New DSM, oil thin like water.

[ericemery]

Hi guys, I picked up a 98 GST yesterday, and am setting off doing the usual, general maintenance. Changed the plugs. they were worn, but looked pretty good. Compression on the car, prior to me purchasing it was as follows.
Cyl 1 137, cyl 2 140, cyl 3 140, cyl 4 149-150 (as tested by me, with my tools.)

It has a gates racing timing belt on it, and it looks pretty new. The previous owner says its around a 1000 miles old.

My question is, have you ever seen oil come out during a change, that was as thin as water? This oil was BLACK and more thin than I have ever seen. This has me worried that coolant is getting in the oil. I am leaving the pan sitting out over night to see what separates.

The previous owner had the oil changes done at a dealership, and I am changing the oil about 1500 miles before the sticker says its due. I don't know if that helps, but I figured it couldn't hurt.


(I should say, that this isn't the car in my profile. this is a clone that I intend to be my daily driver.)

 

[dsmpat95]

May be running a synthetic oil. If coolant was in your oil it may look milky.

 

[JusMX141]

Run some 15W40 diesel oil in it for a while and change the oil at 1500 mile intervals for 10k or so. That should clean things up nicely.

The dealer is probably using 5W30 which is too thin for our cars. However, if the oil smells like gasoline, you may want to have the injectors cleaned and tested as you may have one that is not sealing properly.

 

[ericemery]

I have it sitting out in the garage right now. it didnt look milky, I just haven't ever seen oil run like this.

I run royal purple in my other eclipse, and it usually runs like any other car I have ever changed oil on.

I appreciate the fast response. This might be one of those knee jerk reactions. The car came from a good home and is in great shape. Its real hard to find a stock Eclipse that hasnt been molested.

 

[JusMX141]

Honestly, compression around 140 is a little low for a 2G...I wouldn't be surprised if you have some valve seals leaking or something that is effecting the way the exhaust valves seal. There's probably nothing wrong with the low end at all, but today's shitty gasolines like to pit the sealing surfaces of the exhaust valves in a negative manner.

 

[ericemery]

I will probably do a leak down test tomorrow. The mosquitoes forced me into the house tonight, or I would have done it.

 

[dsmpat95]

Did you do that compression test on a cold engine.

 

[ericemery]

No. We took it for a little test drive first. it was at normal operating temp.

 

[99gst_racer]

6-bolt or 7-bolt?


You'd know it if you had coolant in the oil. It separates in the pan, and the oil sits on top of the coolant. So, as soon as you pull the drain plug, you'll see straight green for a couple seconds before you start to see oil.

 

[ericemery]

7 bolt. its basically stock. only mod is a 14b turbo on wastegate boost.

 

[ed1380]

+1 on 15-40 diesel oil. even the auto store brand oil might be good enough, but i personally use delo or rotella

 

[99gst_racer]

Service limit on a 2G 7-bolt is 133 PSI, so you're pretty much in need of a rebuild of some extent. If you can, do a leakdown test to determine exactly where cylinder pressure is leaking.

 

[ericemery]

Thanks. I will give it a shot, depending on what my leak down test shows.

Is there any filter you guys recommend? I usually run a Wix or napa gold.

 

[99gst_racer]

Is there any filter you guys recommend? I usually run a Wix or napa gold.

OEM. They're common to find in stock, only cost about $5, and they have an internal anti-drainback valve just like the $15 oil filters.


My bet is worn out rings.

 

[ericemery]

Think a dodge dealer would have one? the closest mitsu dealer to me is about 2 hours away. That would be a pretty expensive filter. haha

I run K&N filters on my GST project.

 

[dalesmitsu]

Thanks. I will give it a shot, depending on what my leak down test shows.

Is there any filter you guys recommend? I usually run a Wix or napa gold.

I always used the oem Mopar brand from walmart. Its cheaper than the k/n filters, but I have the chrysler nt engine. K/n is a good one to use for both nt and turbo.

You should get your oil from walmart, prices are cheaper but I would get the k/n from parts store walmart dont carry K/n. I'd be surprised if they did.

 

[99gst_racer]

I'm not sure if a Dode dealership would have them or not. If I were you, I'd call them with the part number to see if it's something they can work with.

 

[ericemery]

I really appreciate it guys. If I run into any issues with the leakdown test tomorrow, I will post up results.


Thanks again.

 

[1997_GSX]

Purolator PureONE also have anti drainback valves, I ran OEM and got tired of having to order them all the time...

I do like how the K&N have the nut that has the safety wire holes so you can wire it to keep it from loosening. I might start and buy them since I just got a whole 1lb roll of SS Aircraft lock wire.

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[my dreamt dsm]

Service limit on a 2G 7-bolt is 133 PSI, so you're pretty much in need of a rebuild of some extent. If you can, do a leakdown test to determine exactly where cylinder pressure is leaking.

I was gonna say that but since they all look low you could be in need of a rebuild. I remember reading that they can't be 15 or 20% apart from each other. But don't quote me on that.

 

[ReYnd]

WIX/Napa Gold or Purolator for the filter. They've all got the anti-drainback valve. Go OEM if you want though, nothing wrong with that. All about the same price. I'll never run a Fram or K&N oil filter though.

The oil's weight is probably really low, might have been changed to 5W-30 for the winter. I always run full synthetic 10W-30 (of the Pennzoil variety) with no issue on a stock engine. Don't worry about coolant in your oil, it would look like chocolate milk if that were the case.

With that compression, it looks like your valve seals are in need of some attention. Do you get a puff or two of smoke at start up? If it's a more constant smoking, piston rings would be my next suspect. Which isn't out of the question if the engine is in need of a rebuild, or if it has been fairly recently rebuilt. Rings usually need a few hundred miles to start sealing at their best.

Do your leak down test and let us know what you learn!

 

[ericemery]

Well, I need to ask this question before I do the leak down test.

Does the engine need to be at normal operating temp? If so, I wont be able to do the leak down test until after work. (needs oil in it to run. haha)

 

[knochgoon24]

When you did the compression test, did you disable the injectors (pick your method) and floor the gas while you got your readings?

I've seen low readings from people not flooring the gas pedal during them.
I've also seen people get higher readings by filling the cylinders with gas from not disabling the injectors.

 

[ericemery]

When you did the compression test, did you disable the injectors (pick your method) and floor the gas while you got your readings?

I've seen low readings from people not flooring the gas pedal during them.
I've also seen people get higher readings by filling the cylinders with gas from not disabling the injectors.

I didnt floor it. I guess I havent ever done that before on any of my other vehicles. I will re-do the compression test tomorrow.
as for killing the engine/injectors, I pulled the 20 amp engine fuse.


The leak down test went surprisingly well. all the cylinders hold 60 psi (the most I can get out of my crappy compressor.)

I also did a boost leak test, since I had the compressor out. I have a lot of air coming out of the intake manifold gasket. it also looks like a little coolant in that area. Can coolant work its way out through an intake gasket? (my guess is no... )