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EclipseGS-92

10+ Year Contributor
100
0
Aug 17, 2008
Selma, Alabama
Installed a FMIC and MBC this past weekend with a new J-pipe and 90 degree with NPT fitting. Car was running 14.7 afr at idle and cruising - 10.8 to 10.2 while boosting. Car boosted fine ( sometimes a little boost creep).

Now after the installation of the Afore meantioned parts my AFR at idle (warm) was 13.8 - cannot get above 3k with a load before afr hits 8.1 and bucks. In nuetral revving it hits the red line then sounds like an antilag was put on before slowly drowning itself and blowing black smoke. ( afr hits 7.6 )

I have tried adjusting the MAFT for the conditions and will be boost leak testing it this week.

I have finally raised the Idle AFR ( warm) back to 14.7-15.2 Fluctuating and my mid throttle is seeing about 11.4 but the Boost stops at about 4 PSI and i feel a buck. ( OBX MBC turned Half Open).

I cant see the upper RPM ranges at all in the car now.

ANy suggestions would be greatly appreciated
 
Boost leak it, and use water and liquid soup in a bottle and trigger like an empty Windex bottle, it will help a lot. That's what I have done in my car, without it I couldn't hear anything.
 
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ya im in the process of collecting the parts to build my tester, ive fixed a few Vac leaks here and there, and got a quick question about my bov.. I went back to my 1g oem after i installed a greddy RS-S knock off.. now on the top of the cap it had a sticky grey gasket like materials.. after i heard it blow off a total of 3 times the car started stumbling hard... come to find out it blew out or sucked in the material in the top of the cap. so i swapped back to my 1g on a 90 pipe but still have the greddy knockoff in line just not connected.

Do you know if this is something i can rememdy on the BOV or should i just scrap it and get a new one? ( lookin for the quieter sound VS my 1g and the chirp)
 
First of all you need to find that missing sticky gasket, let's hope it did get sucked into the TB. Safety first. For the greddy RS-S knock off, you need to get the real stuff, it does not matter what it is just get a proven brand name BOV. I have learned the hard way with eBay crap.....I snapped my timing belt and destroyed my engine. So stay away from anything knocks off or you can rebuild it before using it. The 1g BOV is a good backup. I did not have any issues with it when I had it installed in my car.

Dude watch this
YouTube - Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the tool.
 
ALso not sure what the issue is with my Jpipe, it is like they didnt bend it correctly as it pushes into my radiator fan so tight i can barely get a coupler on it.
 
Do you the stock fans or aftermarket. Try to get a two slim ones and make sure to get them with shrouds. its important to do so because without shrouds the heat from the exhaust, and in the engine bay will be effecting to cooling cycle in the radiator. Again I have learned the hard way. installing a shroud will block in a way the heat, making the fans pull air from the front of the especially you have the FMIC installed blocking the air from flowing easily.
This one should help a little bit http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/324838-slim-fan-install.html

I know its for 2g but see the concept.
 
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Ya, thats true. Im looking to install a mishimoto radiator and 2x slim fans this week after i get back from IA. Also apparently the j pipe has been pushed so hard on the fan shroud that its caused the front bolt hole on the jpipe to strip some, so now im leaking boost there.


Boost leak tested it last night, injector seals BOV ( replaced it ) and a spot where apparently a rock slung into the U shape pipe denting it in the size of my thumb.

Cleaned it up some now its holding 15 PSI running the 14.7 idle and cruise, and 10.7 in boost. Did a few pulls in 4th from 3500 to 6500 and she runs great now after a few leaks fixed and some fine tuning on the MAFT though these settings are still compensating for the boost leak i already have
 
Thanks. But ended up leaving her at home since lower radiator hose popped and a rock slung from the tire into my charge pipe and I haven't had a chance to make my appointment at topspeed for this weekend. Headed to import alliance in a few hours at the GA dome
 
Just an update on this thread, i may or may not have been using public highways to race. And i may or may not have dropped my intake valve through the number one piston exploding the cylinder wall in the process, and i may or may not have been doing over 155.

Car is in the shop still and has been since october of last year for a complete rebuild, New motor- radiator - full charge system rework from short route custom piping to new couplers and tbolts - new slim fams and aluminum radiator cover - new JMfab Intercooler mount - new exhaust manifold - porting manifold and turbo - full engine bay clean and tuck - engine and v/c painted/powdercoated - ARP heads and mains studs - Cometic Headgasket - A/C delete - BSE kit - Gates timing belt - all new accessory belt - Silicone radiator hoses - Clutch replacement - New oil housing - Turbo oil feed relocated - and fully boost leak tested with a minor street tune to get me by til i can get it dyno'ed

Looking at having this baby out friday finally if all goes as planned. In the market for another turbo, leaning towards an hx35 but could be swayed if the power/price is right, also seeking 750cc+ injectors and ideas on rims. Leaning toward Black 5 star or a split 5 star design concaved with a polished lip i can have powdercoated or anodized in a neon yellow/green
 
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