New engine problems (maybe)

[a-pissed-guy]

Ok, I've been searching the forums and cant find anything matching my specific problem.

First off, I have a 99 eclipse RS (2.0 DOHC). I blew the engine a few months ago by driving thru water. So I replaced the engine (420a engine) with 60k miles. Everything is running fine except recently it has been stalling. I will start it up and drive it and once I let off of the clutch , sometimes it will idle so low that it stalls. The check engine light is on and I took it to autozone so they sould check it with there computer thing and they said its said something about the emissions. Also, i'm getting vibration in the clutch pedal. Any ideas?

 

[dr1665]

The check engine light is on and I took it to autozone so they sould check it with there computer thing and they said its said something about the emissions. Also, i'm getting vibration in the clutch pedal. Any ideas?

Could be the EGR system. If you look at the engine from the front, on the right corner will be this silver, UFO-looking job. Upon closer examination, you will find there is a metal pipe coming from it that runs along the head and comes up on the back of the intake manifold, just left of the throttle body. If the pipe is clogged, or the solenoid is fubared (there is also a black, UFO-looking thing there), then the engine will not get as much exaust gas flow into the engine and it will bog down like that.

Try unplugging the electrical connector going to the little black UFO job (which controls this flow) and see how the car runs. I want to say that the ECU won't try closing down the IAC to test for flow from the EGR if it knows it's on the fritz.

As for the clutch pedal vibes, you might get a flashlight and take a peak up under the dash at where it's all bolted up. They tend to leak after a few years. Could be a loose bolt or maybe nothing at all.

Good luck to you, sir.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Go back to Autozone and have them give you the exact CEL code. We can only speculate without it.

My first guess is that some vacuum line (such as the EVAP, or EGR line) isn't hooked up correctly. But like I said, we can do very little without that code.

 

[a-pissed-guy]

the code thqat they got was p 1494 if i remember correctly. A quick fix that i did was tighten the throttle cable slightly to maintain the idle at higher rpms

 

[4UH8ERS]

the code thqat they got was p 1494 if i remember correctly. A quick fix that i did was tighten the throttle cable slightly to maintain the idle at higher rpms

2GNT is not up now so heres something i found on here.

qouted by doug99rs

Thank god. Someone who doesn't always have a beef with the dealership. Anyways.
Yeah, another wording for p1494 is Leak Detection Pump Pressure Switch or Mechanical Fault. Like Don't Need 8 was saying it's emissions related and won't hurt the car.

That Evaporative Leak Detection pump is designed to pump a small amount of air in to the gas tank and fuel vapor lines. It pressurizes it by 2-3 pounds. There's a sensor that detects that pressure. When the computer runs a test and sees a drop in that pressure it assumes either the pump is not doing it's job or there is a leak in the system. That leak in the system equates to raw gas fumes/liquid in extreme cases going in to the atmosphere as polution. When working properly the system is good at letting the repair technician know that there's a leak. However, alot of times that pump either hangs or quits working all together. And that particular code would indicate that there's a problem with the pump mechanism itself.

Related codes are Large leak detected, Medium leak detected and small leak detected. Pretty clear what they mean. But what some people don't know is that pumping gas with the car running will cause this pressure job and thus throw the light. Also leaving off vacuum lines in the engine bay will cause this. However, I don't think these conditions apply to your case given the code.
Doug