New problem! Weird Idle "Video"

[Eclipse37]

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OK guys I went and turned on the car today and this is what I got... Im not sure what the problem is. Ive replaced the Cam Position Sensor and the Crank Position Sensor, Also replacing the Knock Sensor that will be in to tomorrow. Also ordering 1G BOV and flange. But im not sure what this could be I mean it sounds like a really horrible idle surge but im not sure so I figured id see what U guys thought of it. Let me know what u think. Idle goes from 1K RPM to like 200 or less rpm almost shuts off then repeats.

 

[jdd1231]

My 93 nt idled like this when I ran it with no alt belt.

 

[Eclipse37]

My 93 nt idled like this when I ran it with no alt belt.

Replaced ALL belts less then a week ago. Also is there any way I can cross reference that the engine in the car now is the one that was made with the car? Or to see if the CPU is the original CPU? That came with the vehicle when it was made?

 

[91boostfedGSX]

Idle Surge...same On My DSM...check Your Idle Air Control Valve...throttle Position Sensor...for Mine It Was The Idle Air Control..

 

[Eclipse37]

Idle Surge...same On My DSM...check Your Idle Air Control Valve...throttle Position Sensor...for Mine It Was The Idle Air Control..

I wish I could I just bought a $129 CPU scanned and I can't get it to read the CPU and I know the 1995's are OBD2. SO im coming to the conclusion that the car has some sort of electrical issue. Cause I connect the tool the the OBD2 sensor and it's supposed to power the tool from the battery and it wont turn on so I turn it on manually and try to scam and says it's not connected.

 

[Eclipse37]

Im trying to eliminate issues one by one so wiring is whats first. Does this look like factory wiring? Cause it looks kinda hack job to me :/ Let me know. U have 2 huge green wires spliced into 2 white wires with 2 black wires.? That doesn't look like it's supposed to look like that.

 

[niddydsm]

my 94 gst idled the same thing but it cut out after the third drop in idle. it was my fuel pump

 

[Eclipse37]

my 94 gst idled the same thing but it cut out after the third drop in idle. it was my fuel pump

Well the thing is it dun do it all the time It did that I took the video pulled the battery cable re-connected it and it made it alot better. It still fluctuated but wasn't nearly as bad as it was in the video.

 

[chadnum1]

Thats factory wiring. Mitsubishi likes the birds nest look. Definatly sounds like you isc or tps. And I havent found a cheap code reader that works on a dsm yet. I have 3 different models from kragen and none of them link to our OBD2 system. Use a palm n stein logger or go crazy with the $3000 SNAP ON set

 

[Eclipse37]

Thats factory wiring. Mitsubishi likes the birds nest look. Definatly sounds like you isc or tps. And I havent found a cheap code reader that works on a dsm yet. I have 3 different models from kragen and none of them link to our OBD2 system. Use a palm n stein logger or go crazy with the $3000 SNAP ON set

I had the OBD2 scanned no longer then 2 weeks ago at auto zone with the same hand held scanner I bought. It worked fine on my 1997 eclipse RS. But at this point im trying to find out if

1. The OBD2 sensor is shit
2. The OBD2 isn't communicating with the CPU.
OR 3 which I really hope it's not
3. The CPU is shit.

Wuts u think. Anyone know how much of a pain in the ass it is to rewire OBD2?


I tried to test the voltage Im getting 12V from the battery but I could get any Volts from the OBD2 cause the power from the battery is supposed to power the toll and it won't so im kinda thinking there is sum thing keeping the OBD2 from getting power. I can't do shit with the car unless I can see wut the codes are so I can fix the problems so the car can run correctly.

 

[Eclipse37]

ALSO I forgot to mention I checked pin 16 and the OBD2 isn't getting any power anyone know what would cause this? any suggestions? I checked pin 16 no power grounded it to chassis in pin 4.

 

[chadnum1]

The scanners work on non turbo cars because they use a different system and ecu. If your ecu was shit it wouldnt throw the cel. Also if it the ecu wasnt reading the system it would go to limp mode causing you to run slightly rich ut not causing your problem. Try tapping the tps and isc with a screwdriver handle lightly while its running to see if the idle changes. However the isc will not throw a cel but the tps will.

 

[chadnum1]

Also Im on my 6th dsm and I have all 3 scanners kragen sells and they dont read our cars. See if someone near you has a logger it will be your best friend

 

[Eclipse37]

Also Im on my 6th dsm and I have all 3 scanners kragen sells and they dont read our cars. See if someone near you has a logger it will be your best friend

Lol I bought the same scanner that autozone used to scan my car which when they did I got a cam position sensor code and knock sensor I replaced the CPS and the knock sensor will be in tomorrow. So I dun see why this scanner won't read. Also im not getting anyone power from the 16TH pin. Im so ####ing confused and I don't want to go out and buy another scanner for like $300+ to find out that the OBD2 plug is shit or the wiring is ####ed which is what im kinda leaning forward 2 since the 16th pin isn't getting any battery power.

 

[the_illest_fool]

check your fuses, and its likely the tps i had they same problem on the 95 i just picked up

 

[kenamond]

You can buy a pocketlogger and a used PDA for ~$175. It will read and clear codes and log various sensor data. I think there are other options out there as well...like OBDGauge and EVOScan, but I think you need a cable that costs $90 for either of them and you still need the PDA. But one of those might be a bit cheaper than pocketlogger.

The problem sounds like idle surge, but I'm not an expert. I think the ISC kicks in when the ECU senses that you're at idle, and it does that via the TPS. If the TPS reads too high, it knows you're not idling...that sort of thing. The ISC controls a needle valve that controls extra air bypassing the throttle plate and therefore controls idle. The ISC is a stepper motor that makes incremental adjustments to the needle valve based on what the ECU tells it. The ECU is shooting for 750rpm and controlling the ISC to get there.

I've also heard that if the BISS is not in the ballpark, that can cause idle surge problems. Anyway, search on "idle surge" and see if there's a procedure for tracking down the problem. It might be outlined in a Haynes manual but I've never checked that part of my manual.

As far as the OBD2 port, go back to the same Autozone and see if their reader can read your code. If it can, your scanner is bad or the wrong model or needs batteries.

If you plan on modding the car, get a logger. Return the scanner. A logger can do what the scanner does plus it can log sensor data which is essential for safely increasing boost, etc.

 

[Eclipse37]

You can buy a pocketlogger and a used PDA for ~$175. It will read and clear codes and log various sensor data. I think there are other options out there as well...like OBDGauge and EVOScan, but I think you need a cable that costs $90 for either of them and you still need the PDA. But one of those might be a bit cheaper than pocketlogger.

The problem sounds like idle surge, but I'm not an expert. I think the ISC kicks in when the ECU senses that you're at idle, and it does that via the TPS. If the TPS reads too high, it knows you're not idling...that sort of thing. The ISC controls a needle valve that controls extra air bypassing the throttle plate and therefore controls idle. The ISC is a stepper motor that makes incremental adjustments to the needle valve based on what the ECU tells it. The ECU is shooting for 750rpm and controlling the ISC to get there.

I've also heard that if the BISS is not in the ballpark, that can cause idle surge problems. Anyway, search on "idle surge" and see if there's a procedure for tracking down the problem. It might be outlined in a Haynes manual but I've never checked that part of my manual.

As far as the OBD2 port, go back to the same Autozone and see if their reader can read your code. If it can, your scanner is bad or the wrong model or needs batteries.

If you plan on modding the car, get a logger. Return the scanner. A logger can do what the scanner does plus it can log sensor data which is essential for safely increasing boost, etc.

I had it read like 2 weeks ago at autozone worked orderd the parts needed went to checkers auto a week ago tried to have it scanned wouldn't work kinda figured the dude didn't know how to do it. SO I got one myself and its not working so I think I have an electrical problem with the OBD port I mean I can take it to autozone agin and see if it will work. But like I said before I tried to see if the port was getting battery power and its not cause U dun need batteries to use the tool it's supposed to run off the cars battery when u turn the ignition to the on position. So im kinda like WTF. I can't do anything with the car til I can get it scanned so I can fix the check engine issues so I can go get it emissions tested and I can't get it emissions tested if the OBd2 port won't function.

 

[Eclipse37]

Well im going to drive the car to auto zone tomorrow have them try to scan it with their scanner agin and if it works see why mine isn't. Also have to pick up the knock sensor and get that on. Oh and I checked all the fuses under the driver side they are all good. Also all fuses under the hood are good. Someone was saying that the scanner has a pin in the 15 slot but on the OBD2 port the power is in the 16th and the scanner dun have a pin for the 16th.

 

[Eclipse37]

MMM shit my boost gauge stopped working now.... Anyone know how this would be hooked up? vacuum hose or sum thing? where would I look to re-connect it?

 

[kenamond]

The stock boost gauge gets its signal from the ECU. The ECU calculates what it thinks the boost is and sends that to the gauge. If it's aftermarket and the light went out, trace that wire and see where it's spliced into the existing harness and check fuses from there. If it's aftermarket and is a mechanical gauge and isn't reading boost, the vaccuum line either came loose or got a hole in it or broke. Different folks run the line through the firewall different ways and pick a different place to get a boost signal.

 

[Dominator]

I had the same problem with a 1995 TSi that I had. Turned out to be the Idle Air Control Valve. Put a new one on and worked like a champ.

 

[Eclipse37]

I had the same problem with a 1995 TSi that I had. Turned out to be the Idle Air Control Valve. Put a new one on and worked like a champ.

It's just hte once with the gauges in the video I posted. Its right by my RPM gauge. I'll check the Wires.

 

[Eclipse37]

Im not how how or why but both of the ABS fuses are missing anyone know if that would mess with other car functions?

 

[GSTyler]

I had a similar problem in mine and it was because the IACV was dirty and grimed up. I removed it and cleaned it and the hole it go's into with carb cleaner.

 

[sarge281]

Hell, I've had problems with Autozone checking CEL codes on my car. Sometimes they'll tell me they can't run it for codes '### it a '95 model. They claim their testers will only work on "96 & newer models. I've been told that by a couple different AutoZones. I tell them it's a '96, and no big deal. Weird like that.

I second the ISC motor. Try checking it. When my ISC first began malfuctioning, it didn't throw a CEL. I would try driving it during the summertime w/ the AC on, and it would try to die at stoplights. The ISC was going out.