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BoostedCreation

Probationary Member
27
0
Mar 28, 2009
Terre Haute, Indiana
Ok first off just wanted to say hi. Now im no rook or noob to tuning but I am to dsm's so any advice is more then welcome. But I do ask that if you plan on knocking me, please dont waste my time nor yours cause I am truely here to learn. Now with that said Here is what I am working with.

I have a 91 Eagle Talon AWD Turbo. Before I bought the car I used to help the kid who owned it get parts and such that he needed or wanted. So I do know of some things that have been done to this car before I got her and decided to do everthing the right way. When I got it she was pretty much stock aside from a evo III manifold and big 16g turbo. He removed the axles and coverted it to RWD and welded the rear diff. HE wasnt building the car for speed, but to drift it. And I can say this car can do it. He put eibach springs with KYB AGX struts on her as well as a faze boost guage and blitz turbo timer.oh yea and he half azz welded a 4" exhaust off of a deisel truck onto the car. hench the boost creep at high rpms.

ok now that I have had it I got rid of almost everything he has done so far.
It now sports a 3" Megan downpipe, cat, and full catback, o2 houseing dump tube. this was just to fix the getto rigging done. I replaced the boost guage with a triple pod that now houses a boost, air fuel ratio, and oil preasure guages and on the dash is my water and fuel presure guages. I got rid of the factory intake crap for a very nice Dejon 3" air intake, 3" GM MAF and a Translator, which this item im having issues with trying to tune it. that will be one of my questions later. she now sports a FMIC with a HKS SSQV BOV and a upper strut tower bar. She came with 17" rims and junk tires so I went to tirebarn and got new tires for these rims and went ahead and bought 18" Motegi 5 star deep dish rims and Nitto 555 tires. these will be my spring through fall rims.

I am Currently running brand new NGK Platinum plugs and 10.2mm wires which are getting switched out with a coil pack system and a Dynatek ignition module. which are on there way. I also have a brand new 20g turbo, tubular manifold, st lower sway bars, energy suspension motor, trans, and control arm bushings coming to. to replace the worn out suspension I got a set of D2 36 way coilover kit.

ok as for dress up really nothing yet cause im not sure what I want to do, but I did get some new tails cause mine were cracked. and I got clear out corner lights. As for the audio. Theres alot basicly panisonic 6.5 dvd, 2 7" headrest monitors, Phoenix Gold 4" 6.5 components, 6x9, 1,000w 4 channel and a 1,000w mono pushing 2 12" phoenix gold sub and a 2.5 tsunami cap. and kicker 0 guage wiring. its not alot but I was aiming more for the movie feel of it.

ok now heres the deal. I plan on rebuilding the reast of the motor but not real sure as to were to start internally, so any ideas as to what all I will need, parts and such, and possibly were to get it all would be great.

now as far as the whole car goes im having issues with tuning it and will post a vid tomarrow. here is the small list I can think of.

1. Every time I try to shift from first to second it grinds. ( again will show in vid.)

2. she used to idle fine. now she idles very shitty.

3. When she is cold, me is very loud, not really a tapping noise, but almost like somthing is grinding. but once she warms up she is fine. no more noise.

4. I have noticed that she bucks hard as hell if I get to high in rpms, which I know has to do with the translator. I need to see if anyone has any howto's on tuning this thing or what else can I run on my 3" GM MAF cause she is eating through gas somthing bad! Whats wierd is after you get into the boost, granted this is not at full throttle only half, she will either smell super rich like gas, ir it smells somthing more like alcohol, which is I think runing lean.

5. Why does my factory boost guage allways read so much higher then my aftermarket one? which one is right?

6. ok now after I ran her hard, why does it seem so damn sluggish and hesitant when I try to give it any kind of gas?:banghead:

ok I think thats it for now but if I think of anything else I will post.
 

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AEM UEGO for wideband.

The boost gauge on the dash is for driver amusement, it is NOT accurate.

I didn't see any mention of an AFPR for that 255, hence your running rich from that.

Do a boost leak test, either move your GM MAF to the UICP so you can vent, or recirculate your BOV.

The 4G63 engine can make impressive power on stock internals, the only weak link that i would upgrade immediately is get some ARP headstuds and a preferred headgasket of your choice. It isn't necessary but I believe other members as well as myself have ran 20-25psi on stock head gasket + studs.

Buy a palm (m100, 105, etc.) and OBD1 cable.
Then get mmcd, amazing program - best of all its free. I should also point out that you need to get all your supporting mods for that 20g, maybe i missed what injectors your running, but you definitely need at least 750s to start and play with a 20g. DSMlink would be a wise choice right off the bat considering you seem to be in the game for some good upgrades.

Here is some links to get you started with reading the data stream, and what palms work.

TMO Datalogger 101

Logger Tuning

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/253793-logging-software-laptop.html

OBD Gauge

http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/ <-- FREE logger software (mmcd) Poke around on this website cause it beholds tons of valued information.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/218150-aem-wideband-logs-your-palm.html

ECMTuning, Inc. <-- DSMLink

Those links cover tons of time searching and digging to get a reliable setup to read everything, I've spent a lot of time researching, i suggest you do the same to acquire your desired setup to be reliable.

Your welcome.
 
ok as for where it was mounted that is where a couple guys that work at mitsubishi said, but I can see that im retarded as hell for listening to them. ok so if i buy a 2.5" GM MAF and run it between tthe bov and the intake, aside from the translator, what is a good wideband. unfortinitly I like in a retarded ass hick town, so no one has a scanner. were can I get one at a decent price that will work for what i need?

as for the RWD? yes im leaving it for now till I can get over to the kids house and pick up the rest of the parts.
So do you get all the power you should be getting with RWD? I'm sure there has to be more disadvantages then just AWD or else more people would do it.
 
hey man heres a ebay link to a data logger i would go with this over a wideband ...it gives more info on whats going on in the engine and you can tune from the knock sensor on a 1g ...and move the GM MAF sensor between the blow-off valve and the throttle body this is the proper setup if u want to vent it in the air ...thats why your stalling and running rich ...the way u have it now u have to re-circulate it as the ECU accounts for that air...hope thats helps ...:D:D:thumb::thumb:

eBay Motors: Plug & Play Datalogger Kit 1g Eclipse Talon DSM 3000gt (item 200315772264 end time Mar-31-09 18:46:16 PDT)
 
ok with the whole rwd theng... LOL I know its not natural concidering what I have,but the guy had it before me wanted to drift it. thats all. So thats why she is still rwd. as for all the power. nope dont see it cause once she spools up tires break free hehe
 
ok so i just bought the palm m515 for my data logging. now im looking at the AEM AFPR but I just want to make sure its right for what I need. also looking at rc 1000CC injectors. now i know you said i would need 750s min but I figure 1000CC, and that way I know I have enough hehe... what can I say I love overkill. ok and I just got a cometic head gasket and arp studs.
 
I run a bevo16 with the 750cc injectors with the 255 pump and that works fine.

He's planning on running a 20g.


1000cc should be enough for that, but what do you plan on tuning with? I'd highly recommend DSMlink to control those 1000s.
DSmap is another option, but choosing that route your digging into a lot of tuning compared to DSMlink and you get the supportive forums of ecmtuning.

thanks alot viprez for all the valuable info!!!!. time to start ordering more toys.

No problem. Just keep in mind all of this stuff can be found within reach. It's a good idea to talk to other members running a 20g or turbo in similar size, see what they're using to tune/datalog with.
Remember: Dependability, Power, or Cost - You can only pick two.
 
again cost isnt an issue. I wasnt it done right. so woulld it be a bad idea to run the 20g un controled boostlike say 12 psi till I can get my new injectors in? ok so my palm came in. where can I get my cable from so I can link it up to my car?also whats the best tuning program or data logger that I can get for the palm?
 
OP: I notice no less than 3 bump posts in here. Quit that ASAP.

Also, please familiarize yourself with the SEARCH feature. You would have avoided that platinum plug debacle.
 
anyways if i got the answers I was looking for when did search then I wouldnt ask. either way the issue I am running into now is that since I moved my MAF like everyone said I had to do not only am I getting turbo surge something bad, the car bogs down real heavy and I cant eceerate at all! I already checked the flow and it is flowing in the right direction on the MAF. what else could be the issue
 
possibly a boost leak have you pressure tested your intercooler piping?
 
no I dont have a preasure tester. but I have felt her before when she had a leak and that was a totally different feeling.
 
what else can I do? everyone keeps saying to switch the locations cause it was in the wrong spot but when I did it made everything worse! i keep searching but I am not seeing anywhere were anyone else has had this issue, nor has anyone ran this same setup.
 
I said before : Boost leak test.

I'd be careful back-talking to mods here, this site is full of information so i wouldn't abuse it.
 
sorry about that didnt mean for it to seem like that. so I replaced the plugs and adjusted the MAFT and not I can run her up to around 10-12 psi before she starts bucking, so I think its mostly tuning. now I do have a question. to use this palm as a data logger, where can i get the cable to hook up to it?
Another thing I was wondering is if I get the dsmlink do I still need to get the chip for my ecu? I got the 1k rc injectors. also what is a good boost controller to get, electronic or manual? which one is better?
 
What I'd personally say to you is this - what's the point of slapping the 20g on right now and running 10-12 psi? You're not anywhere near the turbo's efficiency range, and your car is probably gonna be slower than with whatever turbo you have on it now. Throwing a new turbo on the car is only going to take an hour tops, why not just wait and put it all together at once and enjoy it that much more?
 
sorry about that didnt mean for it to seem like that. so I replaced the plugs and adjusted the MAFT and not I can run her up to around 10-12 psi before she starts bucking, so I think its mostly tuning. now I do have a question. to use this palm as a data logger, where can i get the cable to hook up to it?
Another thing I was wondering is if I get the dsmlink do I still need to get the chip for my ecu? I got the 1k rc injectors. also what is a good boost controller to get, electronic or manual? which one is better?

It all depends how much you want to spend, if I had the extra money I would definitely go electric (and in car adjustments are nice), but manual's do the job fine.
 
ok so everything for my fueling will be here with in a few days but heree is whats puzzling me.... I went to install my new turbo which is a TD05H 20G turbo and is stamped on the turbo housing. whats puzzling me is the turbo I have on the car now is a big 16G which the guy who owned it before me bought and gave me the reciepts. now looking on the turbo, it says TD05H....so what is the difference in the 2? they both have the same openings, flanges and look pretty damn close aside frome the new one being cleaner. How can I tell what the old turbo is? Is there some sort of markings or such aside from the stamp?
 
now I do have a question. to use this palm as a data logger, where can i get the cable to hook up to it?
Another thing I was wondering is if I get the dsmlink do I still need to get the chip for my ecu? I got the 1k rc injectors. also what is a good boost controller to get, electronic or manual? which one is better?

Ebay, or make your own using the search button.

It's a matter of preference i guess...for FWD or in your case being RWD I'd go dual stage electric so you can step the boost in two levels. (ie: 13psi till 3.5k then 20psi after)

ok so everything for my fueling will be here with in a few days but here is whats puzzling me.... I went to install my new turbo which is a TD05H 20G turbo and is stamped on the turbo housing. whats puzzling me is the turbo I have on the car now is a big 16G which the guy who owned it before me bought and gave me the receipts. now looking on the turbo, it says TD05H....so what is the difference in the 2? they both have the same openings, flanges and look pretty damn close aside from the new one being cleaner. How can I tell what the old turbo is? Is there some sort of markings or such aside from the stamp?

Post pictures, look at the casting numbers. Search for how to identify the turbo- there is numbers. It's possible you have a bastard 20G (Evo316G compressor cover with a 20g wheel stuffed inside), or you just bought the e-bay knock-off crap.
 
thanks for the info again viprez I think its a basterd 20g. i found somthing a while back on the old turbo I have but couldnt find anything on the new turbo.
 
ok so I went with the pte 880cc injectors, aem fuel rail, aem afpr, and the walbro 255 do you think the injectors will be big enough for what im doing?
 
I think I finally have her tuned out. I decided on the dsmlink and just picked up a new laptop to run the program so I can finish tuning her. Right now I can get her up to 20 psi before fuel cut. I only did it once just to see what this new turbo has in it.All I can say it its truely amaizing! My fuel pump and injectors came in on sat so now im just waiting on the fuel rail and AFPR. Next mods are going to be the internals such as pistons, rod, cams and such. any recomendations?
 
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