2G No Start

[Blakedwight4]

Hey there, I have a ‘96 GST and I was driving it to work around 2 weeks ago now, and as I was coming to a stoplight, the tachometer started bouncing up and down, so I pulled over, and the car died on me. I could start it for like half a second and it would die again immediately. I remember a funny burning smell, but couldn’t point out what it was.

It since then will not start at all, and sounds different when trying to crank it. Makes slow whirring sound even when battery is fully charged. I don’t see any spark, but smell fuel. I have also replaced the crank sensor since then, and still no luck. I have read hundreds of forums trying to hunt down the issue, and have yet to find a solution. I need this car back on the road asap, so help would be much appreciated!!!

P.S. when I got the CEL to stay on long enough, I got P0115 and P0110

 

[luv2rallye]

Also the alternator belt has popped off 3x during the last three months, and I have ensured it is tensioned very well

Check to make sure you have the correct belt as far as the depth of the belt ribs. If the ribs are too long (protrude out too far - top point of each triangle) they will bottom out on the pulley groove bottoms (which you don't want) and you'll never get it tight enough to keep from coming off. If the rib points are wearing down they are too long. Rib sides {aka rib widths} can wear to match pulley grooves but rib points shouldn't or they are bottoming out.

 

[Blakedwight4]

@luv2rallye

@luv2rallye thanks, any feedback on the ignition fuse part?

 

[pauleyman]

Now the issue is intermittent ignition fuse popping.

Which fuse. The main Fusible link? Like 80 amps if I recall.
On the alternator belt on the next post you could have a broken harmonic balancer. Common problem.

 

[Blakedwight4]

Which fuse. the main Fusible link? Like 80 amps if I recall.
On the alternator belt on the next post you could have a broken harmonic balancer. Common problem.

Harmonic balancer seems intact, and the 30 amp "IGN" fuse

 

[pauleyman]

Harmonic balancer seems intact, and the 30 amp "IGN" fuse

Take a close look at the rubber ring. You can also see if the balance actually points to TDC when 1 is at TDC. If its off the outer ring has slipped and that balancer is a ticking time bomb.

 

[Blakedwight4]

Take a close look at the rubber ring. You can also see if the balance actually points to TDC when 1 is at TDC. If its off the outer ring has slipped and that balancer is a ticking time bomb.

This could be the issue. When I replaced the crank sensor, it seemed the only way was to remove the harmonic balancer, and I had to slip the outer ring off, pop the inner ring out, and then remove both. I'm now assuming that those parts were not supposed to come apart that easily. Would this then also explain the excessive engine shaking?

 

[pauleyman]

This could be the issue. When I replaced the crank sensor, it seemed the only way was to remove the harmonic balancer, and I had to slip the outer ring off, pop the inner ring out, and then remove both. I'm now assuming that those parts were not supposed to come apart that easily. Would this then also explain the excessive engine shaking?

I would not drive it again like that. Not kidding. It's 100% broke. The outer ring slips inward and bye bye timing belt.

 

[Blakedwight4]

I would not drive it again like that. Not kidding. It's 100% broke. The outer ring slips inward and bye bye timing belt.

Thanks haha. I ordered a new one, and will update when I get around to working on the car again this wknd

 

[Blakedwight4]

Update. The car starts and stays running. However, it still stumbles on and has a low idle of 500-200rpm, and when I tried getting it on the road, it had low power, and when I hardly touched the accelerator, it would buck, and would again buck when I let off the pedal. When I continued to push down on the gas pedal, it would bog like it was leaning out, and eventually backfire and fall flat. Any thoughts?

P.S. I thought it might be the TPS, and when I unplugged it, it made no difference in idle speed or gas pedal reaction.

 

[Sirius1995]

Update. The car starts and stays running. However, it still stumbles on and has a low idle of 500-200rpm, and when I tried getting it on the road, it had low power, and when I hardly touched the accelerator, it would buck, and would again buck when I let off the pedal. When I continued to push down on the gas pedal, it would bog like it was leaning out, and eventually backfire and fall flat. Any thoughts?

P.S. I thought it might be the tps, and when I unplugged it, it made no difference in idle speed or gas pedal reaction

Unplug your MAF and see if the idle gets better, if yes, it's probably your MAF sensor, but don't run it without MAF as it only goes to failsafe when you unplug it. Another thing could be some type of vacuum leak

 

[Blakedwight4]

Unplug your MAF and see if the idle gets better, if yes, it's probably your MAF sensor, but don't run it without MAF as it only goes to failsafe when you unplug it. Another thing could be some type of vacuum leak

I've already tried replacing it with a known working one over this 3 month process, and it seems that mine is working just fine.

 

[Blakedwight4]

Update. The car starts and stays running. However, it still stumbles on and has a low idle of 500-200rpm, and when I tried getting it on the road, it had low power, and when I hardly touched the accelerator, it would buck, and would again buck when I let off the pedal. When I continued to push down on the gas pedal, it would bog like it was leaning out, and eventually backfire and fall flat. Any thoughts?

P.S. I thought it might be the TPS, and when I unplugged it, it made no difference in idle speed or gas pedal reaction.

@luv2rallye @pauleyman