2G No fuel not sure how to diagnose

[97FairGame4g63]

My car is 97 gst with a 7 bolt. Forged Piston and rod motor with ECMLink. I skipped the timing belt before I parked it last winter. When the car first broke the injectors wouldn't pulse for what I assumed was the cam sensor seeing the car is out of time. I've recent had the cylinderhead removed and had a local machine shop fix it. I've put everything back together and I'm getting no start still. No check engine light or anything. Just cranks and the plugs are dry. I heard the fuel pump and I've heard the injectors power up but no fuel still. My question is if the car spun out of time do I have to remove the cam sensor and re position it? Or is there any other options or ideas people have im a bit at a loss. Just a backyard mechanic trying to get his car on the road again. And it's a brand new walbro 255.

 

[pauleyman]

cam sensor doesn't care. It's a fixed position than turns relative to the cam. I can't remember if 2g can be 180 out but even that shouldn't prevent fuel. Find out if you have fuel to the rail. Manually jump the pump with ecmlink (car off) and take off the fuel return and put it in a bucket. If you get fuel at least you've gotten that far. Then listen or use a noid light to check injectors while cranking or log it with ecmlink and post that. I'd still listen or use a noid light even if you log. You should be able to rule out something with a few quick steps.

 

[97FairGame4g63]

I don't have access to a cable to view my dam link unless there is another way? And there is fuel at the rail and it just goes back out the return. Injectors all have correct voltage and everything just they are being told to stay closed for some reason. A tech a my local Mitsubishi dealership said the cam sensor being put on 180 out would cause a no start. And never used a noid tool like you've suggested. Where would I get one of easily obtainable?

I read on a three here that ECMLink will bypass the cam sensor for about 3-5 second so when I get home I'm gonna unplug it and try to get it to wanna start. Maybe it's a dead sensor now? Just trying to trouble shoot out loud

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

The cas is used for ignition timing and controls when the coil sends spark to the plugs so I would assume it shouldn't effect fuel delivery but if out it can definitely cause a no start


I would ohm the injectors and see if there in spec
I would also see if there stuck closed by grabing a multimeter with continuity

Have you checked your resister pack for the injectors?

 

[97FairGame4g63]

I thought it was the CPS that effects spark and ignition timing and the CAS was fuel delivery. Someone correct me if I am wrong.


And yes injectors ohm out just fine, as for the resister pack for them no I have not tested it. It's a metal box on the firewall is it not?

And I just got off the phone with the machine shops that rebuilt my cylinder. Guys says he thought the CAS could only go in 1 way so I'm gonna bet he put it back in 180 off and now it won't start.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

I thought it was the CPS that effects spark and ignition timing and the CAS was fuel delivery. Someone correct me if I am wrong.


And yes injectors ohm out just fine, as for the resister pack for them no I have not tested it. It's a metal box on the firewall is it not?

And I just got off the phone with the machine shops that rebuilt my cylinder. Guys says he thought the CAS could only go in 1 way so I'm gonna bet he put it back in 180 off and now it won't start.

Nope im fairly certain the Ecu controls your injectors after reading signals from the mass airflow sensor and your front o2 and temperature

Have you checked for damage to the injector boards In the Ecu?
Checked your coolent temp sensor? A bad one causes no starts also

I would definitely see if your cas is 180 out
Btw is this a 7 bolt 2g?

What resistance did you get when you tested the injectors ?

Make sure you get a timing gun to adjust your ignition timing after you ground the terminal in the fire wall when the car running .
The cas Needs to be set at 5 degrees top dead center

Take some pictures of your cas?

 

[97FairGame4g63]

And what exactly is pointing to a dead ecu when every other aspect of the computer is functioning and doing its job? Just curious how skipping a timing belt can fry and ecu? Like from what I said how there is voltage to everything In The correct amounts and the car was running fine before the belt skipped. 2g computers don't fail as commonly as 1g computers do. But please if you see symptoms of a dead computer is like to know what they are because I don't really have more than 1 symptom o a bad ecu

 

[97FairGame4g63]

I'm sure the cam sensor is 180* out so I'll keep everyone posted tonight

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

And what exactly is pointing to a dead ecu when every other aspect of the computer is functioning and doing its job? Just curious how skipping a timing belt can fry and ecu? Like from what I said how there is voltage to everything In The correct amounts and the car was running fine before the belt skipped. 2g computers don't fail as commonly as 1g computers do. But please if you see symptoms of a dead computer is like to know what they are because I don't really have more than 1 symptom o a bad ecu

I would literally take the ecu out ,open it up and look for leaky capacitors.
2gs are getting older so if there stock capacitors than they can definitely leak

Does the cel come on when you turn the key to on?

Do you hear the injectors open when you crank?
Use the screw driver trick

I highly doubt all 4 injectors failed at once that's why I'm thinking Ecu or what I posted before

Injectors literally just open and close so if you have fuel pressure than they should spray fuel

 

[97FairGame4g63]

I took the ecu out of the car when I bought it last year. It looked brandnew almost inside and out. Yes the cel comes on when you turn the car on. Yes as I said in my messages above I have heard the fuel pump and the injectors and the injectors have power so does the fuel pump. It gets fuel to the injectors and they are not opening. Ecu is fine was stored in a heated garage all winter

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

I took the ecu out of the car when I bought it last year. It looked brandnew almost inside and out. Yes the cel comes on when you turn the car on. Yes as I said in my messages above I have heard the fuel pump and the injectors and the injectors have power so does the fuel pump. It gets fuel to the injectors and they are not opening. Ecu is fine was stored in a heated garage all winter

We'll check your cas and and report back the fact that the pump turns on makes me doubt it to be the cas but I would certainly not rule it out man

Check grounds ?

Ecus can fail over time so if it has been a year I would check it out again just to rule out Ecu damage,
if you do take some pictures.

 

[97FairGame4g63]

We'll check your cas and and report back the fact that the pump turns on makes me doubt it to be the cas but I would certainly not rule it out man

Check grounds ?

Ecus can fail over time so if it has been a year I would check it out again just to rule out Ecu damage,
if you do take some pictures.

Cas was in its correct position. Pump was turning on again. There is pressure at the rail. I'm not sure on the ohms in my first test I didnt write them down I had the number the needed to be on my phone and I just checked with it in front of me. My side panels of the dash are off so I'll pull the Ecu out and check again.

And I forgot to ask tell me about the coolant temp sensor and if it throws a cel when it no starts

 

[97FairGame4g63]

That's the thing I'm so confused. Would like a snap on scanner be able to tell me if a sensor is misreading? There is no cel and the fuel goes to the rail and I have spark and air.

 

[97FairGame4g63]

Just wanted to update the issue. After chasing it back with a very expensive SnapOn scanner I was able to test the sensors one by one. It ended up being the TPS. It worked fine before the timing jumped, guess that meant nothing. The lesson here was just be cause it worked once always double check every pissibility even if your 98% sure. Thanks to all who had good suggestions, they made it easier

 

[97FairGame4g63]

I have a 97 eclipse gst with way to many mods to list. I had a no start issue a while ago after my cylinder head rebuild. I've since put everything back together on the car and it all checked out okay. I got it to fire up finally after I unplugged the tps and now I have codes for all of the sensors that require a 5v signal. I tested the tps and the coolant temp sensor and both don't have a 5v signal. Not sure what wire sends the 5v signal or how to test for the problem. All advice is appreciated

 

[luv2rallye]

TPS 5v is supplied by ECU pin 81 (green-yellow wire).
ECT sensor 5v is supplied by ECU pin 83 (black-white) and this is also it's signal wire.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-turbo-ecu-pinout-w-wire-colors.281763/

 

[97FairGame4g63]

Okay thanks. Now all the sensors that throw codes are tps, iac, coolant temp, maf sensor, and a map sensor/Baro code. Are any of these tied in together other than the ecm ?

 

[luv2rallye]

- Tps, map sensor/Baro, and mani diff pressure sensor are tied together and to pin 81 (+5v source).
- Iac is on +12v from MPI relay (along with a dozen other things).
- Coolant temp sensor signal is by itself on pin 83.
- Maf sensor has +12v source from MPI relay, and +5v air temp signal from pin 72, and +5v source for Baro pin 81, and +5v air flow signal pin 90.

- Note ECU pin 92 is a special signal ground and must be connected uniquely. Read "Important note" here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oxygen-sensor-wiring.244376/.

 

[97FairGame4g63]

So just to confirm the theory, that pin 92 is the ground for those sensors and if it's not grounded/broken it would cause the sensors to act up. I'll check tomorrow the cars is at work