Newb dsmlink help

[geosok]

Hey again, I'm back hoping for more help because I am at a loss. I have been watching the demo videos, reading the ecm wiki, searching forums and youtube and I can't get the most basic issue dealt with.

I installed the v3 chip and my FIC 1120 injectors with no problems. I have gone over the multiple checklists on this site and theirs and have checked all the boxes. The car was running great before on the v2 with 720s and a custom tune done by the previous owners mechanic.

Here is the issue I am having, my idle will not drop below 1500 rpms steadily and visually/ear test bounces between 12-1600. I have attached a data log I did after getting her up to operating temp. I have gone over all the info I can find, tweaked parameters and nothing changes the idle, my AF gauge bounces between 14.2 and 14.9.

I am on 91 pump gas at the moment, I have high compression pistons (10:1) that have always been run on over 100 octane and my goal as stated in my other post is to run e85 99% of the time but I wanted to do the pump gas tune first because that was the nearest station and I know I'll need it at some point.

Am I missing something or am I just a moron? I am crazy new to this, as I've stated before, and I just want to get everything right so I can do the more advanced/fun stuff correctly.

Thanks again in advance

 

[91talonts1]

He said the gauge reads normal, it doesn't log the same thing in link. This should be a matter of getting it wired and assigned to the proper pin (which it may be) and getting linearWB mapped.

 

[geosok]

I think I have it figured out, at least why link isn't reading it at all. I was finally able to follow the wires and it looks like the gauge is only wired to the sensor not to the ecu at all. My goofy giraffe sized body was contorted to hell and gone to see what was going on and it appears they never wired it to the ecu so I just printed out the pinouts off of vfaq so I can double check and make sure I'm not missing anything and then follow the instructions you all posted on how to install it correctly.

Wow is it fun being new... or something

 

[geosok]

Attached are a few images of the cluster **** that I finally found. Being the new guy I have no idea as to why they chose to wire the gauge this way, maybe it's a thing and I'm wrong but I haven't come across anything on any forum stating to do it the way I just found.

There are two harnesses, with two groups of sheathed wires. The group of 6 heads to the o2 sensor that is in/around the downpipe (is this the "rear" o2 sensor because I also have one that is kind of mid car with a wire that runs under the driver's seat?) The group of 4 wires is what I assume is supposed to be connected to the ecu, not the damn cruise control button, correct?

Should I pull the wires that I'm assuming are providing power to the gauge and rewire them somewhere else or do all I need to do is grab the white wire that is cut and run it to pin 75 on the ecu? Do I need to worry about voltage coming from that gauge? I came across some posts mentioning a p04 setting so you don't nuke your ecu.

Have I finally found the prob or just uncovered another issue like some sort of crappy Indiana Jones?

 

[91talonts1]

It looks like they're pulling power and grounding at that CC switch.
The o2 sensor that's under the driver seat should be the factory rear o2. I would assume the one in the middle of the exhaust would be the wideband sensor. Unless someone's arranged them another way for some reason.
The white wire coming from the gauge should be 0-5v output (check the wiring diagram). You can cut the wire to pin 75 (rear o2) run the white wire there, then assign the WB to pin 75 in the ECU inputs tab. There are other inputs you could use but this would probably be best.

 

[geosok]

The "middle" o2 sensor is the wideband for sure, those wires were easy to follow. Do you recommend pulling power and ground from somewhere else if I'm going to be pulling that white wire to pin 75 or does it even matter? I know the blue is left alone so that's one less thing to do, .

I'll get the ecu assignments all set once I run the wire for sure. Thanks

 

[91talonts1]

Personally yes because I like all my wiring to be nice and neat even if you can't see it. Also I'm not sure what amp fuse AEM recommends for their gauges, but I'm sure it's less than whatever circuit they're getting power from there.

 

[91talonts1]

I like to tap into the fuse block in the driver's side kick panel for my gauges.

 

[geosok]

I will follow your lead and find a better connection point. I'm the same way with wiring, I want it neat and where I know what the hell is going on. Thanks again, hopefully I'll be able to throw up a log with all the correct data in the next couple of days.

 

[Brembo]

Just some more information for you. I am wired into front 02 and I am simulating but the logging still the same plus I am on 1g. Anyways once you assign the pins and all of that you will find out quickly why some people don't like aem wb on the link. At first I didn't believe it then I did and then I learned. If you wish for it to log the same or close to the gauge then you will have to set it up as linier Wideband. At least I had to since my gauge was not in the link. Once you do that plug in the numbers from the manual for min lambda and voltage and max lambda and voltage. Now it will be close to the gauge not perfect but very close. Other ways didn't work for me.

 

[Brembo]

If you don't have the manual just search on google it's all over the internet. Also you might feel like you need to change your wb since the logging will be off well don't rush into conclusion so fast. If you have Bosch 4.2 then it was used on most cars on the road for a decades. You can find replacement on amazon for 40 bucks. If it is Bosch 4.9 then most if not all the cars on the road use them today and most other widebands. So don't freak out. It's a software issue in my opinion. Just sharing some info that I found.

 

[geosok]

Thanks for that info, I'll be sure to do that. Is there a preferred gauge to use with link, v3 specifically?

Always looking for an excuse to buy new toys, , and if it means it'll work correctly without dicking around with settings that's a bonus.

 

[Brembo]

Well if you read about other widebands you will quickly learn that they use the same sensors. So it's the gauge that is responsible how it uses the data and what it sends out. I think other brands did their marketing well enough that everyone apsolutely needs to have them. I won't mention the brand. If beliave if you already have the wideband then use it. When it will fail or malfunction replace it. It took me a long time to realize that I am a full point off in my Afrs because it was not logging correctly. As soon as it was logging correctly I was no longer flooding it with fuel and my knock went awey below 6k. I also use stock evo fuel and timing tables.

 

[geosok]

I'll snag the manual for sure, good thinking. I'll need to double check what wideband is in there because I didn't install it. It seems to be working correctly but it'll be good to know what it is.

Makes sense to not change anything until it stops working correctly, I guess tweaking settings will need to happen no matter what so I'll just deal with it and keep coming back on here looking for guidance.

 

[drcolt]

HI Geosok, I am in the same boat as you were a month ago with trying to get idle set. I too am new with link. I am wondering what your vacuum readings were before TB seals replaced at idle, and after all the seals were addressed?
I will be taking my TB apart and changing every seal available.
Search has worked once again!

 

[geosok]

Hey drcolt, the idle setting is definitely a chore but completely worth it. Picking this car up and taking the word of the mechanic and previous owner that everything was good to go really was a mistake because the difference in how it drives now is night and day. Being as how they built it for a weekend/track car I can only imagine what their times/speed would've been had they fixed these minor issues.

As for the vac readings, it would stay pretty solid around -12 that's why I was so confused at first, I assumed with a vac leak I'd see the gauge bouncing around some but I should have realized that everything equalizes included the leak so the gauge is going to level out. Now, its a solid -20and when I get on and off the gas the gauge snaps back in place like a drill sergeant is yelling at it.

I've noticed little things like that since fixing all the leaks, car is smoother, exhaust just sounds "right", gauge moves up and down smoothly.

One other thing I did, that I haven't mentioned before is that I became obsessed with finding every leak so I built a "smoke machine" so I could double check absolutely everything. It's an absolute piece of cake to make one, it's cheap as all hell and easy to use. People will argue back and forth about them but from my newb self making and using one I'm all for it. If you're interested let me know and I can walk you through it or throw some links up that are easy to follow.

Hope that helps and yeah, search is so damn helpful it's scary

 

[geosok]

Hey again everyone, hope all is well, I'm back seeking more help as I have had a chance to run down even more confusing setups by the previous owner.

After getting all the idle issues dealt with and figuring out what to do with my suspension I went to do a cruise log and then was planning on doing the WOT pulls. What I noticed was my car was struggling to even get to 10lbs of boost and a buddy of mine who has a turbo ST said something was definitely off. I went hunting for what the previous owner may have done and came across some things that seem baffling based on the info I've been gathering online. Attached images may help, but to me it looks like they plumbed everything to run a MBC (manual boost control) but never installed it and also left the BCS (boost control solenoid) on. Basically it's like they wired one thing half way and plumbed the other half way so nothing works correctly.

Seeing as how I have V3 Link I decided to snag the pigtail and solenoid off of their website so I can use the boost control through the ecu and I will be installing it this week, any idea if I can use what is already there to install the new parts or should I just run new lines everywhere? Also, do I need to do anything with the other hose barb on the waste gate? It's currently just venting to the atmosphere.

Other side note, I found a hose that runs from just after the MAF to an air compressor filter then up to the valve cover. Anyone seen or done this? I read online it's a pseudo catch can but that was on a ford forum and we all know they can't be trusted, .

Last piece for now, , any ideas on what the max boost I should be running with the T28 I have on there? I've read so many opinions with no clear answer. I'm assuming because I have a few other mods I can go higher than stock but I've literally seen people arguing between running 7-25 lbs.

Thanks much as always.

Edit- any idea what the orange colored pigtail is for? in the image with the BCS solenoid or maf cable.

 

[doubleclutch]

Use your stock BCS and link. It works and is basically free. You need to install a restrictor in the line otherwise you will not build any boost.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/ecmlink-boost-control-with-stock-boost-control-solenoid-bcs.474792/

You have headstuds and a "Built" engine. not sure why you couldn't hit 25+ as long as the bottom end can take it and you can tune it.

 

[geosok]

Thanks doubleclutch. I already ordered the new parts so I'll just throw those on when they show up. I'm starting to not trust anything the previous owner touched

Good to hear about the boost number, that should be fun when I get the tune sorted.

Next step is to run down some install tutorials for the bcs to make sure I can get it working with what is currently sitting there. Thanks again.