new guy, what are the mods i have?

[eagle1g]

hello everyone, im new to the site and dsm's

ive been wondering what mods are done to my dsm.
i have a 91 talon tsi awd

so far i know the car has a turbo timer, eprom ecu w/ some kind of chip and 1000cc injectors and a few other things i dont fully understand..

when im at a dead stop and i hit the pedal to the floor it revs at 4000 rpm but when te cars in motion it will go beyone 4000 rpm when i rev. launch control? its odd because on hot days i can pin it at a stop and itll stay at 4000 rpm and then release itself and go past 4000 rpm.

a loud noise coming from the fuel tank, whining and annoying... 255 fuelpump?

when i make u turns or sharp turns the back tire skips around or locks up so to say. welded rear diff?

if i boost above 13 pounds it loses power and car bogs out and loses boost. boost leak / fuel cut? kinda odd if i have a fp dontcha think? intercooler is stock as well.

any ideas?

 

[LandoAWD]

Welcome. Please follow the grammar rules you just agreed to.


That said, your guesses seem pretty spot on. Pictures could help if there's more under-hood that you're unsure about.

I would certainly boost-leak test the car.

 

[rEclipserGST]

Pictures and a Video please.

 

[jakk220]

I would do a boost leak test for sure to see if that is whats causing your power loss. As far as everything else goes you seem to be right about the fuel pump, launch control, and welded rear differential. More than likely the chip you are referring to is DSMlink.

 

[LandoAWD]

More than likely the chip you are referring to is DSMlink.

I would say that's less likely than a custom EEPROM.

If he cracks the ECU, it's say "ECMLINK" to confirm or not.

 

[eagle1g]

Sorry about that LandoAWD,

I have cracked open the ecu previously and have inspected the chip. it does not say "dsmlink" or "ECM link". From what i could see it was a few numbers and the letters NLTS at the end. Ive researched and came up with no lift to shift.

I am wanting to run a boost leak test. But my knowledge on these cars is limited.

 

[LandoAWD]

Yeah, some JeffO style chip, or similar.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html

You can DIY the tester, too.

 

[Funfettie]

Boost leak or fuel cut. You sure there 1000cc's? Post a picture or 2 of the engine bay and maybe a video! Congratz on the new car! (I assume thats the case!)

 

[LandoAWD]

Based on the chip description, he can check there for the injector size, too.

1000/4k/NLTS <-stuff like that is on most burns that are sold.

 

[eagle1g]

I have called turbo&engine and gave them the serial number on the injectors and they comfirmed they are 1000cc. the full number on the chip is "M100075005TNLTS". Thankyou for the link, once i get on a computer i will print that out and post pix.

 

[aj2494]

You definitely have a welded rear diff, and what you are experiencing with the rpm's staying at 4000 is a rev limiter. When the clutch is not engaged, you can keep the accelerator all the way down and the engine will only rev to 4000. This allows you to keep the accelerator down during shifting. Try it next time you take it out.

 

[Bud92gsx]

You definitely have a welded rear diff, and what you are experiencing with the rpm's staying at 4000 is a rev limiter. When the clutch is not engaged, you can keep the accelerator all the way down and the engine will only rev to 4000. This allows you to keep the accelerator down during shifting. Try it next time you take it out.

Launch control not rev limiter...Works kinda the same it does limit the rpms, but it's called launch control..

 

[potHead4sur]

You pretty much got everything on spot. I would,only suggest not racing or accelerating too much before you tune it.

 

[aj2494]

Sorry, all I've been doing is shopping, so I don't actually own a dsm yet. My bad. I was thinking you had to turn on launch control.

 

[Jon91TSi]

You definitely have a welded rear diff, and what you are experiencing with the rpm's staying at 4000 is a rev limiter. When the clutch is not engaged, you can keep the accelerator all the way down and the engine will only rev to 4000. This allows you to keep the accelerator down during shifting. Try it next time you take it out.

Not entirely correct. A welded center diff will do this as well. The reason being: the rear tires can no longer turn the same speed as the front tires while cornering, and since there is significantly less weight on the rear of the car the rear tires will skip. I don't know of many DSM'ers who weld their rear diff, there really is no reason to do so. Please don't post unless you know.

 

[silicosys4]

^^ likewise

 

[Jon91TSi]

^^ likewise

Read. Nobody welds their rear differentials in these cars, there is no reason to do so. The viscous rear coupling does an awesome job. He made the assumption because he comes from the v8 world where it's very common to weld your rear differential. I'm not being biased here, I've owned 6 Mustangs myself. I know exactly where he was coming from.

 

[eagle1g]

The car only stays at 4000 when im stationary. When im in motion and clutch it itll go past 4000 rpm. Even if im stationary and clutch it, it still stays at 4000 rpm. im lost in this matter.

 

[Jon91TSi]

The car only stays at 4000 when im stationary. When im in motion and clutch it itll go past 4000 rpm. Even if im stationary and clutch it, it still stays at 4000 rpm. im lost in this matter.

The chip is causing your car to do this, it is a stationary rev limiter, or stutterbox. It's used to build boost off the line for racing. Once you start rolling and reach a threshhold usually 5+ mph the stutterbox will turn off and your regular rev limiter will take over. This will all start over when you stop again of course.

 

[eagle1g]

Read. Nobody welds their rear differentials in these cars, there is no reason to do so. The viscous rear coupling does an awesome job. He made the assumption because he comes from the v8 world where it's very common to weld your rear differential. I'm not being biased here, I've owned 6 Mustangs myself. I know exactly where he was coming from.

Smart guy here, owned 6 5.0's and 2 4.6's

 

[jpmxrider489]

If you dont have dsmlink you probably have a custom chip. Does the chip say anything. As far as the whining, it is a wally 255 pump. I rewired mine and it does not whine as loud. You can do that. As far as the welded diff, im not sure. If you take pics we can tell you more. Other than whats said, welcome to the club. For a BLT (boost leak test), Remove the intake attached to your turbo and get a tester and crank air in there with a compressor. If you get soapy water and spray you can see if it bubbles. You can also hear it. Most common leaks are around the throttle body, j pipe, couplers, and some of your gaskets. Dont forget to check your vacume lines.

 

[eagle1g]

The chip is causing your car to do this, it is a stationary rev limiter, or stutterbox. It's used to build boost off the line for racing. Once you start rolling and reach a threshhold usually 5+ mph the stutterbox will turn off and your regular rev limiter will take over. This will all start over when you stop again of course.

Appreceate your knowledge, can you maybe explain to me why sometimes it releases itself and goes past 4000? launching at 4000 is lame, you have to really ride the clutch in order to come out of the hole nicely.

 

[Jon91TSi]

Appreceate your knowledge, can you maybe explain to me why sometimes it releases itself and goes past 4000? launching at 4000 is lame, you have to really ride the clutch in order to come out of the hole nicely.

Not a problem. The stationary rev limiter shouldn't turn off unless you start rolling. The reason its at 4000your rpm is because small frame turbos don't require a lot of rpm to get going off line. As a general rule of thumb the bigger the turbo the more rpm you will require. Excuse the punctuation, voice recognition on my phone.

 

[eagle1g]

If you dont have dsmlink you probably have a custom chip. Does the chip say anything. As far as the whining, it is a wally 255 pump. I rewired mine and it does not whine as loud. You can do that. As far as the welded diff, im not sure. If you take pics we can tell you more. Other than whats said, welcome to the club. For a BLT (boost leak test), Remove the intake attached to your turbo and get a tester and crank air in there with a compressor. If you get soapy water and spray you can see if it bubbles. You can also hear it. Most common leaks are around the throttle body, j pipe, couplers, and some of your gaskets. Dont forget to check your vacume lines.

this is what the chip says M100075005TNLTS

I wish it wasnt set at 4000, i feel like im going to stall or burn the clutch out.

is there a way i could just go wot since i have the limiter and spray the vacuum / boost hoses with soapy water? kind of short on funds right now.

 

[Tiki2777]

fyi, you're going to want to look into a front mount intercooler and possibly a new bov if you have an upgraded turbo. That stock sidemount is absolutely horrific at cooling and airflow, so i wouldn't get on it too much or you might get heatsoaked, pop off an ic pipe, or something else bad. But congrats on the new car.