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BoostedCreation

Probationary Member
27
0
Mar 28, 2009
Terre Haute, Indiana
Ok first off just wanted to say hi. Now im no rook or noob to tuning but I am to dsm's so any advice is more then welcome. But I do ask that if you plan on knocking me, please dont waste my time nor yours cause I am truely here to learn. Now with that said Here is what I am working with.

I have a 91 Eagle Talon AWD Turbo. Before I bought the car I used to help the kid who owned it get parts and such that he needed or wanted. So I do know of some things that have been done to this car before I got her and decided to do everthing the right way. When I got it she was pretty much stock aside from a evo III manifold and big 16g turbo. He removed the axles and coverted it to RWD and welded the rear diff. HE wasnt building the car for speed, but to drift it. And I can say this car can do it. He put eibach springs with KYB AGX struts on her as well as a faze boost guage and blitz turbo timer.oh yea and he half azz welded a 4" exhaust off of a deisel truck onto the car. hench the boost creep at high rpms.

ok now that I have had it I got rid of almost everything he has done so far.
It now sports a 3" Megan downpipe, cat, and full catback, o2 houseing dump tube. this was just to fix the getto rigging done. I replaced the boost guage with a triple pod that now houses a boost, air fuel ratio, and oil preasure guages and on the dash is my water and fuel presure guages. I got rid of the factory intake crap for a very nice Dejon 3" air intake, 3" GM MAF and a Translator, which this item im having issues with trying to tune it. that will be one of my questions later. she now sports a FMIC with a HKS SSQV BOV and a upper strut tower bar. She came with 17" rims and junk tires so I went to tirebarn and got new tires for these rims and went ahead and bought 18" Motegi 5 star deep dish rims and Nitto 555 tires. these will be my spring through fall rims.

I am Currently running brand new NGK Platinum plugs and 10.2mm wires which are getting switched out with a coil pack system and a Dynatek ignition module. which are on there way. I also have a brand new 20g turbo, tubular manifold, st lower sway bars, energy suspension motor, trans, and control arm bushings coming to. to replace the worn out suspension I got a set of D2 36 way coilover kit.

ok as for dress up really nothing yet cause im not sure what I want to do, but I did get some new tails cause mine were cracked. and I got clear out corner lights. As for the audio. Theres alot basicly panisonic 6.5 dvd, 2 7" headrest monitors, Phoenix Gold 4" 6.5 components, 6x9, 1,000w 4 channel and a 1,000w mono pushing 2 12" phoenix gold sub and a 2.5 tsunami cap. and kicker 0 guage wiring. its not alot but I was aiming more for the movie feel of it.

ok now heres the deal. I plan on rebuilding the reast of the motor but not real sure as to were to start internally, so any ideas as to what all I will need, parts and such, and possibly were to get it all would be great.

now as far as the whole car goes im having issues with tuning it and will post a vid tomarrow. here is the small list I can think of.

1. Every time I try to shift from first to second it grinds. ( again will show in vid.)

2. she used to idle fine. now she idles very shitty.

3. When she is cold, me is very loud, not really a tapping noise, but almost like somthing is grinding. but once she warms up she is fine. no more noise.

4. I have noticed that she bucks hard as hell if I get to high in rpms, which I know has to do with the translator. I need to see if anyone has any howto's on tuning this thing or what else can I run on my 3" GM MAF cause she is eating through gas somthing bad! Whats wierd is after you get into the boost, granted this is not at full throttle only half, she will either smell super rich like gas, ir it smells somthing more like alcohol, which is I think runing lean.

5. Why does my factory boost guage allways read so much higher then my aftermarket one? which one is right?

6. ok now after I ran her hard, why does it seem so damn sluggish and hesitant when I try to give it any kind of gas?:banghead:

ok I think thats it for now but if I think of anything else I will post.
 

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ok so she idle shitty cold, hot, whenever, and she even dies at times.
as far as the SMIC dont have that anymore. I have a bar and plate FMIC
and thats what I was wondering about the fact guage thanks for that.
again I will have vids of every issue , LOL all in one video at that... hehe
ok now is the lifters tapping going to hurt anything?
 
I don't see anything about injectors, could be hitting fuel cut in higher rpms if your running higher boost.

As for the lifter tick, no it wont hurt anyone. You can get some 3g lifters to fix it if it's that big of a deal, or some people use thicker oil.
 
I ordered a welsbro 255 fuel pump but dont know what size injectors to go with or who to go with. so would I hit the fuel cut off if im runing to rich or to lean? Cause i noticed it was a hell of alot worse before I started leaning out the translator. I only did 1 notch back on the translator which seamed to help out alot cause before I was lucky to hit 3,500 rpms before she was spittin and buckin.

as for the tick I will fix that when i finally rebuild the motor.
 
im using the highest pump gas i can get which I think is 97 octane. as for a logger. dont have one... got and suggestions?
 
97 octane?? pump gas?? wow..... i hear that there a few free loggers for the 1g. Pocket logger, tmo logger, some more but i cant remember right now.. kind of tired...
 
Get rid of those platinum plugs! Those don't work well with our cars and might be causing the bucking at high rpm/boost. Get the regular cheap NGK's BPR6ES I think with 28 thou gap
 
Be sure to read a lot. I read on this site for over a year and a half before I posted. There is so many different routes you can take to fix a problem.
I hope you love working on cars cause DSMs will break if maintenece isn't done properly and on time.
 
your idling proble and the dying are caused by not recirculating your bov. you can only vent it with a maft if its blow through your running it in place of your stock maf
 
Very true and your running a maf-t with no wideband... I you do sound new to the tuner world... You should know when your injectors are maxxing out, you should know that platinum plugs do not work well with boosted cars, you should know when a syncro is going bad, and you should know that whenever you add a tuning devise that changes the fuel curve by tricking the ecu about airflow counts you need to be able to watch something to do with your ecu...

Im not dissing you because you do have a nice setup and you did buy, from what i see, quality parts but just ask questions next time ;)

You need to buy a logger or a wideband and if you start searching other forms of tuning you will see that you have access to tons of free, badass, tuning programs for the 1g ecus...
 
your idling proble and the dying are caused by not recirculating your bov. you can only vent it with a maft if its blow through your running it in place of your stock maf

What he said. To the OP you need to have that gm maf behind the blow off valve if you want to vent to the atmosphere, you have it the other way around. So either scrap that intake, and get a new one with just the filter and pipe connected to the turbo, and mod your ic piping to fit the gm maf after the blow off valve, or get a recirculation kit for the bov.
 
If you look at the pic the Maf in mounted on the turbo intake.... shouldnt it be mounted between the manifold intake and the BOV???????
 
If you look at the pic the Maf in mounted on the turbo intake.... shouldnt it be mounted between the manifold intake and the BOV???????

It can be mounted there in draw-through, like stock configuration. In the UICP is called blow-through, which most people opt for, so they can properly vent their BOV's. Which he is not doing.
 
Get to a scanner, go into you ECM and look at you coolant temp sensor...it has a lot to do with running, it acts like a choke does on a carb when it gos bad, im sure that could be one of your running issues.
as for the grinding, go on and replace the transmisson, thats the best way to fix that, unless you know some one who can go in and do what is needed to be done, all DSM's have that sincro B/S. even mine.
Over all you could perty much figger out what u need to find out with a scanner, and they range anywhere from 250 to 8,000 its just all in what u want and know how to use
 
ok first whats a good wideband that you would recomend? ok as for boost it says i am running around 12 psi. I have been searching alot but ive never been that great at trying to find answers, another issue is that right now this is my daily driver so I have to find the solutions quick, so that is why I asked. as for this world yes, I am very new but not to tuning in general. But thats not here nor there.

ok now for what I have currently and plan on putting on the car, what size injectors should I go with? would it be over kill or pointless to go with 850cc injectors? I was looking at the AEM fuel rail, unless you guys have a better one then that in mind. Like i mentioned before is that I did order the welsbro 255 fuel pump, but didnt know on the injectors due to I didnt want to get somthing to small or way to big.

right now I have a evoIII big 16g turbo and manifold but I am replacing it with a 20g tdo5h turbo and tubular manifold. it just got in today.

ok so I just went down and got the basic NGK plugs. BPR6ES stock number 7131. the next step up was uridium.
 
ok as for where it was mounted that is where a couple guys that work at mitsubishi said, but I can see that im retarded as hell for listening to them. ok so if i buy a 2.5" GM MAF and run it between tthe bov and the intake, aside from the translator, what is a good wideband. unfortinitly I like in a retarded ass hick town, so no one has a scanner. were can I get one at a decent price that will work for what i need?

as for the RWD? yes im leaving it for now till I can get over to the kids house and pick up the rest of the parts.
 
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