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New Gst Spyder but runs like crap

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dadnkid

10+ Year Contributor
57
0
May 14, 2011
luke afb, Arizona
Just bought a used 99 Eclipse Gst Spyder Auto from a towing companyROFL. Was told and from the looks of it, it needed a lot of work. So when I arrived at towing company, car didnt start. Lucky I had another battery with me, just in case. Started right on up. Belt squeeled a little then stopped. Towing company told me it's been sitting for a while, like months. None of the service has been done to it. The gas light was on and gauge was well below "E". They had it since Oct of 2010. As we talked about and looked at car, it continue to run and not over heat. I couldnt drive it on the road due to expired tags but did drive it on small dirt back road but nothing over 10 mph. Walked away with it for $1700 with 160xxx miles. I print out a temp tag to get it home. Headed to gas station for some gas before hitting the freeway. Filled up with half a tank of premium from shell. When I started car back up,the gas gauge didnt even move. As i'm leaving, the car has minmual power, takes about 10 seconds to get to 20 mph with me pushing the gas pedal down half way. so I was going to baby it home but came to a stop light and as im waiting for a green light, car die on me. Started right back up without me having to push the gas pedal. push it in drive and it moves slow again. then when i get to about 20mph it seems like the turbo kicks in and it takes off. anything above 40 and it runs fine. not like it suppose to but keeps speed good. dones bogg down or anything. i used 1/4 tank driving 45 miles at 60mph. when i go to get off the freeway and come to a stop, im thinking its going to die or have no power when i give it gas to go but it goes fine. come to another stop sign and no problem. the next day. i start car, belt squeeled and drove around base to see if it had a problem. Good to go for about 1 mile. Come to a stop sign and when I give it gas, it has no power. I floor it and goes like I'm barely pushing the pedal.

Now, this is where I need everyones help. What do I need to do? so far, this is my game plan but anything you guy have, please throw it out there

- air filter : dirty but still usable
- fuel filter: still need to check
- spark plugs: previous owner had BKR5EGP gap to 41. going to get BPR6ES
- Compression test: all four are 120 exactly. going to get another tester. all low with the same number is crazy to me but im new to this
- Radiator flush: fluided it rushed color
- Negative battery cable: Rusted and barely hanging on

Also, the car is completely stock.:banghead:
 
I looked at a red one 5spd at the corner of my street, mom/pop dealer. Condition is good, couldnt see the interior due to rain steam the windows but it has a greedy shift knob.

Keep us updated with your build, post up pics if you have any. Have fun :thumb:
 
Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners

"The first thing you need to do is a complete tune up. Replace all worn belts, including the timing belt and balance shaft belt. If the timing belt/balance shaft belt haven't been replaced within the last 60k miles, or you're not sure when they were last changed - change them now. If they break, you'll be paying for a cylinder head rebuild (not cheap). You'll also want to change out all filters, fluids, worn hoses, spark plugs/wires, and worn/leaking gaskets. Check the compression, do a leak-down test, check your ignition timing, etc. Basically, do all of the checks that your repair manual tells you to do - you do have a repair manual already, don't you? If not, pick one up now before moving forward with any modifications."
 
I would start with maintenence..Fuel filter, plugs, wires, air filter, oil change, tranny flush, radiator flush, tighten up the squeeking belt, new gas..And soon I would add water pump timing belt, since you don't know when the last stuff has been done..

Would do a boost leak test asap..

Also it's an auto and you said it took a while to get up to speed..Does it feel like the car is starting in 3rd, or does it shift?

I can tell you that.041 gap is waay to much..It should be under.030 even tho the manual says .032..

I think 1700$ was a little much considering, but It's your car now, so no going back..
 
Thanks for all the inputs and soon as I get pictures, ill get them posted. Oil change is on the list of things. Also thinking about doing a seafoam. Boost leak test will happen soon as I get one. The car shifts. When it has no power. Seems like its starting in third but it shifts like its in first

Well today, i didnt get much done. The wife wanted to spend time together (which wasnt bad) but sad to say, im mind was still on the car. I did get away for an hour or two get some parts to build a boost leak tester. Went together easy. I'll post pictures of it when i find my cord to connect to computer. So i took apart the air intake going to the turbo. Needed to make sure my boost tester fitted. while i was there, i checked for shaft play on the turbo. It did move about 1 or 2 cm up and down. the movement was very little. I thought it would be more do to the high miles. turbo blades looked good too. it spinned freely. Was thinking since I didnt have any power low end that the blades where maybe stuck but they move good.

I also took off the front O2 Sensor. It's an aftermarket, universal Bosch i believe. After searching for the wires layout on how to connect, I found that the wires were connected wrong. It should be

SENSOR ----> OEM HARNESS:
white --------> black ( heater wire +/- )
white --------> black ( heater wire +/- )
black --------> blue ( ground )
grey ---------> white ( signal )

but one of the white from the sensor was connected to the signal. hopefully this is my major fix for loosing power after the car was driven for a mile, sounding like a lawnmower. im still going to do a boost like test and all the other things but hopefully this give me a lot.
 
Update...
The car is running much much better. Rewired the O2 sensor correctly. Cleaned the MAS and did a Boost leak test. Found a major leak at the bottom of the turbo coupling to running to the intercooler. I still have a leak coming from the back of the engine on on the passenger side between the engine and battery. I read about the throttle body leaking but i sprayed it down and got no bubbles. I still get a whinning sound when driving so i know i still have a leak somewhere

But the car losing power is fixed. Still not where the power should be but it has power. Took it to emissions yester day and passed in 1 minute...nice. So off to the DMV or MDV depending where you live.

Other things notice is
 
Sounds like its shaping up to be a nice car! As other said, keep up with maintenance
 
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