no spark and no fuel, Stumped...

[AlexSza]

After checking the car a little bit ago Im not getting any spark to any plugs, there is pressure in the fuel rail but not entering the head. Fresh 6 bolt swap almost 3,000 miles on it and nothing has ever happened up until now. Friday i replaced my alternaor, in the process my oil pressure sending unit wire had gotten split off. After the install, i started the car up to charge the battery back up, took it around the block (a good 10 minute drive). Parked it at home until the next day. It did not read any oil pressure after the install but the next day it went to high and stayed at high until I shut the car off. This is the only thing different that i have done to the car and not it will not start. Being desperate i did one of those push the car and pop the clutch, it got around 100 rpm for like 1 second then died. All i have with me is a digital multimeter 3/8 drive socket set and milimeter wrenches, the car is about 4 miles away in a parking lot. I disconnected the battery to elimiate any bad codes that might have came up after that wire got slipped off.

I need ways to test my injectors, fuses? relays? voltage test?
all the possibilities that would cause no spark or fuel into the head.

There is no spark at all and they have a slight white/brown tinge at the electrode and a black carbon build up around the lower 3-4 threads. is that normal?

If these are simple questions forgive me, im 9 hours away from home and limited to space and tools, the last thing i want to do is get it towed to where i am currently staying, if there are ways for me to fix this in the parking lot I would much rather take that route.

 

[1990AWD]

I don't know too much about electric stuff on 2gs, but have you checked all your fuses and that no wiring has rubbed through or shorted somewhere?

Also, so after the wire for the oil pressure sender broke, you did fix it properly with good connections and it still reads incorrect? Was it reading accurately before?

 

[6damian6]

check the mpi fuse on the battery, then the power transistor. Also how are you sure your not getting fuel?

 

[Jerkychew]

Is your CAS sensor plugged in? and check the small wires for corrosion going to the connector.

 

[Chaosweaver]

Check the motor 20A fuse located in the engine bay, its more than likely blown.

 

[AlexSza]

The CAS is good, connection and wires are fine. The power transistor I havent had a chance to check yet, book states i need a 9 volt battery to properly check if it is working. I know gas is not getting into the head simply for the fact my plugs are dry as a bone and do not even smell like gas. the IGN, Rad Fan, and MPI that are on the positive terminal do look kind of brown and lost shine but still checked fine through a meter.

the wire for the gauge did not get fixed yet, it was on my to do list after the gym Friday morning, unfortunately I didnt get a chance to get that far.

Also on another note im sure everyone on the forum knows about the ISC on the throttle body, after checking the plugs and fuel today and attempting to check the engine for CEL's when I turn the key on that motor does not work at all. Before this even with the hood shut and outside noises i could still CLEARLY hear the stepper motor opening a passage into the throttle body before i start it, now its non existant. This has to be an electrical problem, I just dont know where to begin.

Edit:
Chaosweaver, Which 20a fuse are you referring too?

all i have is a digital multimeter to check the engine diagnostics and i hooked it up to pins 1 and 12, the number reached high then dropped to mid and stayed there. I didnt think of it at the time but in the book its
_---------- for bad ecu and _-_-_-_-_-_-_- for normal. correct me if i am wrong but im pretty sure my ecu got trashed. and if thats the case was it beacuse time did it in? or is my alternator push too much current back through while it was running and overloaded my capacitors and caused them to leak all over the board.

so confused haha

 

[Bill Hincher]

when you have an electiral mystery after changing an engine, go back and pay attention to all the ground wires, you cannot ground the engine to the frame in too many places >;o) and yes the starter will work without a good engine ground

 

[DOHCTA]

Don't think too much into it. All of your theories are good but cover the basics first. Start with your fuses as previously mentioned, if you installed the alternator yourself, check that all your connections are good (pigtail and posi wire to terminal and starter). It's likely simple and not nearly as complicated as you may think. Cover the basics, replace those spark plugs.

 

[Chaosweaver]

The CAS is good, connection and wires are fine. The power transistor I havent had a chance to check yet, book states i need a 9 volt battery to properly check if it is working. I know gas is not getting into the head simply for the fact my plugs are dry as a bone and do not even smell like gas. the IGN, Rad Fan, and MPI that are on the positive terminal do look kind of brown and lost shine but still checked fine through a meter.

the wire for the gauge did not get fixed yet, it was on my to do list after the gym Friday morning, unfortunately I didnt get a chance to get that far.

Also on another note im sure everyone on the forum knows about the ISC on the throttle body, after checking the plugs and fuel today and attempting to check the engine for CEL's when I turn the key on that motor does not work at all. Before this even with the hood shut and outside noises i could still CLEARLY hear the stepper motor opening a passage into the throttle body before i start it, now its non existant. This has to be an electrical problem, I just dont know where to begin.

Edit:
Chaosweaver, Which 20a fuse are you referring too?

all i have is a digital multimeter to check the engine diagnostics and i hooked it up to pins 1 and 12, the number reached high then dropped to mid and stayed there. I didnt think of it at the time but in the book its
_---------- for bad ecu and _-_-_-_-_-_-_- for normal. correct me if i am wrong but im pretty sure my ecu got trashed. and if thats the case was it beacuse time did it in? or is my alternator push too much current back through while it was running and overloaded my capacitors and caused them to leak all over the board.

so confused haha

It is the "Motor" fuse located in the fuse box in the engine bay.

 

[AlexSza]

I'm going to have to get it towed home sometime this week, then I can really tear into it, the spark plugs are brand new, 2713 miles to be exact. the fuses I will look into more closely, but the fact that the ISC motor is not enagaging and there is no fuel delivery. mechanically I know everything works.

 

[1983gsp]

Known fact....bad isc's kill ecu's. Check the stepper motor in the isc by ohming it out. Its been a long time since I've done it, but the procedure is probably in a Haynes or chilton.

 

[dsmrebel084]

Replace plugs and make sure your injectors are working properly. Also check your ecu more closely for capacitor leaks.

 

[doggietom]

Sounds like a ecu failure to me.

 

[Ricardo18]

if motor fuse is fine, cam and crank sensors are fine, and mpi is fine...yeah ecu would be next on the list. Try scanning. A bad ECU can't communicate with a scanner. Free at autozone.

 

[doggietom]

almost sounds like you burnt your driver out of your ecu. take it out and smell it. If it smells fishy you have an ecu issue. Or leaking caps

 

[1983gsp]

Unplug your isc before installation of the ecu. Leave it unplugged and check to see if the car starts up. If it starts and runs do not plug the isc back in until you know for a fact the isc is good.

 

[olddsmer]

Turn your ignition to the on position like you are going to start the car. The CEL should come on for a few seconds and then go off. If it stays on, chances are you have a bad ecu.

Good Luck
Regards
Olddsmer

 

[AlexSza]

when I get a chance to take a look at the ecu ill be sure to post what I find, as for the ISC, how would they kill ecus? I'm asking this because I have such agressive cams in right now and it has a terrible idle surge, sometimes it idles fine around 900 but 90% of the time it bounces around terribly. if this is going to cause another bad isc and fry future ecus then i will just put the normal turbo cams back in place. i had plans of upgrading the turbo and fuel system along with a logger and a tuning system but plans have changed, I just need it to run " normal " instead of driving a loped out drag car everyday

thanks for all the input, appreciate every comment.

yes I did ohm the isc, registered 0.0 or a very low number far far away from spec which would be about 30.0 cold and 40.0 hot

 

[RandomZ90]

Sounds like you could have shorted something out. I'd run through the wiring harness and see if you can't find a melted wire or something.

 

[olddsmer]

Put a differnt ISC motor in. Bad ones will fry ecu's. The cams should have no effect on idle surge. They will affect your vacuum. Aggressive cams will not take out your ISC. Put a new Isc in and see your idle surge go away if you have fixed your boost and vacuum leaks. The ISC may have screwed your ECU.
Regards
Greg

 

[AlexSza]

just took out the ecu and found that the cap by the connections has leaked,

the isc worked just fine when I put it in, tested it by the vfaq instructions, just need a good step by step way to put normal cams in, there is no boost leak and the cams I have in are 272/272. Is it positive that cams WILL NOT affect the idle? everything else is virtually stock except for the cams.

going to see when I get home if a used ecu from the bonehead will be better than to send it to dsmlink? to get it fixed properly

 

[1990AWD]

I see you don't have ECMLink, now is the perfect time to get your ECU rebuilt and socketed at the same time and when you can afford it, you'll be ready for Link.

 

[miguelmcv]

I see you don't have ECMLink, now is the perfect time to get your ECU rebuilt and socketed at the same time and when you can afford it, you'll be ready for Link.

+2.