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New Engine: can i use Mobile1 synthetic to start it out with or...

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95EclipseGST

20+ Year Contributor
406
1
Mar 1, 2002
Kansas City, Missouri
I am putting together a new 6 bolt engine and was wondering if i can start out with Mobile1 Synthetic, or should i start out with Valvoline 10/30. I thought i read of someone putting normal oil in for the first 3,000 miles. Also before firing up the engine for the first time, and in teh process of putting my heads back on, is there anything i need to do as far as oil priming spots to take care of, or just pour the oil in and crank it up. Thanks
 
I know guys that have done races on mobil 1 that ran out of oil before the last lap, they had 0 oil pressure the entire last lap. He pushed it anyways because it was time for a rebuild, and when we took that engine apart there was barely any noticeable damage at all. This has happened to 2 guys i know. Mobil 1 ftw.

Im not bashin royal purple, its just for money sake im always gonna use mobil 1.
 
I know guys that have done races on mobil 1 that ran out of oil before the last lap, they had 0 oil pressure the entire last lap. He pushed it anyways because it was time for a rebuild, and when we took that engine apart there was barely any noticeable damage at all. This has happened to 2 guys i know. Mobil 1 ftw.

Im not bashin royal purple, its just for money sake im always gonna use mobil 1.

It's the same price.
 
Well that is where you and I will agree to disagree, because I don't use something just because it doesn't fail, I use something because it provides better results. Efficiency is the difference between the 12 second 16G car and the 11.2 second 16G car.
I didn't agree to do anything, I'm simply stating what I use and what works best in my engines.

Think of Mobil 1 Synthetics like NGK Spark Plugs. Sure there have been triumphant discoveries and high-buck additions to the ignition world recently, but NGK plugs are arguably the best choice for a boosted application and hands-down the most-used spark plug among DSMers. Why? Because they are trusted and proven.

Show me an instance where a specific motor oil shaved 8/10ths off an E.T. and I will buy a 55-gallon drum of their product TOMORROW and endorse it so heavily that I'll write their branding across my forehead in Sharpie. That company deserves recognition, and I'll gladly give it to them for their achievements.

Until then, Mobil 1 is what I'll be dumping into my engines after they're properly broken in.
 
Then continue to use a scientifically proven inferior oil. It's YOUR engine, but Mobil 1 will never see the light of day in my fully built 2.4L block.

Here is a real world test, not some silly made-up tests like NOLIAK and Four Ball. Straight and to the point: http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf

AMSOIL is missing from this test, it is my belief that AMSOIL would probably perform the same as RP, or better.
 
As for now its looking like i'm going with Mobile 1 or Royal Purple w/ royal purple break in oil. Does Royal Purple make oil filters? Also, can Mobile 1 synthetic be purchased at any Auto Zone or Advance Auto parts, or would i have to order it online just like i would have to with Royal Purple? I was using junk fram oil filters before and now im looking to use an extremely good filter with this engine. Thanks again for the replies.
 
I normally look for Mobil 1 to go on sale a WalMart. A few weeks back I stocked up when the 5-quart containers were on sale for $22. You're not going to find a quality full-synthetic racing oil anywhere else for $4.40/qt.

Standard-grade Fram filters are indeed horrible. Cut the filter apart and find that the ends of the filter casing are cardboard. I've been running Wix filters lately which are excellent for the price.
 
Wait a minute guys...... wasn't this thread suppose to be about us helping this guy find out what is the right type of oil to use to break in a new engine??? or was it to compare what is the best synthetic oil brand :confused: Im confused LOL.
 
Think with yalls dipstick, the difference between oils is so miniscule that all oils are the same, period. I use free toyota oil(available at my dealership) in my 420a and i noticed nothing from when i changed from the quaker state Q horsepower, and i know for a fact that if i changed to another oil(mobile 1 or royal purple) i would never tell a difference.
 
On the subject of Mobil 1 , it is proven. I have been in discussion in the past on this subject on other forums. It is the consencus to use a standard oil to break in the engine. That is because most people can't break it in properly on synthetic. An oil with zinc-zddp is beneficial for the valvetrain on breakin. It is almost impossible to find an oil with zinc today. There are lots to be found if you look. A flat tappet engine (we don't worry) will probably wreck a cam with big springs pushing on it and regular autozone oil lubing it, pick a brand. The manufactures that fill with synthetic will seat the rings before the car/motorcycle leaves the plant. It is not getting enough cyl. pressure/heat to expand the rings that can lead to glazing . A 10 min. program on synthetic is what breaks in a Ducati for example. I have used Mobil 1 for close to 25 years. Won 2 reg. championships with a Ralt/Cosworth on Mobil 1. My hotrod V/8 has had no wear on the bronze roller cam gear for the dizzy in 8yrs. with Mobil 1. Has an h/p oil pump torquin' on it too. That is good in hot rod circles. Peace... Tres...
 
Ive always used Rotella T for new engines, its thick enough to catch any shavings and its friction modifiers are designed to fuse with iron blocks, but i get Rotella for free so i run it in everything but my bike ( it gets mobile 1 synthetic)
 
I'm surprised no-one advised him to prime the motor???

Pull the fuel pump relay and unhook the coil wire, and crank it for 3 10 second internals (so as not to overheat the starter).

Make sure you're getting oil pressure in the gauge, THEN start it up.
 
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