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multiple problems, maybe one solution?

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Timothyj94

10+ Year Contributor
166
0
Jun 6, 2011
Glen ellyn, Illinois
my car: 1995 automatic 420a eclipse

So i rebuilt my engine and replaced;
crankshaft
bearings
piston rings
gaskets
water pump
and a few other small things nothing big or important.

why i rebuilt:

my last engine blew up, litterlally rod snapped and piston exploded, was in pieces in the oil pan, block was done.

i got a block and head from the junk yard, used the old intake manifold and ect, it had a broken rod, so i used 1 rod/piston from the old engine
also have no catalytic converter (never a problem before)

engine has about 2000 miles on it now.

heres the problems in having, and before i tinker in the cold im looking for oppinions

really bad milage, i get only 200 miles per tank, before i got 300-350
smell of gas? especially on start/warm up
oil leaking very bad out the botton back of engine, cant find source (probably obvious how to fix just stating)
REALLY rough idle, whole car shakes at stop/idle. also having a weird thing happen with rpms they like fluquate(idk) when cruising or idling ill upload video
car drops to like 500 or less rpms (almost dies sometimes) coming to a stop then comes back up to like 900
power steering pump is making excessive noise, and also the belt is being "eaten" up (getting less wide)

anythoughts? i also messed with the fuel pump when trying to start it (it wasnt coming on, found out i forgot to plug one thing in by the starter, it works now obviously)

*EDIT* ALSO: when braking, sometimes is really slow especially after startign the car (backing out of driveway, when i brake its slow not tight, my pads are fine and so is fluid)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/dUYd3jiN7NU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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maybe when you were putting the motor back in,the o-ring that goes between the fuel line and the fuel rail fell out.mine kept falling out.I had to put a little grease on it so it would stay in.You wont see it leak with the motor off,but it will leak while driving.

why just buy the block and head?I picked up complete motor with trans 71,000 for $500 at the junk yard.

I also had gas blowing out the tank seal.When you took out the fuel pump was it all stiff and hard?(the seal):sneaky:
 
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maybe when you were putting the motor back in,the o-ring that goes between the fuel line and the fuel rail fell out.mine kept falling out.I had to put a little grease on it so it would stay in.You wont see it leak with the motor off,but it will leak while driving.

why just buy the block and head?I picked up complete motor with trans 71,000 for $500 at the junk yard.

my dad decided to go pick it up while i was at school, needless to say he picked a motor with a broken rod, so we just used the block and head. it was 300$ so whatever.

also u mean the little 2 bolt flange between fuel rail and fuel line? u got a picture, shit i didnt even know there was a gasket there, how bad can it leak?? 1/3 a tank in 200 miles??, and would this explain the rough idle. (could i test this by testing fuel pressure in rail?)

*EDIT* to the fuel pump seal no i didnt check, could be gas coming out under the seat WTF!!
 
if its not in there its probably leaking.Wait now I'm not sure if I stuck a paper gasket with some sealant or a o-ring on the little nub stickin out from the gas line side.Sorry dude ,I forgot!

yea. check the lines under back seat also.When I through my 255 wally in I had gas comming from the tank seal.
 
Yea, I would check anything fuel related. From the tank to the injectors. Sounds like poor fuel sending and something in the lines. Yes their is a rubber o-ring that goes from line to fuel rail.

I also had problems getting that o-ring to stay.

But your not running any CEL's?

I would also check your coil pack and wires and the plugs as well. Make sure they are getting spark. And they are not all oxidized.

Then another thing to check is your o2 sensors. We have two.

Then also check fuel pressure.

I put headers on my car and watched my MPG drop. I get about 200-230 miles a tank now. When I use to get 300-350 miles before I put them on. I also noticed no sound difference and nothing in power.

I rebuilt my 420a and did a lot of research on them. Feel free to PM me if you need anything else.


- Nick
Email- [email protected]
Twitter- @FearlessNickCG
Vehicle- 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS
 
I'd take a peek at the injector O-rings, and the FPR as well. Since you have a 95, the FPR will be on the passenger side of the fuel rail. I had a similar problem once- Rough idle, hard to start, smell of gas, but there were no visible leaks. I ended up replacing the fuel rail/regulator and all my problems disappeared!
 
shouldnt be injectors or fpr? it worked fine before rebuilding and i didnt #### with them, also the im gettin all spark, and acceleration is good, new plugs tho.

also the oil pan pic, when i initially blew the engine, i thought i just broke a rod, took the head off... was like what. the. ####. the piston was missing, needless to say thats what i found.


also 95 has fpr on the fuel rail, and only 1 o2 sensor on the headers
 

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shouldnt be injectors or fpr? it worked fine before rebuilding and i didnt #### with them, also the im gettin all spark, and acceleration is good, new plugs tho.

also the oil pan pic, when i initially blew the engine, i thought i just broke a rod, took the head off... was like what. the. ####. the piston was missing, needless to say thats what i found.


also 95 has fpr on the fuel rail, and only 1 o2 sensor on the headers
I guess It chewed it up like a stump grinder!
 
shouldnt be injectors or fpr? it worked fine before rebuilding and i didnt #### with them, also the im gettin all spark, and acceleration is good, new plugs tho.

also the oil pan pic, when i initially blew the engine, i thought i just broke a rod, took the head off... was like what. the. ####. the piston was missing, needless to say thats what i found.


also 95 has fpr on the fuel rail, and only 1 o2 sensor on the headers

Still, stuff can go bad out of know where. Piece of gunk could of got somewhere.

You know what, check all the vacuum lines going to the intake.

That could fix the rough idle problem your having.

I remember having a problem like your after my build.

Go over all the vacuum lines. One of mine broke and re tubed it all and worked like a charm.

Then also check the TPS and IAC.


- Nick
Email- [email protected]
Twitter- @FearlessNickCG
Vehicle- 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS
 
Maybe try running a can of sea foam through the vac line,and dump half in the tank,see what happens.Make sure you change the oil afterwards.Any codes coming up?How about changing the fuel filter.Also check spark on each cylinder,could be a dead cylinder due to bad plug or wire.kep car idling and pull sparkplug wires one at a time.You can hear a difference if the plug is good.if you pull a wire off and car sounds the same then you found the dead cylinder.(easy way to check).Make sure you use insulated pliers!
 
For future, anyone reading this having this problem, I believe it is my Coolant Temp Sensor. Im gonna swap it out tommorow, the one on there is from my donor engine.
 
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