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* * Need help with my 2g

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mitsueclipse2g

10+ Year Contributor
71
0
Jun 3, 2008
Wethersfield, Connecticut
Hey guys, just recently did a 6 bolt swap into my 95 talon tsi. The thing is the car is having a few problems while it is started. I am suspecting that there are a few wires in the harness that are burned out and shorting out. What the car is doing is, it is running really rough and crappy, sometimes is will run on cylinders 1 and 4, next thing you know it will fire on 2 and 3 when you start it again. The car has good compression, no boost leaks, or vacuum leaks. We got it to run fine one time, then we shut it off and turned it on later and the symptoms started all over again. We swapped out the ecus, but that didn't change anything, it's also getting good fuel and spark. It's using the black lid cam angle sensor and the timing is dead on. What's you guy's input do you think that it's a bad wiring harness?
 
Yes, the plugs wires were switched around. Just to make sure do you still swap the wires even if you dont use the 2g head?
 
Yes, the plugs wires were switched around. Just to make sure do you still swap the wires even if you dont use the 2g head?

It's not the head, it's the electronics. CAS, ECU...ect...

Also, check the Magnus Tech page on thier website.

Magnus Motorsports

Did you shoot a light on the crank pulley to make sure your base timing is ok? Double check the Power Transistor, Wires, and Coil Pack. You could have some bad wires, or plugs.

Also, sometimes, I know it's happened to me, your wires could still be wrong even if the damn thing looks right, search a few more tech posts on wiring. Since the 1G coil faces up & down, and the motor is across, sometimes it can be screwy looking.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre.../273774-what-spark-plug-firing-order-dsm.html


Do you use DSMLink? What EMS are you using? If it's Link make sure you invert CAS on the options menu.

Are you using a translator or stock MAS?

If the car at least turns over, you could just have bad plugs or wires. If your timing or wires were 180 out or anything like that, it wouldn't fire at all. But if you had 2 out of 4 wires reversed, then it could fire and run like shit.
 
The plugs, coil pack, and wires are good. Im running on the stock ecu, because I dont have link. Im still using the stock maf also. Sometimes it will idle like it has 280 cams. All the grounds were checked and cleaned up.
 
I'm not running afc in the car, but the previous owner I believe was running an afc not to sure, because some of the wires in the harness was cut and covered with blue tape. Every firing order was tried and still the same thing. Are you suppose to turn the cam angle 180* even if you don't link and the timing is correct we checked it multiple times.
 
List for me what you have in the car, then we can go from there, your profile doesn't have anything on it.

Are you pretty much running stock? Injectors, pump, ect..

If you're above stock with no EMS, your car is going to run screwy, period.

Also, check you mechanical timing, again and again just to make sure, that's the only way you can screw this up. Other than that we can go one at a time till we find the culprit.


Plus, the ECU: make sure all those wires are re-soldered. Tape is the ghetto way to go and won't do too you much. Just make sure if you don't know how to solder, you read up on doing it correctly, a cold joint won't hold. If you don't have access to the solder right now, just make sure they're spliced and taped strong for now. That will work to figure out the problem.

You didn't mention anything about the power transistor, switch it out, or test it. Also make sure your MAP sensor is plugged.

Does the car get a CEL? If so get the code, find the issue.

Loosen your CAS, and try adjusting 180 the other way, see what you get. The worse that will happen is the car won't start.

Get on these pages about AFC wiring, and ECU pin outs. That'll show you which wires have been cut and are shitty. You might have a ignition wire loose or frayed.

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page
 
The car is on stock injectors and fuel, the only mods are 16g, 3inch exhaust, and boost controller. The car doesn't throw any check engine lights either.
 
What does the car idle at?

Try backing out the BISS and see if it settles at all.

Also, re-do all the ECU wires, using the pinout diagram I linked you to. Make sure they're sealed and correct.

How do you know your wires are good? Are they bran new, no corrosion on the metal anywhere?

Also, how do you know you didn't fry your coil pack, did you test it?

If the car starts and runs like shit, you go spark/ inginition timing problems.

If your wires have been cut, then they're probably jacked up, check them as well.
 
We tried adjusting the idle, but still idles like it has 280 cams. The wires are brand new and have no metal or corrosion any where. The coil pack isn't fried either, we used another good coil pack to make sure and it's still doing the same thing. Im still thinking there are some wires burned up in the harness and shorting out, because we basically tried everything and rechecked, and its still doing the same thing.
 
Are you getting spark from every wire? Did you check the integrity of the wires? Did you check plugs? Check compression? Check fuel pressure?
 
Get one cylinder that you know fires with a good plug and wire. Take that wire and plug and arc it in every spot on the coil to make sure there is no doubt that it's not a plug/wire/coil problem.
It it runs and idle likes crap, it's most likely ingintion timing. Either the firing order is still wrong, or you have wiring issues in the ECU.

The harness diagram I linked you lays out the ingintion wire signals to the ECU. They're probably black wires. Check that out as well.
 
If you check the compression, you should have close to 180 all the way across. If you don't then it's game over in the mechanical timing part of the 6 bolt swap.

Check it, and see if you have bent valves, I doubt it though, once again like I said before about mechanical timing, bent valves most likely wouldn't run.
 
Why dont you hook a datalogger to it and read what is going on. It could be a bad maf signal.. You could be getting no front o2 sensor signal, your fuel trims could be way off. If you went with a logger it would help you alot...
 
Why dont you hook a datalogger to it and read what is going on. It could be a bad maf signal.. You could be getting no front o2 sensor signal, your fuel trims could be way off. If you went with a logger it would help you alot...

Yes that would help, even though you don't have any CEL codes being thrown, you can at least check the MAS signal to see if it's on, ect, ect.....
 
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