Nervous about noise from tranny

[tarheels23]

So just a few mins ago I got home and pulled my car in the garage and I had the car in neutral (with my foot on the brake) and I pushed in the clutch pedal and when I let it out and got to the friction point I heard almost like the clutch engaging or rubbing on something and my rpms dropped, when I let it out all the way its fine and the same with when it's pushed in all the way, is this clutch drag?

 

[Austingrace24]

Throw out barring is my guess. They are 28 at advanced auto if you have one near you.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Clutch drag sounds weird I would pull the transmission and inspect.

 

[dacowgod]

If RPMs drop when you engage the clutch it could be more serious too.. I.e. Crankwalk..

You should probably check endplay of the crankshaft ...and maybe cut your oil filter open for inspection to see if there's any debris caught in there from bearing failure... Hopefully its not this..but for every 10 times I've seen the clutch cause an RPM drop at least 7-8 of them are due to crankwalk .. :-(

What clutch is in the car? What motor is in the car ? Has the motor or clutch been recently replaced?

 

[tarheels23]

its a 6bolt, when I bought the car supposdely it had 3k miles on the block when I bought it, the car had got a exedy oem clutch and flywheel, its a 4g63 manual turbo. balance shaft were deleted
Recently I had replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder about 2 months ago

is there any way to check to be sure that is the problem? my throw out bearing before I have to tear it all apart

 

[awdtalon4451]

Throw out barring is my guess. They are 28 at advanced auto if you have one near you.

Lol please dont do this^^^ , you'll be back under it replacing it in 6 months or less.:thumbdown: OEM or NAPA throw out bearing ALWAYS!!!!

 

[Alan11]

If RPMs drop when you engage the clutch it could be more serious too.. I.e. Crankwalk..

You should probably check endplay of the crankshaft ...and maybe cut your oil filter open for inspection to see if there's any debris caught in there from bearing failure... Hopefully its not this..but for every 10 times I've seen the clutch cause an RPM drop at least 7-8 of them are due to crankwalk .. :-(

What clutch is in the car? What motor is in the car ? Has the motor or clutch been recently replaced?

Rpms drop when i engage the clutch on my Rx8. And its a Rotary.

Lol please dont do this^^^ , you'll be back under it replacing it in 6 months or less.:thumbdown: OEM or NAPA throw out bearing ALWAYS!!!!

Agreed with only using OEM Throw out bearings.

 

[pauleyman]

Keep in mind mitsu doesn't make bearings. There are several brands that are fine. OEM bearing uses a plastic sleeve. They can be found from several parts stores and are usually the part number for the AWD cars but they fit both fwd and awd.
Your problem could be throwout, fork or something internal. You'll have to look at it to find out.

 

[H@xtGSX]

I had .104" of crankwalk recently, and didn't even notice any rpm drop. (1g CAS in a 2g motor... It let it progress way too far) Anyhow, don't go jumping on the CW train yet, especially with a 6 bolt... Yes, they can walk too (as can ANY motor), but it is much less likely. This lower power, close to stock set up doesn't make me think he's pushing on the thrust bearing too hard.

It could be as simple as trashed motor mounts...

If.you're buying a new throw out bearing, you want NGK.

 

[tarheels23]

I never beat on this car! because I dont trust it and the rpms only drop a little bit at the friction point while the car is in nuetral with my foot on the break, I can just take a video to help people out

 

[DROPthatCLUTCH]

Both my dsms do this. I always thought it was normal. My guess is that your fine.
You mentioned a noise in the title.. What noise?

 

[tarheels23]

here's a video of what my car is doing, not so loud with clutch all the way in, and louder when I hold it at the friction point. I dont know how to embed videos on hereThrow out bearing shot? - YouTube

 

[Austingrace24]

Lol please dont do this^^^ , you'll be back under it replacing it in 6 months or less.:thumbdown: OEM or NAPA throw out bearing ALWAYS!!!!

That was oem price

 

[awdtalon4451]

That was oem price

No its not Mitsubishi OEM is $57 or $64 if i remember correct. When people say OEM they mean mitsu parts. If you buy it at a retail parts store its just OEM specs (supposedly). If and when you do buy parts from a retail store, make sure its Napa

 

[awdtalon4451]

That sounds terrible bro. Drop the tranny ASAP and find out what's going on. Something in there has a story to tell. I wouldn't drive it until you figure this out.

 

[H@xtGSX]

Yup. That sounds like shit. It almost sounds like the flywheel is loose... I would also guess some of the accessory stuff is going by the drag on start. Probably the alternator, as it can provide a pretty high resistance once energized. Something is wiggling around WAY too much... FIRST: Stand in front of the car. Which side is that wobbling noose coming from? If it is the left, then it is *likely* to be in the bell housing, though you could have issues in the gear box that sound similar but tend to be rare unless you are running higher power. If it comes from the right, the bearings in the power steering, water, and air conditioner are what I would suspect first... But that sounds like clutchy stuff.

 

[WES_393]

When people say OEM they mean mitsu parts. If you buy it at a retail parts store its just OEM specs (supposedly).

Yes, people usually mean Mitsu when they say OEM (even though it's technically OE). However, many auto parts stores will slap an OEM label on anything, whether it meets factory spec or not. That's why it's important to research a brand before buying. But you are correct that it's best to use a Mitsubishi TOB, even with aftermarket clutch setups. The quality of the original parts is far superior to anything you can find at a parts store.

And that video does sound like a pretty serious issue with the clutch. Hopefully it's the TOB and not serious as a broken PP finger. Either way the trans will definitely need to be dropped. I highly suggest a new fork, pivot, and clip at the same time as the TOB. Not a bad time to do the clutch either if your still on the stocker.

Great place to find all the clutch parts:

STM: 90-99 DSM | OEM MITSUBISHI PARTS | DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS

*TOB= Throw Out Bearing

 

[awdtalon4451]

STM: 90-99 DSM | OEM MITSUBISHI PARTS | DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS

*TOB= Throw Out Bearing[/QUOTE]

Wes thats an awesome price for Oem TOB. I always went to mitsu for mine. Great find, ill be getting mine from STM in the future

 

[pauleyman]

Does this car have all the tranny bolts in and tight? Especially the rear bolt above the transfer case. I've seen cars missing that bolt and like many DSMs I've seen also missing the flywheel inspection plate. The tranny can move away from the mount with a stiff clutch and rub the transfer case. I only throw that out there as a what if. Sounds more like throw out bearing. Let that go and watch it snap off the sleeve it rides on and you'll really be screwed. Drop the tranny and fix it.

 

[awdtalon4451]

Does this car have all the tranny bolts in and tight? Especially the rear bolt above the transfer case. I've seen cars missing that bolt and like many DSMs I've seen also missing the flywheel inspection plate. The tranny can move away from the mount with a stiff clutch and rub the transfer case. I only throw that out there as a what if. Sounds more like throw out bearing. Let that go and watch it snap off the sleeve it rides on and you'll really be screwed. Drop the tranny and fix it.

Now that you mention it, this is a very good possibility. I had my trans seperate on my fwd lazer and it sounded something similar but it was an all the time noise. Drop it!!! Better to fix it now than have what he^^^ said happen if you let it ride.