Rebuilt Engine, Multiple Misfire Codes

[Kyle97-clipse]

Just buy the iac off ebay thats what I did,worked perfectly and cheap!

 

[brassc2007]

i have a extra 420a iac laying around if you need one

 

[brassc2007]

i would just give it to ya if ya wanted it

 

[hurtconveyor303]

brassc2007, that would be great! does it work well?

 

[hurtconveyor303]

ronin, why shouldn't i run platnums or irridiums in the 420a? isn't double platnum plugs usually standard on most vehicles without distributors? i've just been researching plugs like crazy and the ngk platnum, double platnum, and irridiums all sound like they would work very well. irridium is stronger than platnum and can be machined down smaller to produce a brighter stronger spark from your stock power setup

 

[Fotowntalon]

has to do with our heat range, platinums and double platinums run much colder, they are better for trucks and vans. We want a plug with a hotter range, like coppers. As for iridiums, they are way to expensive especially when they do the same thing as the copper, only real reason to run irridiums is if your plugs are hard to get to, because they do last longer, but our cars plugs are very accesible so save your self a lot of money and run copper.

 

[hurtconveyor303]

thanks Fotowntalon. that makes sense. well i think i'm torn between the ngk v-power and denso standard plugs. i'm going to wait to get new plugs till i get a new tps and that iac brassc2007 said he'd give me

 

[RoninEclipse2G]

Get the NGKs, I've had nothing but good luck with them.

The other reason that irridium and multi-platinums don't do so well with our engines is that our ignition systems are just kinda picky. Even though they're SUPPOSED to be the same resistance they really aren't and the ECU will mess with the timing and whatnot to try and adjust for it, usually with less than great results

 

[brassc2007]

k you will have to pm me an address or something so i know where to send it to.

 

[hurtconveyor303]

k. brassc2007 i sent you a pm. thanks for everything on here guys. i'll let you know how things go

 

[brassc2007]

ya the sensor works fine i just replaced all of them in my car when i upgraded to the jeep 4.0 throttle body mod i will try to get it sent out for you tomarrow sorry bout the delay

 

[hurtconveyor303]

tell me about this jeep throttle body i've been hearing about? you just put it on your 420a? whats the deal here? , i'm curious

 

[Fotowntalon]

its a performance upgrade, to increase the size of your throttle body, there are basically 2 ways to go. The 55mm with a shaft bore i beleive its called (flows 57mm) or a 60mm TB which will give you more power, but you will be sacrificing a bit of low end for it. A jeep TB is a 60mm TB that is a cheap alternitive as opposed to buying a new TB or getting your old TB ported to 60mm.

 

[hurtconveyor303]

is that a direct replacement? any modifications needed and do the sensors plug right in?

 

[rstare]

2GNT.com - 60mm_Jeep_Throttle_Body

 

[hurtconveyor303]

alright guys. bad news. i replaced both the iac and the tps to only have my problem persist. any body have any more ideas?

 

[RoninEclipse2G]

did you ever check the plugs?

 

[hurtconveyor303]

the ngk v powers are on the way

 

[RoninEclipse2G]

Always start with the simplest things that could cause a problem. 99% of the time you'll find a cheap fix instead of playing the expensive "shotgun diagnosis" game.

 

[hurtconveyor303]

put in brand new ngk's. still the same problem. must be fuel. don't know what i'm gona do now. i'll just wait and take it to a shop. but i will still take anymore help if you have any

 

[bullettdsm]

Hmm, let's give something cheap a shot. I know you probably haven't pressure tested it but (even though this doesn't quite fit the problem) try spraying down the possible air leak areas with carb and choke (i.e. intake manifold joints, tb joint, injector seals etc.). Do it when you first start up and its running crappy. See if it affects the idle.

I'm wondering if you are sucking in air somewhere and it goes away when you warm up (through expansion). The description doesn't exactly fit the bill, but it certainly is worth the time spent.

I would strongly suspect bad gas generated the problem because it sat for so long. But if it was bad gas, it wouldn't just happen when you are cold.

MB

 

[#40Fan]

I am thinking along the same line. When it gets warm, something is growing and fixing the problem. My initial thought when the OP stated the original owner ran it out of oil is that the valve guides got marred up and they aren't letting some of the valves close as fast as they should, causing the miss. As the engine warms up, they expand, allowing the valve to move freely. But, with the valves of #3 and #4 cylinders being closest to the oil source (right rear of head) you would think that #1 and #2 ran out of oil first.

Then again, he mentioned the machine shop had to remove .007" from the head! Did the engine get hot as well as run out of oil? Or did they remove that much to clean up some of the pitting that is normal with these heads?

Swap #1 plug wire with #4. Then swap #2 with #3. See if the miss changes cylinder.

 

[hurtconveyor303]

the whole head has been apart and gone over. the valve guides are ok and the .007'' taken off the head was just to clean it up. the shop said there was a slight warp in the head so they took some off to even it out. i've swapped 1and 4 wires and 2 and 3 and the miss is still on cylinders 3 and 4. when we did the rebuild we just took the intake off from the block and then just reatached it when the motor was rebuilt. i just recently put on the new iac and tps along with cleaning out the intake manifold. i had to replace an elbow hose on top the throttle body. that thing sucks air like crazy when i pull it off the throttle body and idles wierd but when i plug it back in it runs smoother. i am trying to track down where that vacume line goes. (thinking it might be either clogged or hooked up wrong

 

[bullettdsm]

and the miss is still on cylinders 3 and 4.

Well, I hate to say it, but I would then swap the injectors to see if it follows

i had to replace an elbow hose on top the throttle body. that thing sucks air like crazy when i pull it off the throttle body and idles wierd but when i plug it back in it runs smoother. i am trying to track down where that vacume line goes. (thinking it might be either clogged or hooked up wrong

Its part of your emissions/fuel vapor recovery. It should eventually lead down to your LDP (I can't say if the path for the Avenger is different than the path for the Eclipse). Its not going to cause a problem if its just blocked off.


MB

 

[95420at]

i would change out the plugs with the factory mitsubishi ngk plugs and and try changing the plug wires if that doesnt fix the problem try and replace the coil with an msd coil i was having the same issues with my eclipse in the winter and i changed out the plugs and bought the 8.5mm plug wires and put on a msd blaster coil problem solved