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420A No spark, Ignition Control Module?

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shaunsy12

10+ Year Contributor
43
0
Apr 9, 2012
breckenridge, Texas
I have no spark after replacing the ignition coil could the ECU have gone out even though the fuel pump comes on I've done replaced the coil pack fuel pump and filter crank sensor someone please help me out with this
 
I've made sure the coil pack has been plugged in I've even double checked and unplugged it and plugged it back in
 
I did 2 different ways with a spark tester and the old school way take the plug out plug it into the wire and touch it to metal but if i replaced the coil pack I should have spark automatically
 
Right between the coils and the valve cover. Should be about an inch long connector going into it.

Edit: Just noticed you're N/T. I'm not sure about the 420a's and their ICMs..
 
Do you have access to a diagnosis Computer? If so run that and see if your getting signal to your cam and crank before just replacing a boat load of stuff like i did. its a quick way to throw in the towel and give up. If you have no signal to your cam or crank, Check your VSS (vehicle Speed Sensor) that was my problem when i had no spark. i replace everything from the ignition switch, ecu,cam,crank to the coil pack, wires and plugs:banghead:. just to still have no spark and it was the vss the whole time:ohdamn:.

P.s. My speedometer worked fine even though it was shorting out.
 
Well I've done replaced the crank sensor and still haven't gotten any spark and my next attempt is the ECU because I had a buddy with a 98 n/t that ran into the same problem and went thru all the replacements until he got to the ECU but thanks for the idea about the vss if the ECU doesn't work my car did die while driving down the highway though and hasn't ran for the last 2 weeks
 
Since you replaced the crank sensor, Im assuming you made sure the timing belt was alright right? and its still in time?
 
The timing belt is still in tact. And i haven't gotten around to checking the timing on since I have no spark I have to do it the old fashion way and turn the crank

Timing is good
 
Yea my car both times died while driving, first time never figured it out. it just one day decided to work again drove it for like 1000 miles. Then it died again same problem no spark that was after i replaced everything. Then a member PSX gave me the idea of the VSS. So i tried it i was careful not to disturb anything els cause i was thinking i had a wiring issue cause i wasnt getting the right voltage to things. replaced the pigtail and the vss cause it came as a set. she fired right over first crank.:hellyeah:
 
Well ill have to try the vss next next after my ECU comes in tomorrow that'll be my last option and the only thing I can think of

How easy is it to replace the vss??

How easy is it to replace the vss??
 
you gotta take the air breather off, the battery off and take the battery tray out and its down there on the tranny to the left alittle. it took 20 minutes to remove change and put back together.
 
Sounds pretty easy the cost of the part isn't the easy part LOL

OK so I replaced the vss and still no spark any other ideas that would make it do that
 
OK so I've replaced everything that has to do with spark the cam, crank sensors, coil pack and wires, vss, ECU. And still have no spark. My car got hot as i was driving but never over heated and on my way back home it just died on me and hasn't started since then. Could this be my ignition control module and if so where is it located. I have a 99 eclipse n/t
 
So basically no ICM that means I've gotta check out the voltage patterns to see if one of my sensor connections is bad
 
Did you test the 30A fuse in engine fusebox? Then I would measure voltage on the coil's black-red wire when key is on to make sure you have power (otherwise ASD relay may be bad or it's not receiving power or PCM is not pulling pin 67 low to turn ASD on). If ok then unplug coil primary and jumper +12v to pin that had the black-red. Then for 1 second touch pin that had the black-blue to ground - when removed plugs 1 & 4 should fire. Then do same with pin that had the brown for plugs 2 & 3. If coil fires ok then measure CAS and CPS signals while cranking but remember they are pulses so you will only read a very low average. If all this ok and you're sure PCM is good then start checking connections and verify wire continuities to PCM from these various components.
 
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