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ECMlink Need tuning criticism and knock troubles

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HooKnBooK

10+ Year Contributor
116
0
Mar 23, 2009
St. Louis, Missouri
This morning I decided to drive my car to work today. Every now and then I would get the occasional .4 or .7 knock, but after I filled my tank with E85 I started logging my car. I noticed while cruising I was getting 3.2 knock. Thinking that it was strange...I unplugged the sensor and plugged it back in and it went away. So I decided to do a log and noticed I was doing fine with knock until I let off the gas and it was in vacuum. Here is my log. Advice would be nice. Thanks

BTW: This is 2nd and some of 3rd
 

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Yes.

But I get the code for a malfunction with circuit one knock sensor. No "goop" coming from the sensor
 
I will tomorrow. I'm just going to buy a new one tonight And replace it. Along with the knock sensor I was wanting tune recommendations
 
How did you come up with that SD table? That seems (just by viewing and not reviewing the log) like it would be really far off with how low the values are.

After looking at it, it seems that is the case.

Might want to increase the RPM/TPS values in the ALS/Knock tab to something higher like 2500 RPM and 25-30% TPS.

I'd also recommend lowering your knock CEL value in the Dash tab to 2.


Can you please post an idle log with the car up to temp, a cruise log keeping everything as constant as possible for at least 20-30 seconds, and a 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline?
 
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Ok I messed with the knock settings. I will go out and do a idle log now and do the cruise and pull in an hour or so

Here is a log of my idle.
 

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this might be stating the obvious, but your wbfactor is waayyy off...

EDIT: subscribed. I need to learn how to dial in the ve table for when I make the switch :)
*grabs popcorn and sits back*
 
Before I even look I'm going to guess it is the Throttle. I'll look into it:thumb:
 

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Incorrect - it's making sure your idle is set properly.

Now, please go through the checklist one by one before proceeding. Last time I will hopefully have to mention it before I stop offering help. It's in place for a reason and it's a waste of my time to troubleshoot common issues that we've worked hard to lay out for you.
 
Now, please go through the checklist one by one before proceeding. Last time I will hopefully have to mention it before I stop offering help. It's in place for a reason and it's a waste of my time to troubleshoot common issues that we've worked hard to lay out for you.

Specifically, this:

Please start your post with either verification or numbers (in the case of a compression test for example) for each item, so we can save time and get down to business.

No offense, but proper tuning is all about attention to detail; if you can't apply this to the forum rules and provide the information requested, you are going to have a hard time finding continued help here...or getting a good tune on on your car.
 
Does anyone know a way I can save the demo's to my laptop? (Running Windows XP)
 
Doesn't that still require a internet connection? It would be nice to watch them while I'm in my car. Sorry for the frustration
 
Haha will do. Thanks for the help. I will post back when I get things lined out
 
If you could help me, judging by the fuel trim video. Even on speed density and E85 I want my CombFT to be around 0-1% at idle? Mine is around %25...I don't see how that is possible. Wish their was a video for the same thing on speed density, but I guess I will have to read up on it more.
 
I'm not going to spend much (any) more time on this until you go through the checklist and respond to it as requested, but your WB is not logging properly; it looks like it's switching between two hard values, instead of outputting an analog representation of the AFR. Since you are simulating a front O2 sensor from that signal (which is how fuel trims are adjusted), your CombinedFT and trims are never going to be correct.

Fix your wideband and the other issues mentioned in the checklist, post results or verification for each one, and then we'll move on to looking your logs over and getting your tune dialed in.
 
you are simulating narrowband o2...on a narrowband o2

The signal on his rear O2 input doesn't look like a NB though. It looks like an improperly configured WB signal. A narrowband signal would be between 0 and 1v....his rear O2 voltage is switching around 2.5v.

Probably wouldn't hurt to lock the rear O2 voltage on the ECU inputs tab.
 
The signal on his rear O2 input doesn't look like a NB though. It looks like an improperly configured WB signal. A narrowband signal would be between 0 and 1v....his rear O2 voltage is switching around 2.5v.

Probably wouldn't hurt to lock the rear O2 voltage on the ECU inputs tab.

Ah gotcha. OP it might be worth taking a look at this: v3narrowbandsim [ECMTuning - wiki]

Since he is running a wb in the rear o2, shouldn't he just leave the closed loop work to the front o2 (NB) and ditch the narrowband sim all together?
 
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