Need help with last bits of my car 2g eclipse

[TurboMeUP]

hey guys, I bought a 1g/2g mix breed car. basically every other part on it is 1g .. i bought the thing not running with ALL 16 valves bent . I just have a FEW questions id like somebody with experience to answer.

first of all, the car wasn't even close to running i bought a second car for parts and used the engine and tranny from my parts car and got the head off my car completely redone. i got it to fire up after about a month of tedious work and very ghetto driveway engine pulls.

my problems right now are..

my car has a nice set of forged pistons. i never botherd looking up the brand but when i pulled the engine i saw them. i put the head on. got everything set up all nice like. (my car has a 7 bolt if thats important) , anyways

1) I got the head completely rebuilt, LITERALLY put 1.2 miles on it driving it around the block for a few tests. and one day my head just sounded really noisy.. so i went to mess with the cam angle sensor .. finally i got the car to a nice sound where it didn't make noises this is where my problem occured. i finally got it running (what sounded) right.. and i gave it a rev.. still sounded fine .. sat there for a second.... and ofcourse, my timing belt broke. being that my car wasn't in motion most people say that theres a small chance of my pistons cracking, but my real question is what are the chances of me having to get my head RE-REBUILT because all my valves were no so i feel like they had a bigger chance of making it through the belt cracking? but i don't know for sure, like i said, MY CAR WAS IDLING WHEN IT SNAPPED, i didn't hear any loud noises when it snapped it just kinda flopped off... the only moving my car has done since it snapped is : we hooked it up to the back of a suv and pulled it on top of a trailer with a tow rope and then rolled it again into a parking spot at the mechanics, but he won't be able to look at it till next week so i'm looking ahead of time at about what i am going to spend. HAS 1G CAM ANGLE SENSOR IF THAT MATTERS


2) my second problem , I don't believe its as major but still annoying, when i turn my car on. i it runs fine no problems at idle. (before belt ofcourse) didn't do much driving because i didnt have time to e check it before 30 days expired and i wanted to repair everything before going to e check , like i said head has 1.2 miles although , when car was sitting at an idle and i revved it past like 4k rpm the car would just drop to 0 rpm and die. with ABSOLUTELY NO HESITATION like im talking 4 to 0 in like half a second, HOWEVER when it was dropping before it hit 0 if i touched the gas it would actually go back up to around a 1k idle instead of dieing


EDIT : ALSO SOMETIMES CAR HESITATED WHEN GASSING IT.. AFTER I SWITCHED MY TURBO PIPING don't really remember noticing but also only ran for about a day before belt snapped so not sure if i made it go away or if i just don't remember it happening anymore.




3) I'm clueless about this stupid maf translator on the car. it has that stupid box with the dials in it and Im sure i could tune it if i tried but my problem is i have no clue where the maf itself goes.. I have it positioned right off my turbo right infront of my cold air intake, if this is right somebody tell me? if it's wrong tell me where it goes


my car ---> 1999 eclipse GS-T Spyder 2.0L



like i said, i bought this car before it could almost turn over. i feel like the journey is almost over, atleast i hope it is.

 

[boost97gst]

Whew.... you DO have a lot on your plate dont ya?
Ok, as far as going up to 4k then dieing im gonnna say MAF or that maf-t. Not familiar with them, theyre dumb IMO.**Edit** get a 1g maf or get a stock 2g maf and roll with it. You can do that while you address problem #2----

The head. Ok most likely what happened is some valves got touched. They bent. Your pistons however, i would wager that they are ok. Why? Cause it was at idle. They have less inertia behind them. Simple way to test if your valves are bent: Without timing belt on its a little tougher, actually its going to be rough... hmmmmmm

You have to get each cylinder at TDC compression stroke and make sure your valves are closed for that cylinder. Problem is, , that when youre turning the crank you might very well damage a valve that wasnt hurt to begin with cause the cams are not moving. I take it back, too tricky and too much risk.
Just pull the head bud, i know it sucks. Take it to a shop, have them check the valves or if you can see some that are bent just order a new set and THEN take in to machinist. I would not reuse HG either, just get a new one. Head studs should be reuseable though.

Best of luck

Edit: Remove the cams. Then perform a leak down test. You should see around 5% past the rings. If you hear air coming out of the intake/exhaust then you can tell which valves on what cylinders are bent. Dont know why i didnt think of that before..... Its early and i slept like shit again. My bad. Just pull the cams,leakdown test($40 at harbor freight).

 

[crash89]

Or he could get another timing belt and perform a compression test. Then if that fails the head has to come off.

 

[boost97gst]

True, but which is easier/faster? I cant say for sure, never done a tbelt with engine in the car. But pulling the cams seems really easy

 

[TurboMeUP]

thanks for the advice guys. my problem right now is i don't have the car its actually at the shop right now because i didn't have a compression gauge and they're only charing me 50$ to check the head so i'm not too upset about it.. im just terrified about my pistons haha i didn't know if me pushing the car up on a trailer would have hurt the valves .. right now my biggest problem is trying to correctly find out the positiont where the gm maf is supposed to go its self because i can't find a actual guide that shows where its suppsoed to be , ill upload a pic of what i have going on

 

[boost97gst]

They should be able to use a probe type camera to look down and do a visual inspection of the tops of the pistons. If thats ok, then most likely your pistons are fine. You have a 2g ecu? Just google 2g gm maf install. Im sure you'll get a million hits, plenty of useful info

 

[TurboMeUP]

this is what I have going on right now manifold to right side of intercooler left side to turbo maf in front of cai of the turbos turbine (talking left and right as if i was in car)

and,


I don't even know to be honest with you. I have a ecu that came with my actual car but it wasn't an original for the car. i figured the guy just grabbed a random ecu n shoved it in there ( he was super ghetto) so i ditched it. i still have it but the ecu i'm running right now is out of my parts car which is a 95 gst convertible . i just found out that there's a difference and that there's "Eprom" ecu's yesterday and that they usually come in 95s. so that's what i'm thinking i probably like 90% chance have .. ill check for sure when i get my car back.. just kinda sucks that they won't even be able to touch my car till like Wednesday due to being so busy

 

[Kod]

Just IMO never re use head bolts or head gaskets even if new. Once hot never the same when re using.

 

[synthetek]

The GM maf should be after the bov and if your using a 95 ECU in a 99 you will need to swap the spark plug wires and switch injector wires because of the inverted cas signal.

 

[boost97gst]

Look for an "E" bottom right corner of ecu sticker. To make sure pop it open and itll be obvious. I picked up a 95 awd donor car a few weeks ago. Lucky me: EEPROM ecu. I socketed it right away. Now its worth $150 or keep it for a spare.. Cant hurt to have a spare eeprom ecu especially if you dont need the money. Injector drivers and other random stuff can fail and it makes troubleshooting so much easier. With dsmlink, when you get it, you wont have to worry about swapping wires and stuff. Maybe plug wires but not injector wires. Theres an option you can click to enable a non 95-96 cas signal on a 95 ecu. Then all you have to do is change plug wiring from 4123 to 3214. Simple.

 

[turbo98eclipse]

Why dont you just look at the sticker on the ECU and search the model number on it?

Also is your WG connected straight to the compressor housing? Or is there a boost controller in line?

Also, for the hesitation, do a boost leak test. That should solve a number of issues you have/may have soon

 

[TurboMeUP]

The GM maf should be after the bov and if your using a 95 ECU in a 99 you will need to swap the spark plug wires and switch injector wires because of the inverted cas signal.

thank you for the maf advice.

i had a gauge was told to take it off, so wg straight to turbo

 

[arabeclipse]

The GM maf is perfectly fine there but you can NOT vent your bov this way. So recirculate that bov if it's not already.

 

[TurboMeUP]

The GM maf is perfectly fine there but you can NOT vent your bov this way. So recirculate that bov if it's not already.

would i be fine just locating it after the bov and not recirculating?

 

[LandoAWD]

Post #9...

 

[arabeclipse]

Post #9...

There's a thread here explaining two methods of MAF placement. Draw through, and blow through.

OP has it in draw through position. Which is fine. Just needs to recirculate bov.

would i be fine just locating it after the bov and not recirculating?

Yea you can do that. That's my current set up. Use the translator to tune.

 

[LandoAWD]

Err, OK? Post #2 answers the question he was asking in the first 4 words, in any case.