No Run

[nyteshade151]

Ok when i bought the car the previous owner had "done a timing belt" for me so i wouldn't have to. Well a lil after my engine locks up because the exhaust cam isn't tight and it throws the belt. I replaced the valves and said gaskets and I'm trying to start her back up again but no luck. I'm getting fuel cause i can smell it and spark (new spark plugs and wires). I have no idea what could be the problem I have the crank angle sensor in the middle of the pivots. Could it be that I have the boost turned down to 0? I know these have to have boost recirculated and i was thinking maybe since I have it at 0it would be a problem...my friend with a 12 sec gsx said that even if my compression was low it would still start but it'd run like *&%#. Any help is greatly appreciated. My car is completely stock except for a tubular exhaust header and a mbc and boost gauge.

*note I will be doing a compression test right after I'm done posting this*

 

[ddavisaf]

Because you replaced the plugs and wires does not always mean you have spark.
A car needs 3 things to start basically. Fuel, Spark, Compression.
-To test your fuel crack a fuel line open and put it in a container. Then crank over the car. If you're getting fuel to the rail then move on to spark.
-To test for spark remove a plug and wire and ground them to the frame while cranking. You should see sparks.
-Compression test you're doing as I type so I won't touch on this.

If your injectors are not firing, first thing to check would be the MPI fuse. After that I would pull the ECU and check for leaking capacitors.

If you're not getting fuel, check the fuel pump and fuel filter.

Post back with your compression test numbers.

 

[nyteshade151]

I know I'm getting spark cause when i changed the plugs I waited till it was dark put all the spark plugs in the wires and sat them on the valve cover facing up removed my hood and cranked the car and watched the pretty blue spark fire off. I tested the 4th and 3rd cylinders and got 0. to make sure my gauge was working right I tested one of the cylinders on my other car and it worked so If I'm thinking correctly it has to be either my head gasket, timing marks not aligning?

 

[ddavisaf]

Once you figure out your three variables then we'll start working on the firing order. Making sure your plug wires are in the correct order, and that your CAS is not faulty or 180° out of phase.

 

[Defiant]

Your valves are bent. New head.

 

[ddavisaf]

I really don't remember seeing the compression test results on your post before mine....

Yeah, 0 compression = bent valves due to a timing belt error.
Majority of the time your timing belt will jump due to a bad auto tensioner.

 

[nyteshade151]

sooo my valves are bent for a second time? cause the first time when the belt was thrown i had the bad valves replaced....so me trying to do a compression test has bent the valves is what I'm basically saying.

 

[ddavisaf]

You can run a leak down test to help try and pin point the problem. However, even if you're just trying to start the vehicle and the timing is bad, you can bend your valves.
0 compression means your valves aren't sealing, so they may be broken, bent, or stuck.

 

[Old Mitsu Tech]

I agree. If you are doing a timing belt and you don't have any previous history on the car. Change the autotensioner. Change the idlers. Change the water pump. Replace all the drive belts. This way you have a new lease on life. I have seen several engines ruined because of improper timing belt installation. Some have gone as far as not compressing the autotensioner or replacing it. They just put in a new belt and tighten it up and "let her go" All with drastic results. All we ask is, do it right the first time. If you cut any corners here, it's not if it will bite you, it's when. Good Luck