new build opinions

[gsx4357]

hey guys. i kind of ran into some bad luck/good luck. i blew up an exhaust valve and a spark plug on my head and ripped the motor out to do a full rebuild. now i was wanting some opinions on how i should go about this. i was going to bore it out and put new pistons and rods and valves and springs. i was wondering if i should get higher compressions or lower compression pistons. some people say i should try to make as much power with the engine and less with the turbo and others say lower compressions to add more boost. other than that i was wondering where would be the best place to buy all of this, like the cheapest place that sell quality products. thanks for any input

 

[BogusSVO]

First a few questions need to be awnsered.

What is your goal?

What is your budget?

What will be the end use of the car? AutoX? Dyno Queen? DD? Drag?

Is your mod list up to date in your profile?

 

[gsx4357]

i just want a fast street/drag car that is going to run on pump gas. as far as budget i need to keep it as cheap as possible without letting go of quality products. maybe around 2-3 grand. i want to do all the internals so i dont have to rip into the motor again for a long time. and ill update my profile right now because it has changed a bit. i was just thinking maybe it will be cheaper to buy a stroker kit instead of everything individually.

its updated

also i do have a 6 bolt block and head here just i dont have any parts for the block...the head i do but its completely disassembled and not sure how good the parts are

 

[BogusSVO]

2-3 grand will go quick just on the engine build with all good internals and a decent head rebuild.

Define fast street/drag car? 11? 10? 9?


Rods/pistons will be about $700-800 for a 2.0
Cams another $400-600 depending on brand and grind
Valve springs or kit $85 to $450
Crank bearings $100 + depends on brand and grade
Timing belt kit about $250? 300?
BSE, gaskets, RTV, Oil, sealents and other small parts $300 +

Thats about 2k or more, and not counting machine work
Depending on how much or how little and prices in your area, but that can go $1000 or more for every thing.
Block work
Head work
Crank work
Balancing

 

[gsx4357]

should i go higher compression or lower? id like to get as fast as i can go on pump gas and im probably not going to do the cams just yet. i saw some cheaper prices for valves and springs from jackson. are they any good?

 

[BogusSVO]

Springs and valves.. the prices ate all over the place, depends if you want BC1100 springs for about $85 or Kiggley beehive for about $425.

You said you are going to hold off on cams for now... but do you plan to upgrade cams later? if so, you should get the springs for those cams.

The prices I have listed is just a ball bark so you can get an idea of what will be spent.

Higher compressin will help with off boost driving, lower compressinon will help with thuning to a point.

The common thing to do would be build the 6 bolt bottom end, and mod the 2g head and fit it to the 6bolt bottom.

 

[My1GLaser]

I went with 9:1 CR when I did my build and after much deliberation. I personally wouldn't go higher on pump gas. Do you have E-85 in your area?

I was getting away with 18-19* of timing on 28ish psi on pump gas. This was on an 18g flowing about 40-42lb/min. A little larger turbo putting out that airflow would have seen lower IATs.

I have done a significant amount of cooling mods to keep my coolant temps around 170-175*. Anywhere near the stock ~210* will make it hard to run higher boost or timing on pump gas. Ducting from your FMIC to radiator makes a big difference.

I do run non-projected plugs which helped my get away with 2-3* more timing.

Is your custom intake a CAI?

The next few things are more related to the research I did trying to make my motor more knock resistant as I was deciding what CR to go with. I didn't wanna go to high and have a knock happy motor, or not go high enough and be disappointed that I didn't get more aggressive.

The first thing is quench pad. Basically its the distance from the top of the piston at TDC to the bottom of the head and it causes a violent swirling of the air/fuel mixture and helps to reduce hot spots. You don't want your pistons to be .010" down in the bore then throw a .060" MLS HG on there for a .070 quench area. .035" is the closest you want to be due to rod stretch at high rpms. (am I even close here Bogus?) My quench pad ended up being .040-045" when my motor was built. We have dished pistons so there isn't as much benefit as flat top/dome pistons, but every bit helps IMO.

I run HKS 272s and the overlap actually slightly reduces the dynamic CR of the motor making it easier to run higher CR pistons.

Polished CC, no sharp edges in the CC, basically good machine work makes a difference too.

 

[gsx4357]

yes i am planning on getting cams later...either the 264/272 or straight 272/272...i not worried about using the 6 bolt bottom end...the 7 bolt has done extremely good and would rather keep that...i do have e-85 but not planning on doing the conversion because i dont know where its at which isnt a big deal. but also because i live far from it and want to go there every time i need gas...i have a ETS street intercooler and short route piping and i have done some mods for cooling...i put holes in the front bumper which helped more than noticeably and i put a 170 thermostat. i was thinking a 2.3 stroker kit with valves and springs and some machining to the block and head. what do you guys think?