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XxTAZxX

Probationary Member
10
0
Mar 21, 2014
El Paso, Texas
Hey guys I just got a 1g eagle talon. Did a complete New head all new gaskets. Then went to go drive it and clutch was slipping horribly. Turns out clutch was full of dirt and other unknown particles. Cleaned it and slapped it back in. Clutch had stopped slipping but the tcase or drive shaft isn't in the car, is it fine to drive the car without the drive shaft and only the tcase or do I need both? Please help I'm completely new to DSM motors!!
 
Yes it's the AWD. I have the tcase but no drive shaft for it. I have have drove the car for about 50 miles or so trying to figure things out not knowing anything out much at all about these cars. Will driving 50 miles hurt the viscous coupling?
 
So from what I'm reading both the tcase and drive shaft need to be on the car to drive it. Unless I weld my center diff. :(
 
Thanks hotrodssnova. Will do. Still searching for a drive shaft. There aren't many places here I could find a good used one out one at all. Might have to wait to get $$$ fit a new one.
 
Ask Stevie at miller import parts. He may have one. You could also post locally in the regional section at the top of the page if someone local has one or can help you out.

Don't drive it without the DS. It will cook the viscus coupler. Basically it will act the same as having different size tires on each side of a differential. automotive NO-NO 101. One side will be spinning faster than the other and the diff will be trying to transfer power to the wheels that aren't "slipping" even though there is no slipping which will overwork the diff. The only difference is instead of side to side in a differential it will be front to back with the VC.

A+ on asking before you cause problems. +1 on changing Tcase oil. Also when you do get your drive shaft in make sure your tire circumference are close to matching. Here's a nice little explanation. http://www.souzastireservice.com/tires-101/tire-matching-awd-4wd.aspx
I personally go with 1/8" circumference but closer is better. My quick check is tread depth within 1/32" with all tires being the same air pressure, brand, model, and size just for eyeballing it when they are on the car. If I have to replace one then I take them off and measure. A pain but not as big of a pain or as expensive as yanking drive train stuff out to replace.
 
Might want to change the transmission oil also. That vc probably got real toasty! I use the red line mt 90 in my 1 g 5 speed. I would personally stay away from the synchro shift fluid. All the top builder us the mt90 from red line.
When you go to add gear lube to the tc, do that while the drive shaft is installed. Otherwise, you won't get the correct amount in. I think my trans took 3 quarts. ..about 45.00 worth from the speed shop here in Houston.
 
+1 on the redline. I went with what john shepherd recommended in my new tranny, tcase, and dif. That was enough say so for me.
I put royal purple in my old tranny and it didn't like it. Shifting was notchy. It actually functioned better with the old worn out oil before I changed it. Sad. Drained the RP out and put redline in it and acted like it's supposed to.
 
Hey guys I have read and read forums all day trying to find out if my center diff is already welded or not. Can't find anything. Do I need to drop the whole tranny to check this out how do I go upon checking this? As you guys know I drove the car between 50-90 miles (wasn't running it vary easy). Do in this case if it wasn't welded I would have torn things apart correct?

Non related question: is a 91 dodge stealth v6 twin turbo AWD considered a D SM?
 
I've seen used one piece aluminum d/s for sale on here. Nice upgrade and its trick, make sure you replace your t case drive shaft yolk and plug, it's a recall part cause they leak and lock up all 4 tires at the worst moment of course, highway . It's been the cause of some fatalities due to t case running dry and locking up all four tires. Just sayin check everything , even it doesn't seem related.
 
Hey guys I have read and read forums all day trying to find out if my center diff is already welded or not. Can't find anything. Do I need to drop the whole tranny to check this out how do I go upon checking this? As you guys know I drove the car between 50-90 miles (wasn't running it vary easy). Do in this case if it wasn't welded I would have torn things apart correct?

Non related question: is a 91 dodge stealth v6 twin turbo AWD considered a D SM?
You could ask the previous owner. Also, does the transmission have any sealant squished out between the case joints? I know my original transmission had Grey sealant from the factory. If your sealant is a different color, or there's a lot, chances are it's been opened at some time for repairs or upgrades.
 
I did up just the end case to replace a seal on the center shaft in the tranny. But didn't pay any attention to if the other casings had student sealant or not. Also it's impossible to get sold off the original owner
 
One thing I do know is that he used to rave it allot. He put about $25,000 into the car by the recites I have seen. But can't find anything on a welded center diff
 
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