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no oil psi, overheating. rattling. losing money ### help!!

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ryan95eclipse

10+ Year Contributor
123
0
Jul 13, 2010
lorain, Ohio
Ok guys i could really use some help here. i took a change on this 95 eclipse gs with the engine built up. guy said its bored .40 over with eagle rods n other good shit blah blah blah. i can tell a difference from driving my other eclipses so i believe its true. but here my problem. i bought to car not even hearing it turn over. he said it was rebuilt at 89k and it now has 94,539 miles. i got it running. changed a shit ton of parts. and noticed it over heating. it ran so hot you couldnt touch the hood. the oil light would flicker at idle and when i would downshift or come to a stop. but when rev'd it would quickly go away. i checked the psi with a gauge and it read 0oilpsi. Stripped it down. changed the belts water pump and oil pump. got it back together with what the timing was previously set at. got it fired up after a few turn overs. and it read 6psi at idle but after a few minutes it would drop to 0 and get hot as the sun again. i shut it off and said #### it after working on it for 10+ hours. started it the next day and it would barely start. quit cranking over. back fired ran like pure shit. got it running again and still getting hot. i have no idea why its getting hot. radiator? headgasket? but once you start it cold and rev it up real quick it barely makes a rattle at about 2krpm+ the more you rev it up the louder it gets. and the hotter it gets the louder it gets. can anyone please help me? i wont be able to check this much but i will when i can. please text me with any possible answers. maybe timingadvanced or retarded? please help 440 654 0344 my name is ryan
 
Its getting hot because you have no oil pressure! This means you are frying your bearings throughout your engine, now you have at the very least rod knock and most likely will seize your motor pretty quickly here. You should NEVER run your engine with 0 oil pressure that is a death sentence for any motor.
 
yea your bearings are shot bro. thats why you have no pressure and that will get very hot. im in the same situation my oil cooler bolt backed off about an inch and all my oil leaked out on the highway at 80 mph. i fixed the leak and torqued it down to specs and now i have a horrible knocking and my rings are shot so im going for a full rebuild. but i would look for any sign of oil leaks or oil burning. but unfortunately you will most likley have to rebuild it..
 
so you guys both think its the rod bearings? i mean i had no idea why it was getting hot and decided to test it. i figured if it wasnt getting oil the engine would have siezed withing the first drive. when i took the oil pan off they moved side to side a little bit but a few people had said that side to side is normal and someone else side tight is normal it gets 6psi when first starting and when hot just dies down. so is it still rod bearings? i read somewhere that back timing could make it run hot and make it rattle. does anyone know if thats true or what? im deciding whether to sell this or keep it. its only got 94k and it clean as ####.
 
oil clearances could be off... such as std bearings on a crank that is .010/.010 (.25mm/.25mm)
it may knock or rattle but oil press will be down.

as for the rebuild, if it was a "crate" engine it was bored, if it was a home built, then its anybodys guess the only way to know will be to have the block mic'ed
 
so you think i would have to rebuild the engine with new bearings and such? or would there be any other way of getting it to stop over heating?

:confused:I also read a few other places that the timing belt tensioner bearing could make a rattle if it moves back and forth and if the belt is loose but the belt is tight. im about to do a compression test and see what that says so i know a little more about if its a headgasket or such. i have seen a lot about the lifters could be screaming. it could be valves and much more. i rather adjust little shit then rebuild. anyone ever heard of such things making an engine over heat?

New update guys. I just did a compression test and from left to right it read 185 180 180 185. i did the test cold as im afriad to run it until the problem is solved. the rattling comes from the head and its not a lower block knock like a rod would be. Tomorrow i will be doing a coolant pressure test again hopefully and finding a new radiator. to see if that helps.
 
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