The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

ECMlink No Start. Help verify my settings are good to start, car sat for 2 years

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

93xsg

10+ Year Contributor
245
55
Jul 3, 2011
Sequim, Washington
Hey guys, about 2 years ago I was in the process of tuning my car. Went through all the basic ECMLink testing stuff making sure it was mechanically sound, no boost leaks etc.

Had the car close loop tuned and was beginning on open loop, when one day it started running poorly out of nowhere and I parked it (life got busy).

Fast forward 2 years of the car sitting, and now she won't start. First key go it will hiccup like it wants to start. But doesn't. Just cranks after that, unless I give it gas, it will hiccup a bit again.

Would love if someone could verify my settings are good enough to start the car. Seems like a few things were off from when I last messed with it, so I kind of zerod things out and used base settings from someone elses recommendations on here.

Just want to make sure this is all good before I dig too deep into diagnosis. (I put new fuel and spark plugs in it so far).

Again, not looking for perfect, just proper settings to make it run, so I can go from there. Thanks.

950cc FIC, 2g MAF with conversion cable, PLX wideband in pin 15 (EGR)
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I didn't see any pictures in your profile with the intake on ...

All I see in a quick look is that the fuel global is set of 1027cc injectors and you say they are 950cc.
In the log, the airflow #s are hard to believe as are the injector pulse widths and low RPMs for cranking.
I'm only running on my first cup of coffee so I could be misfiring as well but 10.88ms IPW seems really long for cranking and 1.1gm/rev seems about 4 times what it should be.

I would expect the plugs to be fuel fouled at this point.
 
I used the ECMLink calculator for the fuel setting and dead time from the injector info chart. What should 950s be set at for global? For some reason it was at 71% when I plugged the laptop in.

I can take some engine pics. I replaced the plugs right before that log. They were indeed fowled.

ISC and all the other stuff on throttle body are deleted. S90 throttle body.

I was at 37 psi fuel pressure right before that log, my memory told me it was 43 so I set it to that right before this log. Then found out manual 1g is 37.

I just put in a new battery and starter as well.

Also just did a firmware update on the ECU with ECMLink.
 
Here's the deal, you can run 37psi or 43psi if you want as long as you scale the injector global correctly. A 1G ECU expects 450cc (measured at 43.5psi) being run as ~37psi. That's an effective flow rate of about 411cc. If you change the size (both sets of injectors sized at 43.5psi/3bar) but keep the base fuel pressure the same you only calculate the difference between the two measured/rated sizes. If you change both size and base pressure you have to calculate for both changes to flow rates.

For now just set your base to stock 1G pressure, use 950cc in the calculator to get a starting point for your global of about -53. while tuning you're going to adjust both the global and the deadtime until you get solid calculated vs actual AFR data.

A S90 TB would explain the lack of a real IPS signal and when you get it started we'll have to keep in mind you don't a ISC or FIAV.

Is your 2G MAF original/untouched or hacked up?
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here's a video of trying to start first thing this morning. No gas applied just key. After the first hiccup it'll just crank unless I flutter gas pedal it will do that again like it wants to start.

I suspect that what ever made the car run funky 2 years ago when I parked it is also what is preventing it from starting.

Really just want to make sure I got everything set up proper so I can start full diagnosis.

Thanks again

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I'll set it back to 37 this afternoon on ECM and on the FPR.

I believe it's an unhacked 2g MAF but I can verify that.

I still need to OHM out the coil pack and I'll try swapping plug wires as well with another set.

I'll see if I can do that on lunch
 
I'll have to wait for a buddy to check for spark.

I did the two ohm tests for the coil pack which passed. I also swapped plug wires, and reset the ecmlink settings and fpr for 37 psi. No change.

Will update when I have a helper to verify spark

Also, 2g MAF is unhacked, and I verified continuity thru each wire on the ohm racing MAF adapter harness
 
Last edited:
Strong, equal spark on all 4.

I did notice it looks like some oil is dripping from cyl #4 exhaust manifold. Going to do a compression check this weekend to rule that out
 
Interesting compression results...

#1 ~165
#2 - 0
#3 ~ 155
#4 - 0

You can hear the compression difference in cranking when the tester was in a good cylinder.

I reckon I'll dig out my leak down tester out of storage before ripping into it.
 
Ahh at least I know what's going on now!

I rebuilt that motor when I was 18 about 14 years ago. I used a cheap rebuild kit that was $80 with King bearings, eve piston rings and some cheap ass gaskets. (From advice of someone helping me).

Its been bothering me, especially since the rest of the car is built pretty well. I'll take the opportunity to throw in a forged piston, and some OEM or similar bearings. To replace those cheap parts.

Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully have it up and running in a month or so!
 
For anyone interested, this is what I found.

Timing belt was so loose I could have pulled it off by hand, if the lower timing cover wasn't there.

Intake valves made contact.

Current plans are Eagle/Wiseco/ACL bearings. Hopefully get away with a hone and not bore.

I have 2 spare heads from previous parts cars, hopefully one of those is good to go, probably do valve stem seals and cam seals.

New OEM timing kit, a MLS head gasket (already got ARPs).

Goal is 400hp reliably!

Time to find a good machine shop I reckon.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Griffin intercooler cores
    Griffin intercooler cores. Top to bottom flow. High cfm and heat transfer. 24x8x2.75 and...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top