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heavymetal101

10+ Year Contributor
52
0
Mar 22, 2011
Colorado Spring, Colorado
Hey im new, i just traded my 98 VTR 1000 sportbike for a 95 Talon TSi AWD. I have had a 97 eclipse rs 420a turbo before but the computer went out. But anywyas


I bought this car for a guy i work with, he says he was driving from ND to CO, when the car overheated. He saw white smoke, and the car shut off, he says he had a hole in the radiator. So with my knowledge which is limited i figure the head gasket is blown. So first i did a compression test. Cylinder 1 is getting aleast 30psi, while the other 3 have none. I called a few shops and they they just told me to go and buy a new engine because of fractores in the block and stuff(really i think this guy just wanted me to buy the motor he had sitting in his garage) Well i ordered this rebuild kit offline that comes with new pistons, rings, oil pump, water pump, you name it, it has it. I guess my main question is, Should i just replace head gasket first, and see if she starts? or should i just rebuild the motor and go from there?

If you think i should just rebuild the motor can anyone give me like a guide, or steps to help me? i bought a hanes manual so i have the torqe specs and such. Any help is awsome, if you like my email is [email protected], you can shoot me a pm or email with the details. Or if a member lives here in the springs and you can help thats great to. Like i said guys i am new to the DSM world. I humble my self to your guys vast knowledge. Thanks for your time.

I wanted to add a little more information to this,

1. it doesnt not start
2.after lookin at the manual it is cylinder 4 that has compression
3.this saturday i will be taking off the oil pan to see if the bearings are shot or burnt.
4.i already have a new cylinder head i will use cost 250(that way i dont have to worry about bent valves)
5.engine is cranking, piston are moving.
6.i took off the radiator cap and it smelt inside the housing, and i can smell gas
7.i checked the oil and the oil cap, no milky color, or mily shake in the oil pan.


If you guys require any more information let me know
 
Last edited:
The Haynes manual tells you how to rebuild it. If you can't get at least that much figured out you should probably not have bought a non-working car. If you can't search the forums and interwebs and video hosting sites for how-tos, you should probably not have bought that car.

If you can't figure out that 30 PSI isn't compression, it's completely and total lack of compression so far below the service limit it may as well be vacuum, you should probably read and search more.
 
The Haynes manual tells you how to rebuild it. If you can't get at least that much figured out you should probably not have bought a non-working car. If you can't search the forums and interwebs and video hosting sites for how-tos, you should probably not have bought that car.

If you can't figure out that 30 PSI isn't compression, it's completely and total lack of compression so far below the service limit it may as well be vacuum, you should probably read and search more.

Well I'm sorry that I was just making for help man. I thought forums is where u go to learn. I have experience building v8s, but not an import engine. So I figures I ask for tips.
 
It may be a slipped timing belt, bent valves and zero compression. White smoke would be a great indicator of a head gasket but the odds of four cylinders at once is rare.

My advice is to rebuild. During the teardown you can inspect the block easy enough to see damage. You already have a head and the NA blocks are the same as the turbo (the crank, rods and head make the difference) they are every where and cheap. If your block needs to me honed your new rebuild kit will be too small.

Good luck and have fun, it's worth it.
 
Take the Haynes back and get a Chilton. I have a Haynes and it is limited knowledge, poor pics, and has typos. If you tear it down to change the head gasket its not that much more trouble to completely rebuild it. Just make sure to have the head pressure tested and decked and have the blocked honed, vatted, and decked.
 
I wouldn't waste my time with installing a head gasket. Sure sounds like the engine needs a full rebuild. Get to work! LOL

As far as tips are concerned; Follow the haynes manual, take the information in the manual with a grain of salt. You mentioned that you have knowledge of V8s. The engine principles are the same (ie: crank, pistons, rings, valves etc...)

Good luck with your build! :hellyeah:
 
I wouldn't waste my time with installing a head gasket. Sure sounds like the engine needs a full rebuild. Get to work! LOL

As far as tips are concerned; Follow the haynes manual, take the information in the manual with a grain of salt. You mentioned that you have knowledge of V8s. The engine principles are the same (ie: crank, pistons, rings, valves etc...)

Good luck with your build! :hellyeah:

I kinda figured its all the same principles, but you never know there maybe tricks or ways to ease the process. I was planning on following the manual, but is kind of all over the place with how to tear down the engine. I basicly bought it for the torqe specs, and information such as that.

Thank you guys so far for your input.
 
I would remove the timing belt, take out the cams, and shoot some compressed air into the cylinders first. If you can hear or feel air coming out of the intake or exhaust you have bent valves. If it's coming out of the collant overflow, then it's a headgasket most likely. If there's no air coming out of the oil fill cap then that would tell me that the rings and pistons are ok. If you can hear air coming out of the exhaust or intake I would pull head, look over the bores in the cylinders and check out the pistons. If it all looks ok, then pull the pan and see if there's any shavings in the pan. If not and the end play is within spec on the crank I'd leave the bottom end alone. Maybe pour enough oil in each cylinder to cover the top of the piston plus maybe 1/4" and see how long it takes to drain out. If it takes a long time, the rings should be ok. Then take the new head that you know is good, put it on as long as the block and head surfaces are flat, replace all the timing components and go from there. And get new head bolts or some ARP studs. The 7 bolt head bolts are a torque to yield bolt if I remember correctly.

"I have experience building v8s, but not an import engine. "

Also, I'm pretty sure these engines were built in Illinois... I know the cars were. :D
 
You have a great base with the TSI AWD, here in the market place guys are sellind 6 bolt short blocks all the time. Do yourself a favor and get one of those, upgrade the pistons and rods, and bolt on everything from your current engine and she'll be running before you know it. I am also doing the same thing with my build.
 
I would remove the timing belt, take out the cams, and shoot some compressed air into the cylinders first. If you can hear or feel air coming out of the intake or exhaust you have bent valves. If it's coming out of the collant overflow, then it's a headgasket most likely. If there's no air coming out of the oil fill cap then that would tell me that the rings and pistons are ok. If you can hear air coming out of the exhaust or intake I would pull head, look over the bores in the cylinders and check out the pistons. If it all looks ok, then pull the pan and see if there's any shavings in the pan. If not and the end play is within spec on the crank I'd leave the bottom end alone. Maybe pour enough oil in each cylinder to cover the top of the piston plus maybe 1/4" and see how long it takes to drain out. If it takes a long time, the rings should be ok. Then take the new head that you know is good, put it on as long as the block and head surfaces are flat, replace all the timing components and go from there. And get new head bolts or some ARP studs. The 7 bolt head bolts are a torque to yield bolt if I remember correctly.

"I have experience building v8s, but not an import engine. "

Also, I'm pretty sure these engines were built in Illinois... I know the cars were. :D

See i didnt know the engine was built in america. I thought since the engine was a mitsubishi, that it was import. Thanks for the advice.
 
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