isnt that great. What it needs is a traction bar. This will keep the wheels from deflecting during a hard launch. The bar needs to connect the lower control arm mounting points to the lower radiator support section.
 
21stEagle said:
Who puts a bigger Intake Manifold on a old Throttle body which is 52m???? what an id.....
If yoiu geting a bigger IM you must get a bigger TB, then you will get some gain.

If your referring to me ds, the ITM sat in the box and I was going to order the T/B soon. Like I said we were bored had nothing to do so we decided to go ahead and see if we could put it in. I also said I didn't expect to feel any difference until a bigger T/B was put on.
 
JRichter said:
If your referring to me ds, the ITM sat in the box and I was going to order the T/B soon. Like I said we were bored had nothing to do so we decided to go ahead and see if we could put it in. I also said I didn't expect to feel any difference until a bigger T/B was put on.

Since were here again, did you happen to feel any difference? When I did my P+P(60mm; head side gasket match +) I put my stocker back on (though I did port out the ridge in the barrel of the TB). I did this because I like to see how each piece affects performance. I definitely noticed a bit of a difference. She really wanted to breathe. Just curious for future reference how yours was affected?
MB
 
bullettdsm said:
Since were here again, did you happen to feel any difference? When I did my P+P(60mm; head side gasket match +) I put my stocker back on (though I did port out the ridge in the barrel of the TB). I did this because I like to see how each piece affects performance. I definitely noticed a bit of a difference. She really wanted to breathe. Just curious for future reference how yours was affected?
MB

I had just put the OBX ITM on w/ the stock t/b back then (which makes no sense but we were bored). Other expenses had come up so I never got around to porting my stock t/b or ordering the MP one. BUT FINALLY I'm ordering a MP 60mm t/b in the morning (gonna do it today but I got busy at work).

I'm trying to decide wether to port match my stock itm and put it back on w/ the 60 mm t/b or leave the OBX itm on (even though I'll have to remove it to cut a bigger hole to match the new t/b).

The OBX chamber is real thin compared to the stock one so I wonder how it would hold up over time (even though the actual runners look heavy duty). I'm pretty sure I'll end up doing this first then have the stock itm done so I can actully tell the difference between the two.

I should have ordered the MP t/b a long time ago but I got lazy. After reading recently that alot of people have felt a difference, I'm getting my ass in gear and ordering it now. Hopefully I'll atleast have it on w/ the OBX sometime next week so I can give some feedback.

Anyone know how quick it takes Modern Performance to get something like this shipped out? I think they are in Houston which is 3 or 4 hours from me so the shipping time shouldn't be that long.

Thnks for any input.
 
JRichter said:
Anyone know how quick it takes Modern Performance to get something like this shipped out? I think they are in Houston which is 3 or 4 hours from me so the shipping time shouldn't be that long.

Thnks for any input.

Hey, I'll answer my own question. Modern Performance is out of them and they are in the process of machining new ones and I was told they'de be ready next week sometime.
 
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