The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

New cooling setup, spal fans

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Corey I've heard about that too. The thing that I wonder about is the coolant temps are necessarily going to correspond with oil temps. In my case, I cannot even touch my valve cover after idling for about 20 minutes.

As far as the tune, it has changed a little which needs corrected but using the coolant offset puts it somewhat in line.
 
I guess its tough to say what, if anything, that 140* t-stat changes besides the cars coolant temps. It just seems that significantly lower coolant temps (170* vise 200*) would affect CC temps, thus causing incomplete fuel burn and possibly detonation.

I'd almost bet that if you've still got coolant running through your OFH it would drastically lower oil temps as well, just theory though. :idontknow:

:dsm:
 
It's likely for sure but how much would it be changing by. I don't have an oil temp gauge so I'm out of the running there.
 
Good read. I'm not sure on DSM's but I would assume this would be the same on any vehicle but on my truck the oil is definitely hotter than the water. I'd say it's around a 15* difference.

I'm hoping the controller I ordered will basically let me set my coolant temp and it just does the work for me.
 
So I got my FMIC finished and the fans just came in but too late to start installing.

I was also thinking about the "oil needing to be so hot in order to evaporate the water," and the more I think about it, it really doesnt make sense. The oil in my SRT-10 never really gets to 212* which would be necessary to boil plain water so....

Anyway here are some pictures :D
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Looks good. Referring to your oil heating up to 212* to boil the h2o out of it, the 2g OFH circulates the coolant through it to keep oil temps around 200*-210* assuming stock coolant system.

I'm not sure how much of that article I posted holds true, it was just some food for thought on the matter.

:dsm:
 
Looks good. Referring to your oil heating up to 212* to boil the h2o out of it, the 2g OFH circulates the coolant through it to keep oil temps around 200*-210* assuming stock coolant system.

I'm not sure how much of that article I posted holds true, it was just some food for thought on the matter.

:dsm:

I'm wondering if I should stick with 10w 30 since I think ill be running cooler temps. I was going to switch to 20w 50 but maybe that'll be too think if I keep my temps around 185ish
 
I'm wondering if I should stick with 10w 30 since I think ill be running cooler temps. I was going to switch to 20w 50 but maybe that'll be too think if I keep my temps around 185ish


You want pretty much as heavy oil as you can get away with for bearing protection..but I'd probably let oil pressure help you make your decision though ... .. I personally found 10W40 or 15w40 to be a happy medium in my car w/ a ported OFH large external Air-Oil cooler, No Oil squirters in the block clearances on the loose side,and temps ~180 ... but every car is different..

... Just be sure to run a GOOD Quality oil like Royal Purple XPR(not regular royal purple you get at autozone/walmart) , Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs, AMSoil to name a few... I think Valvoline has a new racing oil thats pretty good too VR1 or something but I think theres 2 versions of it so be careful.
 
You want pretty much as heavy oil as you can get away with for bearing protection..but I'd probably let oil pressure help you make your decision though ... .. I personally found 10W40 or 15w40 to be a happy medium in my car w/ a ported OFH large external Air-Oil cooler, No Oil squirters in the block clearances on the loose side,and temps ~180 ... but every car is different..

... Just be sure to run a GOOD Quality oil like Royal Purple XPR(not regular royal purple you get at autozone/walmart) , Brad Penn Racing oil, Joe Gibbs, AMSoil to name a few... I think Valvoline has a new racing oil thats pretty good too VR1 or something but I think theres 2 versions of it so be careful.

I was going to order royal purple xpr but for almost $18/quart I want to give Bran Penn a try. I remember you saying you could get it locally, where was that? I'm thinking maybe an oil temp gauge might be in order and I'll probable go with a 15W 40 to start of with and see how my oil pressure sits. Right now I sit about 3/4 and holds nice and steady. Also, do you think an external oil cooler is worth it?
 
I know dacowgod will post back but in the mean time, here is what brad penn has listed on their website. Brad Penn ® Locator

I found that a local autoshop carried the oil and it is only $52 a case last time I bought it 20w 50 and the SAE30 brake in oil was $56. This is much cheaper than a speed shop so hope you find some close and at a good price. Good luck.
 
My best friend and VERY knowledgeable DSM buddy has some backwoods (he's from N. Carolina LOL) tricks that always seem to be better than anything you read on the forums. He's been running Shell Rotella for years because of the Zinc content in it, I always talked shit about it too, then Wes posted this ---> Shell Rotella UOA 5w-40

I ran the 5w-40 and it was too thin IMO, so I made the move to 15w-40 and have a sample of it going to Black Stone right now to get my own UOA done.

:dsm:
 
My best friend and VERY knowledgeable DSM buddy has some backwoods (he's from N. Carolina LOL) tricks that always seem to be better than anything you read on the forums. He's been running Shell Rotella for years because of the Zinc content in it, I always talked shit about it too, then Wes posted this ---> Shell Rotella UOA 5w-40

I ran the 5w-40 and it was too thin IMO, so I made the move to 15w-40 and have a sample of it going to Black Stone right now to get my own UOA done.

:dsm:

Seeing as how readily available the shell is, I might just go ahead and try it. Heck I won't ever run oil more than 1500 miles so...
 
I ran Brad Penn oil for a while, but got sick of having to order it from Summit every time I needed to change it. I've been running regular old Valvoline VR1 20/50 conventional for some time now. It was pretty high up on the list when FP did their oil comparison if I remember right, that and the low price doesn't hurt either. :D
 
How's the new cooling setup treating you?

The 143* thermostat from STM was the wrong one, looks like it was just packaged wrong so I'll need another one. I did put the stock 180* back in and will have the car running by tomorrow and I'll get you all some data :thumb:

I ran Brad Penn oil for a while, but got sick of having to order it from Summit every time I needed to change it. I've been running regular old Valvoline VR1 20/50 conventional for some time now. It was pretty high up on the list when FP did their oil comparison if I remember right, that and the low price doesn't hurt either. :D

I'm thinking if I can't find some Brad Penn locally I'll go that route. Just don't want to be hunting for oil all the time.
 
Woops..I totally fell off the bandwagon on this thread...


Yeah I ran XPR all the way up until I moved to morgantown... I don't really care how expensive it is..I didn't run enough miles on it for it to be too harmful to the pocket book...but since I cant get it around here easily I just swapped to Penn Grade.... I drive up to Pittsburgh to get it though I paid less than 50 bucks for 12 quarts and 2 WIX filters though .. Just stock it on the shelf and get more when you run low... Even if you change the oil every 500 miles on that car that will be what .. 3 times a year at best ;-)
 
Woops..I totally fell off the bandwagon on this thread...


Yeah I ran XPR all the way up until I moved to morgantown... I don't really care how expensive it is..I didn't run enough miles on it for it to be too harmful to the pocket book...but since I cant get it around here easily I just swapped to Penn Grade.... I drive up to Pittsburgh to get it though I paid less than 50 bucks for 12 quarts and 2 WIX filters though .. Just stock it on the shelf and get more when you run low... Even if you change the oil every 500 miles on that car that will be what .. 3 times a year at best ;-)

Is this what you buy off Justin? If so does would he sell a case to me or is it a hookup kinda deal?
 
Is this what you buy off Justin? If so does would he sell a case to me or is it a hookup kinda deal?



They stock it at the store he works at... I dont think its a "hook-up" deal but i'm not certain ...you could just drop him a PM or I can grab you a case next time I see him.....or just toss him the $$ and have him bring it to the shootout..which will likely be the next time I see him in anyways..
 
Car should not run below temperatures of 176 for a long period of time, so getting that low of a thermostat is pointless. Tried it before, Fuel trims are calculated above those temps.
 
So I got everything installed and decided to fire her up and see what happened. With the A/C on and still have 180* thermostat she will not go about 186. I have the fans set to turn on low at 180* and high at 205*. She holds between 180 and 186* rock solid and my IAT's at idle are just a few degrees about outside temp so I'd consider this a huge success. I'll actually take her for a spin tomorrow and rip on her and see what she does, but I don't think I'll get her to warm up. I can actually put the little manual that came with the kit on my FMIC and you actually have to peal it off :thumb::hellyeah:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


PS- Don't get the colored header wrap ... :(
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Do you have a pic of how the fans are mounted to the radiator? Do you have a shroud? I just ordered one of the big ass high performance spal fans with one of those S blade slim ones for the a/c side along with a PWR radiator to try and get my heat issues ironed out.

Mostly curious to see how thick they look. Those fans are rated really high for slim fans as well. I think even higher then the giant high performance one I just ordered.
 
Do you have a pic of how the fans are mounted to the radiator? Do you have a shroud? I just ordered one of the big ass high performance spal fans with one of those S blade slim ones for the a/c side along with a PWR radiator to try and get my heat issues ironed out.

Mostly curious to see how thick they look. Those fans are rated really high for slim fans as well. I think even higher then the giant high performance one I just ordered.

I'll get some for you after work. I have the high performance 13" curved blade fan on the passanger side because it fits, and the other 13" fan on the drivers side. So far the fans have not even went to high speed and they are keeping things nice and cool. I did rotate the fans 90* to have them fit perfectly and there is minimal surface area of the radiator that is not covered.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top